They are a decent header and can be had on ebay for around $200. The only problem i have heard with them is people have had wrapeds flanges. I do plan on running one in a few months.
I got mine off of ebay found a killer deal got it for $150 shipped brand new, heres the deal.
flange that goes on to the head, very very slightly warped riased in the middle straight otherwise the thick gasket it came with along tightening down the bolts, (not too tight, but just puttin them on tightening the middle ones first and working my way to the outside,)
seems to fix any problem havent had any leaks from there yet, been a few weeks on now.
4-2 flanges on both pieces were warped to hell, got out a grinder and a file and just started gringing and then filing looking for the high spots and grinding down some more. after quite a bit of the, (and the flanges are very thick) I managed to close most of the gap, not enough to run it metal to metal though as there would have been a leak. Used a ton of copper rtv on either side of the gasket and blue locktite on the bolts and tightened the hell out of them, ,
I actually put the 4 tube and 2 tube part together before putting it in the car had to take all the mounts off, move the computer, grind off a screw on the firewall a little and bend the metal the weatherstrip goes on up so it would go in, but it WILL go in like this, but not with the final small piece attached, just the first two bigger pieces anyways...
I wanted to see if this would work that way if I do get a leak in the 4-2 flanges, I can take it out and have it tig welded up, you could just to that from the get go if you have easy access to a welder for stainless steel, but i do not.
the small flange where it goes from 1-1 after the flex pipe was also warped but the edges were were the gap was so tightening the bolts down pretty much closed it up again used a lot of copper rtv on both sides of the gasket and blue locktite on the bolts.
Header definately adds performance and I am still waiting on my 2.5 cat to get here, the only place i have a leak is where i ghetto-rigged the header to the stock cat until my new one gets in, I am sure the stock cat is still limiting some of my gains and the leak is causing me to throw a code since the second o2 sensor is so far down and close to the leak.
also some of the nuts on the head studs are VERY hard to tighten down and you will not be able to get a torque wrench on there or even a wratchet just good ol wrenches.
I saved a lot of money by going with this header but it cost me a lot of work / busted knuckles, and some of the most colorful language ever to come out of my mouth.
IF I have to do it again it will be so much easier because I know exactly what nees to be done and where when you are figuring something out for the first time its tough, alsoI wanted to be able to put the header in with the 2 pieces attached if I ever need to weld it someday this made it much more difficult, I have heard that some people get flanges that are not warped, it pretty hit or miss with this so if you do get one just be prepared for a lot of extra work cause there is a good chance to will get it.
i would say that if youcan get a good deal on one and have access to a shop / lift / jacks / grinding tools / files, and a good amount of mechanical experience, and creativity, go for it! if not, better find one that wont cause as many problems during install.
sorry for the long post just wanted you to be clear on what you would be getting into if you bought it.
Yes the flanges are somewhat warped, not horrible. The header will turn gold in 2 minutes also.
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Will Paulman wrote:I got mine off of ebay found a killer deal got it for $150 shipped brand new, heres the deal.
flange that goes on to the head, very very slightly warped riased in the middle straight otherwise the thick gasket it came with along tightening down the bolts, (not too tight, but just puttin them on tightening the middle ones first and working my way to the outside,)
seems to fix any problem havent had any leaks from there yet, been a few weeks on now.
4-2 flanges on both pieces were warped to hell, got out a grinder and a file and just started gringing and then filing looking for the high spots and grinding down some more. after quite a bit of the, (and the flanges are very thick) I managed to close most of the gap, not enough to run it metal to metal though as there would have been a leak. Used a ton of copper rtv on either side of the gasket and blue locktite on the bolts and tightened the hell out of them, ,
I actually put the 4 tube and 2 tube part together before putting it in the car had to take all the mounts off, move the computer, grind off a screw on the firewall a little and bend the metal the weatherstrip goes on up so it would go in, but it WILL go in like this, but not with the final small piece attached, just the first two bigger pieces anyways...
I wanted to see if this would work that way if I do get a leak in the 4-2 flanges, I can take it out and have it tig welded up, you could just to that from the get go if you have easy access to a welder for stainless steel, but i do not.
the small flange where it goes from 1-1 after the flex pipe was also warped but the edges were were the gap was so tightening the bolts down pretty much closed it up again used a lot of copper rtv on both sides of the gasket and blue locktite on the bolts.
Header definately adds performance and I am still waiting on my 2.5 cat to get here, the only place i have a leak is where i ghetto-rigged the header to the stock cat until my new one gets in, I am sure the stock cat is still limiting some of my gains and the leak is causing me to throw a code since the second o2 sensor is so far down and close to the leak.
also some of the nuts on the head studs are VERY hard to tighten down and you will not be able to get a torque wrench on there or even a wratchet just good ol wrenches.
