mk well if all goes according to plan i should have an intake by the end of next week
A few points from people posting..
-Adding a capacitor to a stereo system apparently doesn't do all that much, according to the car audio gurus on here. I am thinking about adding a small 12V ATV battery in the rear of my car, for the amps. Should be a lot better than a capacitor.
-I used hot melt glue to fill the screw hole on the #1 port, because I got rid of that little plastic bump too. That port in particular needed th most work, I think, seemed kind of small.
-Basically, start on the end of the port, to match your head ports, and work your way in, blending with what you can't reach inside the manifold, so that everything is smooth, and there are no ridges. I didn't use a flap wheel on mine, it seemed fairly smooth as is, but maybe I'll quickly do it when I swap my cylinder head in the next little while.
-As for behind the throttle body, it's a bit difficult to explain without pics, maybe I'll take one when I am doing my head swap. Basically, I removed about 1-2mm from the initial tube, which isn't much, but the major restriction is underneath that, where it goes into the actual plenum inside the manifold. I ground out all the plastic ribbing that was intruding on the airflow, there's a lot in there that's totally unnecessary! It helps to have a long shaft carbide cutter to do this! Just be careful not to cut into the ports. I also have a GM V8 throttle body coming in the mail. The sensors look compatible, so I am going to try and make it work. I'll keep you guys posted on that.
04firetec wrote:-I used hot melt glue to fill the screw hole on the #1 port, because I got rid of that little plastic bump too. That port in particular needed th most work, I think, seemed kind of small.
and what are you going to do when your engine gets hot and re-melts the glue?
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
double bubble should work
or some epon 8802
im on this as soon as i get a spare manifold. and thanks for the warning about the thin area near the screw hole...nice to know these things before you start. i think ill go careful around there...i dont want to use any epoxy or filler...will always have this small worry about a chunk coming off and getting in the engine.
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i have a spare manifold at my house that i am not using
you have to stand for something, or you're bound to fall for anything
04firetec wrote:Check out this pic, a bit blurry because my $100 digicam doesn't take close up pics too well, even with the macro setting on. All I did was match the manifold to intake ports on my ecotec project head. I barely removed anything from the intake port side(head), maybe 1mm all around, not even. To match it from the manifold side, I took off about 6mm of material off the diameter all around! On the left is the "fixed" port, on the right is the stock craaaaap....
That's hella restrictive! Speaking of restrictive, don't get me started on the other end of the intake manifold, where the throttle body mounts. Needless to say, I fixed all the obstructions, and optimized the flow from that side also. I didn't get a chance to take a picture from that end, but any of you ecotec guys can pull off your throttle body and see what I'm talking about there.
I modestly estimate that I picked up at least 5whp, probably significantly more than that, from about 4000-6000rpm, seems to really haul ass once it gets up there now, with no detriment to low end. I'll be dyno testing my car again, once I get my p&p o/s valve project head on, and do something with the stock throttle body. Oh, and custom full mandrel 2.5" exhaust back from my soon to be installed Arospeed 4-2-1 header. I also am looking at getting a Fidanza flywheel, and a PCM reflash. That should all go nice with my AEM CAI, LZM cams, and Carcustoms pulley..
While I had the intake manifold off, I put a 8guage wire in between the starter and alternator(which has a 8guage already to the battery), because there's only a spindly 14 guage wire to the alternator, which is pretty bad. I'll put a 4guage directly between the battery and alternator, once I add a stereo.
small question...
that runner thickness that was there, usually is there to retain low end punch. in removing it, you prob gained top end, but lost low end. also did you port the entire runner.
reason i ask is because during air flow, its like a bullet shot out a gun chamber. you take the same amount of air or sized bullet and try and shoot it out of a larger gun or runner, the velocity is lost, which is a prime key in overall power gain.
might be cool to get a stock manifold and measure both up against each other for real testing before just guesstimates. many have guesstimated 10-15hp gains and really only gained a total of 3 when measured.
its event!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! holy mother of god
/me gets down and prays
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
QBE (The Boosted One) wrote:its event!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! holy mother of god
/me gets down and prays
agreed " gets down as well"
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
stand... everyone is an equal among each other
Like it said in the inital post, I matched the ports on the manifold to the intake ports on the head. I blended the diameter to the stock diameter at the curve in the runners, where you can no longer reach by conventional means. It definitely made a difference, if only to get rid of the abrupt widening of the port diameter once the air enters the cylinder head. This isn't the only thing I did to the manifold. If you take a look underneath where the throttle body mounts, there's a huge opportunity for flow improvement there. It's a bit difficult to explain exactly what I mean without showing you, but let's just say it has to do with "intrusive" and "ribs"..
