Impreza WRX wrote:Sorry to necro, but the pics are not working!
x2
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
Well the post is more than 2 years old, and they were hosted on Imageshack...
when i get home tonight, i'll see if i still have the pics and upload them again.
Neutiquam erro.
So... is tonight already passed or what?
(the pics would really help
)
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
pics frank! we want pics!
Just used this procedure to replaced my driver's side..can take pics if you guys want, for the passenger's side. I need to get a new rim before I do it though, had to get a lug stud torched off.
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I gotta say, whoever was workin your torches needs some practice....
Pics are always helpful...you know....incase someone actually searches for these things
frank sent me the pics. i'll get around to loading them up sometime.....
Actually that is the biggest waste of time!!!!! You dont even need to remove the wheel bearing. Get a grinder, and grind down about 3/16" off the front of the steering knuckle and slide the bolt in thru the back of the bearing. Took me about 20 minutes start to finish!
BOO YA!
Wow, you J body guys are special.
1. you dont have to use a C clamp to seat the new stud in
2.you should never just "put on a wheel and tighten it up to seat the stud", that causes stretching of the stud.
3. 2 simple washers and a little grease if you have it around the stud and tighten it up, that way you arent stretching the stud, you're pulling it through the back with rotational force instead of pulling it in with force from the front which is what causes stretch.
4. Unless you are doing something wrong you will never have to replace studs, cross threading and overtightening is what breaks them. If you guys are out there tightening wheels without using a torque wrench then its no wonder you're snapping these things left and right.
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also i have found that the z24 lugnuts with the chrome are way easier to work with and the studs dont get corroded on the ends like the standard lugnuts do. my 2 cents.
you sir, just provided me pix on how to change my wheel bearing.
2006 Honda Civic EX Sedan AT-Galaxy Grey Metallic Pearl, 37,000 miles,Loaded with everything except Leather and Nav, Tint-5% rear, 20% front, Calipers painted Subaru WR Blue, Ipod Integration, XenonDepot 4300K HID Conversion kit, Debadged, Optima Red-Top, No performance mods because its an auto, and its under warranty.
I dunno how, but today I found out the noise I was hearing WAS NOT a wheel bearing, but 2 broken studs rolling around behind the plastic center cap (GT Rims)... AND the other three lugs were loose. I did the brakes on all four corners and torqued them down with my torque wrench to 100ft-lbs So I have NO idea how this happened. I looked in the holes where the stud broke, and I saw threads, like the studs are threaded in, is this possible?? It came to a shock to me cause I've always known them to be pressed in, like the pictures provided. Have you guys figured out why some cars can fit the stud in without loosening the wheel bearing? Did you have problems getting the wheel bearing loose? I've seen mechanics swear left and right trying to get those suckers out.
ANywho.. gonna try and get them replaced... I'll try and give details on sneaking the stud in without loosening the wheel bearing.
cavmania wrote:Wow, you J body guys are special.
1. you dont have to use a C clamp to seat the new stud in
2.you should never just "put on a wheel and tighten it up to seat the stud", that causes stretching of the stud.
3. 2 simple washers and a little grease if you have it around the stud and tighten it up, that way you arent stretching the stud, you're pulling it through the back with rotational force instead of pulling it in with force from the front which is what causes stretch.
4. Unless you are doing something wrong you will never have to replace studs, cross threading and overtightening is what breaks them. If you guys are out there tightening wheels without using a torque wrench then its no wonder you're snapping these things left and right.
I just saw this and thought I could comment a little.
1. it never did say to use a c clamp to seat the stud, that was going to be for the caliper.
2. that is kinda the point of studs and lugnuts, they are designed to have some flex to them(the studs I mean), and that is part of the reason that they have specific torque requirements for specific applications.
at the specified torque the stud stretches just a little bit and this provides the clamping force. (would not see it stretch, very very small amount)
if they could not stretch a little, they would be too brittle and would just crack.
3. both methods are the very same, I would not use a good wheel, or even a nice lug nut, just something that is not damaged or dirty(the lug nut)
4. totally agree, torque should be 100 ft. lbs(for the j-body anyway), the lugs are designed for this torque, too much and the stud will stretch too much and will actually provide less clamping force as the stud will not be able to "un-stretch"(sorry can't think of the word I wanted to use there) as the stud would now be damaged.
as well using any type of anti-seize compounds or grease or oils on lug nuts are a big no-no as they will actually affect lug nut torque. lugs should be put on clean and dry(same with the studs).
I do however think a little anti-seize on the hub area is not a bad idea as the wheels can corrode onto the hub over a longer time period if not maintained, or in very bad conditions.
just my 2 cents
This is what I was thinking... no one ever said to use a c-clamp to insert the stud... some people just love flame wars i guess.
no luck in using an air hammer to knock out the broken studs (had everything together still, just tried it out at work)... so hopefully the trusty hammer works... and hopefully i have good aim!! LOL
Finally replaced the studs on my car. Just a note,, I don't see how people got the new studs in without loosening the wheel bearing, cause I didn't have the room, but I had no patience so I hammered them in to sneak them past the steering knuckle. So anyone doing this you have 2 options, loosen the wheelbearing to give you that 1/8" clearance, or grind a little bit off the steering knuckle (the right hand side, the curved part, just take a little off) you'll see what I mean, cause it ALMOST fits, so a very minimal amount of grinding will help. And for the people who constantly have stud issues, I suggest you grind the knuckle to make it easier the next time.
