BuiltNBoosted is correct about royal purple coking turbos, AGP has tested and proved this point, royal purple has ruined many turbochargers.. Not worth the money to me!

Good to know about that time to change my oil!



http//www.umods.org/drift.html
umods@live.com/ddiaz@umods.org

DAMN it! I just got 5 quarts of Royal purple for my engine, its fine i guess cuz i don't have a turbocharger...I guess i'll be the test dummy..



Mods: Synapse Charge Piping, Short Throw, Bad-Mab Dp, Dejon Intake, BYT Tuned!
Parts For SALE! Pacesetter Header(ECO),17'in Resonator, Alternator, Starter, Viper Alarm.

i ran royal purple when i had a wrist pin tick.... ended up clogging the lifters and one exploded, nuking my exhaust cam and head.

It may be a true synthetic... but never again


Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, February 25, 2010 9:06 AM

.....Your kidding right? Has anybody tried this royal purple? My friend ran it in his 08 altima and it worked fine...Don't scare me like this...



Mods: Synapse Charge Piping, Short Throw, Bad-Mab Dp, Dejon Intake, BYT Tuned!
Parts For SALE! Pacesetter Header(ECO),17'in Resonator, Alternator, Starter, Viper Alarm.

rp is junk imo....

yeah rp is def junk in my book. atleast for high heat or forced induction.

....Damn it... i have 5 quarts of it sitting in my trunk...For my boosted app....So anybody want to to boost my spirits? LOL




Mods: Synapse Charge Piping, Short Throw, Bad-Mab Dp, Dejon Intake, BYT Tuned!
Parts For SALE! Pacesetter Header(ECO),17'in Resonator, Alternator, Starter, Viper Alarm.

Does anyone have anything to say about Castrol EDGE? That's what I've been using. Trying to think with my dipstick, Jimmy

mobil1 all the way. ran it for 2 years and something like 30k mi. in my old motor, and it will be run in the newer motor as well. the only regret i have is not using a heavier grade of mobil1 sooner. i started with 5w-30 which is like piss. moved on to 10w-30, which was a bit better. i was thinking about running RP in my next motor, but after reading this thread a while ago, which pretty much conviced me to stay with Mobil1.


Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Thursday, February 25, 2010 10:40 PM

I personally have nothing bad to say about Mobil1 10w30 as I to had some pretty good results. Personally, I have had better results (smoothest running) with Pennzoil Synthetic 10w30 and next Castrol Synthetic 10w30, Valvoline Synpower 10w30 . The worst was Royal Purple and only because it burned oil real quick about 3/4 qrt every 3000 miles. And my engine barely burns oil if any. And since I own a LD9, it it my priority to keep my oil topped of and changed every 3000K.
Needless to say, since I change my oil at 3K I went back with Pennzoil or Castrol or Valvoline or Mobil. Quite frankly, if you change the oil every 3000 miles Mobil-1, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Castrol will all be equally effective.

Taetsch Z-24 wrote:
Brad....... There is a certain 2.3 that has Mobil-1 in it..... I would strongly recommend sticking with it.

Just ask the kid that bought my 02 off of me... he did not listen to me when I said

Quote:

I contest that the only reason my stock LD9 lasted how it did was this

Did not listen to me... #3 rod though the block.

The oil in question that he did not head the warning was this




Out pours 5W30 conventional at 25 below zero.
Love the stuff.


Chris

This response had me chuckling.
For one, he switched off from Mobil-1 and #3 broke? Sounds to me like of low oil or not keeping up with it the maintenance. LOL the way you make it out to be is as if he put in Milk in there.

Secondly, 15w50 should not be used unless, your car drinks oil or your car is really heavily modified, or barely sees the street and spends mostly 90% of its life at the track.
Yhea, I know JBO knows more then the creator of the damn car, but for those who think a little more clearly, you may want to check what's your car's bible says.