Dam-it Muffins (Event) wrote:stand... everyone is an equal among each other
spoken like a true hero
you
sorry to post jack... hoping it works well for
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
QBE (The Boosted One) wrote:its event!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! holy mother of god
YIPPY&@&!!!!
now he can put nooooobs in their place again, i'm sure hes tired of it, but i missed reading your posts
My Cavillac
04firetec wrote:Like it said in the inital post, I matched the ports on the manifold to the intake ports on the head. I blended the diameter to the stock diameter at the curve in the runners, where you can no longer reach by conventional means. It definitely made a difference, if only to get rid of the abrupt widening of the port diameter once the air enters the cylinder head. This isn't the only thing I did to the manifold. If you take a look underneath where the throttle body mounts, there's a huge opportunity for flow improvement there. It's a bit difficult to explain exactly what I mean without showing you, but let's just say it has to do with "intrusive" and "ribs"..
only thing is, the abrupt widening creates a wall against the manifold for the intake to pulse against. similar to how the exhaust is.
its helpful on some vehicles to keep low down punch for those that need it. since the valve is not open all the time, air stops. thats all i meant by the gun analogy how velocity is achieved or lost.
air expaning gradually slows it down. but in stock form the velocity is high, then it "shoots" into the intake runner.
not sure how much a difference it feels like cause the runners are still the same size. to get more air in there an increase of the runners, not just what you can see would be necessary. you only flow as much as your smallest point in the runners, and since the full intake manifold runners werent modded, youre technically still flowing the same cfm. extrude honing is one way to try and achieve full runner widening.
just some ideas
to the dumbass that indicated that it is pointless to use a BIG wire to the stereo system, when the alternator wire is small... you dont know what your talking about.
*BS
The alternator produces current to feed the battery. The battery feeds the stereo system. The alternator does NOT feed the stereo system. Unless the cav is wired differently then all other cars i have seen.
I can draw more current from my battery then my alternator puts out.... correct? THUS i still need a wire that is sized correct for that current. After time... it could possible burn out my alternator from the stereo sucking more current then i am producing.
And for the record... I went to college... i am educated on this topic.
if you got a booming system, get a safe sized wire...REGARDLESS of the size of wire the alternator feeds your battery. Dont listen to this dumbass.
The alternator wire from your battery, is sized to handle the amount of current your alternator PRODUCES. So there is no need to upgrade the size of it. The alternator is sized to produce XXXX amps @ XXXXRPM ... simple as that.... it wont really hurt anything from upgradeing to a bigger wire... unless you go WAY to big. Its not like adding a bigger wire is gonna MAGICALLY produce more current.
man there are some stupid tools on here.
Your CAI from AEM is made 9HP ... maybe compunded with other mods, but the intake itself must pretty dam impressive if it makes that kind of horsepower. I have never heard anyone else brag such a gain from an intake before. Unless the intake was a turbo
i was always told that the alt powers the car after its started... the battery is just there to get it started.
event?
Check Out my Car Domain Page
well, i was going to answer your question, but seeing as you think event is the only one who knows @!#$ around here, i'll leave you be.
event is not god people, wake the @!#$ up.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
See... i can argue that fact...
There is no way for the battery to suddenly stop discharging into the powersystem because the alternator is turning. That would require an effort to make such a circuit. Which, i doubt our cars have. I would have to say that either/or is powering the system at different momments...depending on what is going on.
The alternator, alternates...thus produces AC power... car runs on DC... once the alternator AC is "switched over" (avoiding using technical terms
) to DC ... the battery and the alternator are paralleled together into the system. With that said... the alternator is feeding the battery, and feeding the rest of the car. THUS, by saying "the alt powers the car after its started... the battery is just there to get it started" is true... BUT if you have a massive stereo...and it draws more then the alternator is putting out, the battery is gonna feed the stereo. THUS, you gotta size the wire going to the stereo correctly.
so..
Quote:
The alternator produces current to feed the battery. The battery feeds the stereo system. The alternator does NOT feed the stereo system. Unless the cav is wired differently then all other cars i have seen.
is false...
sorry viper just glad to see he is back.
Check Out my Car Domain Page
it can go back in forth with a massive stereo system.
Viper 98912 is correct. If Event took some form of power systems engineering.... lets hear his input
if the alt is charging the battery then why would it pull from the battery and not the alt obviously the alt is putting out more power... the alt runs all electronic on the car after its started. if the battery did it then the car would completly die after two blocks down the road...
Check Out my Car Domain Page
here is a link for the epoxy that i used 
