The ''Help! Low Blower speeds don't work!'' post - Page 2 - Maintenance and Repair Forum
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i just spent a good 30 mins trying to get that damn screw out of the back by the firewall. I was getting extremely pissed off until i final got that son b*tch out of there. i'm deff not putting that screw back in there. the one in the front will be enough to hold that piece of crap resistor in there. i always wondered why my lowest two settings never seemed to do anything. hope this fixes it. i must say that was a real pain in the arse
Well I'm glad I read this, cause I am having the problem too...
I dont wanna tackle that screw though...
And I notice that it says to tighten the screws to an exact pressure...how important is that really?
This sticky is much appreciated.
After much hunting, I was able to even get my hands on one of these resistors- I had to go to about 5 different auto parts stores. The install was a pain. I also had problems with that back screw. I finally just said "F--K IT" and cut a hole in the insulation so that the wrench fit. It made it a lot easier to get back in as well.
I now have low fan speeds! Woo! I can hear my radio at a normal volume. Thanks JBO!
Now on to making the engine run smoother and quieter. Are the 2.2L engines always this noisy?
Performance may be affected by some surfaces.
if i buy a new blower motor...does it include the resistor or no?
This sticky rocks, I installed the resistor but I murdered the old one and ripped it up with the firewall screw still in it. Stupid design, but I installed the new one and just used the first screw and its working awesome now.
How many steps to heaven, Doc?
You can get the resistor from NAPA as well, their part number is ECHBR81...the GM part # is 52476725
It still cost me $36.41 +tax CDN at NAPA. But the dealer quoted me $45.00 CDN.
Awesome post man! Got it fixed today! Also posted some good info about an P0440 EVAP malfuction code i've been pulling for a while now!
Hi. I have a '99 cavalier. I have replaced the blower motor resistor. However the blower motor still only works intermittently, no matter what speed the switch is set to. I've looked around these forums a bit, which is what led me to change the resistor. Now I'm stumped. Some posts I've found are vague about this problem.
Some days the blower works, some days it doesn't. Tapping the blower compartment has no effect.
However, "jiggling" the connection at the female plug to the blower will get it working temporarily. I've tried tape to keep the wire to the plug in the position where the blower works the best, however that is only a temp fix.
Does this indicate that the blower motor itself is going bad, or just the connection to it?
I haven't replaced the blower motor resistor in my car yet, but I did take out once already when I was checking out everything to see why my air only worked on full blast. It only took me about ten minutes to take out everything under my dash to get to it. When I got to that screw up against the firewell, all I did was pull back the carpet and cut a square section of the padding (just as big as the head of my smallest rachet I could find) and I was able to get it out with no problem. Afterwards, I just put the piece back in it's place and put the carpet back.
Ok. Just a follow-up on my little motor blower problem. I bit the bullet and went and bought a new motor blower. For the sake of being done with it, I paid retail. If I would have been a little more patient, I probably could have gotten a good used one at the boneyard for a lot less than 30-50 bucks.
Blower motor works now, without having to jiggle the connection wire. Only time will tell.
i had this problem and put a good coating of grease on the contacts before i put the resistor back in. it will help with the corrosion
14.82 @ 97 mph
Will be replacing this part soon, turns out I can get the resistor for $22 through the dealer...
it shouldn't be too hard I'm thinking...
I am not mechanically inclined at all and it took me 45 mins with a 10 minute break to find a flash light. All you need is a 7/32" socket 1/4" drive and a universal. I got the blower motor off no problem and I was like well that back screw wasn't too hard, then I realized it was the back screw on the resistor LOL. The tip to the back screw is to just push against the black plastic stuff it will flex and you can get the socket right onto the screw.
I just picked up my resistor today at the local GM dealer for $23...
I think I'm going to attempt it soon...
Well I just finished...
Took me maybe an hour?
How many of you put the back screw back in? The dealer I bought it from said that they don't even put it back in when they replace them cause it's such a pita.
So I didn't do it, I don't see how it could hurt...
Blower speeds 1,2 and 3 dead; only works on high.
Picked up a resistor at Surgenors in Ottawa for $30 cdn.
I just changed the resistor on my heater blower last night; I have a 1/4 inch drive with a flex joint and altough that back screw was a litlle awkward I got it out in approx 5 mins, it went back in without problem(socket size 5.5mm or 7/32 will work fine), I used a metal bar and pushed the fire wall back about an inch; this made it a little easier to get at this last screw.
I must say that removing the seat was the best advice I ever got, I have a compressed air ratchet drive, so it took all of one minute to remove . I had never removed a seat before and had you not mentionned it ,I would have never even dream't of it.
Anyway, I change the resistor and every speed is perfect now.
This Web site was unbelievably helpful. Thank you all for the great input/advice
I now have to replace a lower driver door hinge, any suggestions.
You removed the seat for that?
I don't know if that would have been worth it in my case, it would have been nice to lay down like that but I don't think I would have removed the seat...
Do I have to disconnect the negative battery terminal? The bolt is stripped and I cant get it off.
high amperage sparts are not fun. The negative thing is a safety proceadure. You can remove the positive as well to get the same effect, but be very carefull not to touch any mettal with the wrench while doing it or you could have a exploding battery on you hands.
this sticky is awesome!! my 1st 2 speeds decided they werent going to work on me yesterday ( of course when the humidity where i live is at 100
and i knew that someone else would have posted this before me!! this is why i love jbody.org. so much useful information..
by the way.. i see that it costs from the dealership around $30 to replace the resistor, but doesnt anyone know if it is covered under the extended warranty that you can purchased for up to 72,00 miles? i have the extra warranty and i havent had the chance to call and see if i can get this part for free!
I did this replacement over the weekend. Autozone had the resistor for 12.50 That rear one screw sucks. I wound up using the dremel tool on the back bolt and said its not going back in. I have all 4 speeds now. IMHO I believe all automotive engineers should be mechanics before being allowed to work for a car manufacturer.
You guys freakin' rock. I've been bad and haven't been on this site in about 6 months. As soon as I have a problem I come on board and there is a sticky for it. Awesome. That back bolt sounds like alot of fun so it's time to fire up the Poulan!
The end result of arson.......
Its true that we dont know what we've got until we lose it, but its also true that we dont know what we've been missing until it arrives.
im getting my fixed from my gm dealer; mainly because its still under my warranty and its free! but the only thing that is goin to suck is that they have to disconnect the battery.. which means i have to get the guy who installed my system to re-adjust everything with my headunit.. and i have to remeber to turn off my alarm so that doesnt get f*-up again...
Wow i didnt know that this was such a common problem but now that i know it can be fixed ill do it tomarrow!! I thought that i would just always have to use the full blast i didnt know that i could get the lower levels to work again! YES!! Thanks
~His Only Babygirl~
Great info. Looked in my haynes manual at the circuit and figured out what was wrong. Looked on here and found how easy it was to replace. Bought a carb adjuster tool to get the bolt out by the firwall. Had it fixed in under an hour. Thanks for the info!
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