When you shop for a oil look for this seal, and the latest API Service Level which I think we are at SM/CF. I will say this, when the oil has a higher level of Zinc/Phosperus the better it is for protection wear. Thats the main ingredient used in "Break-In oils." Today we don't use it so much on modern engines because they tolerate it better with less of it and for better emissions. 50 years ago Zinc was the thing to use. And there was thread with all the tests done and the type of additives in oils, and from what I remember Pennzoil was the best. Either way all synthetics are good, I would just avoid RP. This is the seal BTW.


Oh and if anyone wants those labels I got mine at SLP. I dunno if they are still there since I got mine in 2002.



>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----

yeah 15 and 20 W50 will also cause lifter failure sooner or later in an LD9

weard how it did not for 136K then right?

All I am posting are FACTS that I have SEEN.

Thats all.

Chris




'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

i used the 15-50 mobile in my stroker for quite a while...gave me a higher oil pressure reading at working temp compared to the 5 or 10w...

i have a question for you high performance guys... been wondering about this since i first read this thread..

You guys all claim royal purple (i only say claim because its just that, i dont doubt you for a second) ruins your turbos and blows up your valvetrain... how do they manage to sponsor all these race teams?
you say its bad for boost, yet they claim to run it in cars with blowers the size of my torso.. lol

like i said... im not questioning you guys... it just doesnt add up... maybe their commercial stuff is cheaper then what they give the teams?

Alright. I've been on BOBISTHEOILGUY for some time now, I am very familiar with the different motor oils. To the first part of your question... You probably won't notice any immediate difference. However, I firmly believe engines just "don't like" some oils. For example, the 4.6L SOHC in our expedition really doesn't like Castrol GTX 5W-20. It really likes Motorcraft Semi-syn 5W-20.

On the other hand, some people do see a big difference with syn. Sometimes, it can yield slightly better gas mileage. Don't believe people when they say that only Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Mobil 1 are "true" synthetics. What they mean is the base stocks used. Those mentioned are Group IV, or PAO (Poly-Alpha-Olefin) which are made in the lab. The others, Pennzoil Platinum, etc, are made of Group III, which is a highly, highly refined, hydro-cracked process petroleum based oil. While it's origin is crude, it is so refined that it can be considered synthetic.

Another thing to keep in mind, is that Group IV PAO is not inherently a good lubricant. Group III oils, are. Group VI depends on the additive pack for it's anti friction, anti wear properties. The additive pack makes up about 20% of the oil by volume, and includes mineral additives for anti wear, detergent/anti foam, and anti friction. You can find this out, by getting/finding a UOA/VOA (Used/Virgin Oil analysis) like the following.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1791158&page=1

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1512803#Post1512803

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1792752#Post1792752

You may notice a few things here. I will do my best to explain these.
Iron, Copper, Lead, Antimony, Titanium, Tin, Aluminum, and Chromium are all wear metals. Aluminum is most often from the piston, Iron/chromium are most often from the cylinder walls, crankshaft bearings and valvetrain, and the rest are primarily materials used in the big end, and other bearings.

Molybdenum, Boron, Zinc, Phosphorous are all anti-friction/anti-wear compounds. Phoshporous and Zinc are collectively referred to as ZDDP. For many years ZDDP has been the primary anti wear add, and still is. But with each new oil spec, (SG, SJ, SL, SM etc) the amount of ZDDP is decreased, because phosphorous when it burns, produces ash which plugs up the cat. Molybdenum, and Boron are fairly new, and both effectively "plate" contact surfaces to reduce friction and prevent wear.

Calcium, Boron (yes here too), Magnesium serve as detergent and anti foaming adds. They help clean the inside of the engine, and prevent the oil from foaming and oxidating as the engine is running. (The crankshaft and other parts can "whip" oil introducing air).