I saved a lot of money by going with this header but it cost me a lot of work / busted knuckles, and some of the most colorful language ever to come out of my mouth.
IF I have to do it again it will be so much easier because I know exactly what nees to be done and where when you are figuring something out for the first time its tough, alsoI wanted to be able to put the header in with the 2 pieces attached if I ever need to weld it someday this made it much more difficult, I have heard that some people get flanges that are not warped, it pretty hit or miss with this so if you do get one just be prepared for a lot of extra work cause there is a good chance to will get it.
i would say that if youcan get a good deal on one and have access to a shop / lift / jacks / grinding tools / files, and a good amount of mechanical experience, and creativity, go for it! if not, better find one that wont cause as many problems during install.
sorry for the long post just wanted you to be clear on what you would be getting into if you bought it.
exactly...
i've had problems with middle gasket goin out a lot, so much that i can swap it out and a new one in in under 20 min, i would sugest making you own using mr. gasket ultra seal or if u have a car quest near by you can get 2 2" gaskets that have a metal ring and cut one a bit and it will fit and i can always grab em for u too. also its better if you use your stock header gasket than the ones it comes with the tend to burn up within minutes unless they have better ones now.
Kill list:03 eclipse, 06 GTO, 04 Mach 1 Mustang
I have the weapon R version of that same header, The middle gasket has been scrapped and no exhaust leaks....
Will Paulman wrote:I got mine off of ebay found a killer deal got it for $150 shipped brand new, heres the deal.
flange that goes on to the head, very very slightly warped riased in the middle straight otherwise the thick gasket it came with along tightening down the bolts, (not too tight, but just puttin them on tightening the middle ones first and working my way to the outside,)
seems to fix any problem havent had any leaks from there yet, been a few weeks on now.
4-2 flanges on both pieces were warped to hell, got out a grinder and a file and just started gringing and then filing looking for the high spots and grinding down some more. after quite a bit of the, (and the flanges are very thick) I managed to close most of the gap, not enough to run it metal to metal though as there would have been a leak. Used a ton of copper rtv on either side of the gasket and blue locktite on the bolts and tightened the hell out of them, ,
I actually put the 4 tube and 2 tube part together before putting it in the car had to take all the mounts off, move the computer, grind off a screw on the firewall a little and bend the metal the weatherstrip goes on up so it would go in, but it WILL go in like this, but not with the final small piece attached, just the first two bigger pieces anyways...
I wanted to see if this would work that way if I do get a leak in the 4-2 flanges, I can take it out and have it tig welded up, you could just to that from the get go if you have easy access to a welder for stainless steel, but i do not.
the small flange where it goes from 1-1 after the flex pipe was also warped but the edges were were the gap was so tightening the bolts down pretty much closed it up again used a lot of copper rtv on both sides of the gasket and blue locktite on the bolts.
Header definately adds performance and I am still waiting on my 2.5 cat to get here, the only place i have a leak is where i ghetto-rigged the header to the stock cat until my new one gets in, I am sure the stock cat is still limiting some of my gains and the leak is causing me to throw a code since the second o2 sensor is so far down and close to the leak.
also some of the nuts on the head studs are VERY hard to tighten down and you will not be able to get a torque wrench on there or even a wratchet just good ol wrenches.
I saved a lot of money by going with this header but it cost me a lot of work / busted knuckles, and some of the most colorful language ever to come out of my mouth.
IF I have to do it again it will be so much easier because I know exactly what nees to be done and where when you are figuring something out for the first time its tough, alsoI wanted to be able to put the header in with the 2 pieces attached if I ever need to weld it someday this made it much more difficult, I have heard that some people get flanges that are not warped, it pretty hit or miss with this so if you do get one just be prepared for a lot of extra work cause there is a good chance to will get it.
i would say that if youcan get a good deal on one and have access to a shop / lift / jacks / grinding tools / files, and a good amount of mechanical experience, and creativity, go for it! if not, better find one that wont cause as many problems during install.
sorry for the long post just wanted you to be clear on what you would be getting into if you bought it.
thank god i have access to all of that haha i will most likely be ordering them when i get the money, right now i need to fix an idle misfire
and i have no clue of why it is misfiring
all the gaskets that came with mine were metal on either side with some sort of material in between, but they seemed very thick and strong and have held up so far. not sure if they are different of not. But I think if I used the thin stock metal gasket where it went to the head I might get a leak, but I am not for sure,
there is a chance you wont have to do any of it, I just got unlucky and had some terribly warped flanges
