i need the torque spec for the arp main and head stud kit for a 2.4L 97.
thanx

question; did you get the main caps align honed with the new ARP studs? If not, I would probably do that first. Then, I believe its factory torque specs and sequences to tighten them.

first time i hear about this......
i dont think its the factory torque.

if it wasn't the factory torque, why would it be higher? If you over torque it you are putting extra pressure on the main bearings that don't really need to be there.

also, IIRC, ARP bolts are all wet torqued I believe. Which means you need the ARP moly based assembly lubricant.

main and head studs/bolts should be installed using measured bolt stretch, not a torque wrench. ARP recommends this with all of thier products... including thier ARP 2000 rod bolts.

definitely do not tighten them to factory specs.the reason bolt stretch is used with factory bolts are because the head and main bolts are torque tyieldld and are designed to stretch when they artorqueded. however arp bolts are not made to stretch so if you used factory torque specs it would be way off. i got arp main studs and they came with a torque spec in the box. i don't recall the spec right now. i will see if i can find it. if you are using arp main studs you really should measure and plastigauge the main and rod journals before you final installation. you may have to have i align bored.

true, but it'd probably be a good idea to get the block align honed anyway. In terms of torque, I never got any sort of torque specs with my arp bolts.

what would come into play as well is what torque setting the machine shop used when they align honed

just reading the ARP website, and all it really talks about is rod bolt torque/stretch.

I guess you'll have to ask someone who's got them on their engine, as there isn't anything on ARP's site that states what torque to use.

i ended up calling arp and they told me to torque to 70ft-lbs.
also on their web site, it says:
"The friction factor changes from one application to the next. That is, the friction is at its highest value when the fastener is first tightened. Each additional time the fastener is torqued and loosened, this value gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. Therefore, new fasteners should be tightened and loosened through several cycles before applying final torque. The number of times depends on the lubricant. For all situations where ARP lubricants are used, five cycles are required before final torquing."

so i torque 5 times before final torque.

Get the specs from them, and rods are already streched when you get them from Eagle or something like that. Depends what rods you are using. At least mine were.
I did my head to 70 in a 2 staep a 35 and then a 70.
Torque to yeild would be way off, don't do that.
Listen to ARP and don't forget to use their moly.
Good luck



Best time:"""11.946""" @ 114.73 mph @17psi 1.83--60"
11 second daily driver!!!!
Race Related 727-561-9440
Shop of choice for your 11 second J body!

Also, built bottom end and or top end LSJ and L61's available.
13's ----12's ----11's ----10's