Note, that with synthetic oil, it is easier to extend your OCI. For example, many people on BITOG will run dino for 4,5K miles. With synthetic though, many will run anywhere from 5K to 8K... And with some oils (Mobil 1 EP, Amsoil, and a few others) they will run for 12K or more. Extending your oil change interval does nothing but save you money. As you can see from the following UOA, long oil changes do not eat your engine alive.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1765467&page=1


My advice to you then sir, is to run Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30, for 6,000 miles. This is what I am doing now. I am at 4,500 miles on this change. For extended OCI make sure you use a good, quality, solid oil filter. Stick with NAPA Gold, Purolatore PureONE, Mobil 1, K&N, etc. DO NOT use FRAM Extraguard (Orange can of death) or Toughgard. They are extremely poor in build quality and design. The anti-drainback valves do not seal properly, and for many, many people result in nasty dry start noise. They use cardboard endcaps in the filter, which are well known to fail and not seal with the center tube, allowing unfiltered oil to pass back into the engine. Also, FRAM EG use very, very little filter element, the number of pleats is the lowest of any filter on the market. For the same amount, or a little more, you can get a high quality Purolator or NAPA filter. Stay away from all FRAM except for the Exendedguard, which is a decent filter, but cost upwards of $11. If you, or anyone have any questions, be sure to ask I will be happy to answer them.

Here is some of the most popular 5W-30 synthetics compared.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1385944&page=1

Oh, yes and the myth that you cannot switch back to dino after running Synthetic is a complete and total fallacy.

Quote:

DO NOT use FRAM Extraguard (Orange can of death) or Toughgard.

this is so funny...you know , i said this EXACT same thing and listed the EXACT same reasons when i made this statement on clubcav about a year ago, and they bashed the hell out of me because" im not an oil engineer " .. they said they all prefered the fram filter because it had the black "grip" on the outside that made it easy to get on and off hahaha

fram filters suck...

really hard

scott (section8cav) wrote:

Quote:

DO NOT use FRAM Extraguard (Orange can of death) or Toughgard.

this is so funny...you know , i said this EXACT same thing and listed the EXACT same reasons when i made this statement on clubcav about a year ago, and they bashed the hell out of me because" im not an oil engineer " .. they said they all prefered the fram filter because it had the black "grip" on the outside that made it easy to get on and off hahaha

What's really funny is that the new Yellow Purolator PureONEs are COVERED all over in that grippy material. And the filter is a million times better. Whenver one of our cars goes to jiffy lube for whatever reason, I always pick up a filter from Walmart first. For the expedition and mustang that means a Motorcraft FL820S which is $3.50 from walmart, and is a Purolator made filter.

I've been a fan of the Royal Purple for years now.
The Cavy has it and the 'yota has it with no issues out of either of the cars.
I could also tell a difference in the cars once the Royal Purple was put in the car. It idled smoother and seemed to have a bit more pep to the car with easier roll ons than with the Mobil 1 I've been using for years too.

I change the oil every 10,000 miles with a 5K filter change to along with the oil changes.
Works fine so far with no complaints whatsoever.
The 'yota is driven daily to and from work and when I'm not driving the Cavy or the Porsche.
So the 'yota probably has the most miles on the car and still loves to rev happily to 7K+ when necessary.

When I go to boosting the Cavy with the supercharger, I'll probably go back to Mobil 1 because I know it's been a good oil over the years.
Until then, it's Purple time because for me, I'm a happy customer.


Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!

I found these interesting vids. Good stuff here.





>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----

I drive a silver car wrote:The new 100k+ Corvette ZR1 only takes Mobil 1 other wise you void your warranty.

WRONG, WRONG, and WRONG. It is not Mobil 1 only. It is an oil spec. Specifically, the GM 4718M spec. The current list of 4718M approved oils can be found HERE

Taetsch Z-24 wrote:syntec is the only other "synthetic" out there that is not a old Mobil One patent . Good oil.

Brad....... There is a certain 2.3 that has Mobil-1 in it..... I would strongly recommend sticking with it.

Just ask the kid that bought my 02 off of me... he did not listen to me when I said

Quote:

I contest that the only reason my stock LD9 lasted how it did was this

Did not listen to me... #3 rod though the block.

The oil in question that he did not head the warning was this




Out pours 5W30 conventional at 25 below zero.
Love the stuff.


Chris

Holy crap dude, you ran a 15W-50 and then were shocked when it grenaded? They spec 5W-30. I can't think of anything except big diesels, that spec oil that thick.