Discussions about performance modifications to j-body automobiles which do not involve any kind of forced induction or nitrous. Topics in any way related to turbo or supercharger should go in the Boost forum, and nitrous topics in the Nitrous Oxide forum.
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Kody LaGreca wrote:
Anyways, 2.25 or 2.5 for maximum HP/torque and complete combustion on an N/A 2200? And before it turns into a flamefest about which size is better, I'd like some proof.
Either way it's going to be slow lol but to answer your question, I've read and believe that 2.5" is overkill on an N/A 2200. Like I said before, I'm running 2.25" and I'd do it again
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Cruisin4DrCav wrote:
Kody LaGreca wrote:
Anyways, 2.25 or 2.5 for maximum HP/torque and complete combustion on an N/A 2200? And before it turns into a flamefest about which size is better, I'd like some proof.
Either way it's going to be slow lol but to answer your question, I've read and believe that 2.5" is overkill on an N/A 2200. Like I said before, I'm running 2.25" and I'd do it again i agree fully...
Im running 2.5 on my fully built N/A LD9 with no issues...
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Kody LaGreca wrote:
bradsk88 wrote:
It affects scavenging. Basically the air in a smaller pipe will pull harder on the exhaust ports creating extra power at low rpms but bottlenecking at high rpms. Air in a bigger pipe is under less pressure so it doesn't pull as hard, but you can move more air at high RPM.
Exhaust doesn't make power. It allows power.
I could see this being true if exhaust was pushed instead of pulled as you said it is.
Thanks for the link, binzer.
Actually exhaust is pushed AND pulled in a four-stroke engine. Look it up. It's interesting 
Quote:
Anyways, 2.25 or 2.5 for maximum HP/torque and complete combustion on an N/A 2200? And before it turns into a flamefest about which size is better, I'd like some proof.
No proof, just experience. Going from stock to 2.25 will let you produce more power above 4kRPM. 2.5 is overkill. Trucks use 2.5.
One thing to note though is that if you're just modding this car as a daily driver, upgrading your exhaust will make the car louder and kind of "feel" slower. Even if it's faster. Just because the noise created will be greater than the power gained.
Not a flame war. Just trying to keep you from making the same mistakes I did.
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bradsk88 wrote:
Kody LaGreca wrote:
bradsk88 wrote:
It affects scavenging. Basically the air in a smaller pipe will pull harder on the exhaust ports creating extra power at low rpms but bottlenecking at high rpms. Air in a bigger pipe is under less pressure so it doesn't pull as hard, but you can move more air at high RPM.
Exhaust doesn't make power. It allows power.
I could see this being true if exhaust was pushed instead of pulled as you said it is.
Thanks for the link, binzer.
Actually exhaust is pushed AND pulled in a four-stroke engine. Look it up. It's interesting
Quote:
Anyways, 2.25 or 2.5 for maximum HP/torque and complete combustion on an N/A 2200? And before it turns into a flamefest about which size is better, I'd like some proof.
No proof, just experience. Going from stock to 2.25 will let you produce more power above 4kRPM. 2.5 is overkill. Trucks use 2.5.
One thing to note though is that if you're just modding this car as a daily driver, upgrading your exhaust will make the car louder and kind of "feel" slower. Even if it's faster. Just because the noise created will be greater than the power gained.
Not a flame war. Just trying to keep you from making the same mistakes I did.
Much appreciated sir. And I have already experienced the slow effect with my intake lol. And I'm not too worried about that. It'll be better than my exhaust leak for sure lol. 2.25 it is. Now my next question is how big should my resonator be, and what kind of muffler do you guys suggest? I want a tame, deep sound that won't drone when I'm cruising, but is loud enough to point out I have a performance exhaust.
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Cruisin4DrCav wrote:
Dynomax Super Turbo or stock LSJ muffler - Mystic keeps recommending the LSJ so I'll take his word for it. I've got the Dynomax muffler and although it seems louder than when I first got it, it's got a nice mellow tone and I'd still recommend it.
As far as a resonator, you want the largest one you can fit. 24" would be a safe bet but for some reason I recall someone fitting a 30"
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Anyone know where I can get some cheap 2.25in stainless tubing? I can get 2.5in from Jegs but that doesn't help lol. And I'm not sure what gauge to get for the tubing. I thought 16 gauge was the sweet spot.
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i know where to get it, but its not cheap... Atomic Racing...
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What gauge do I want and should I just get aluminized? I'm finding tubing anywhere from 30 to 60 bucks for 4 feet of stainless 2.25in.
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anthony labreck wrote:
i'd go with the twin loop from OBX like I said.. It's real deep and almost quiet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3EKq3EbRNI&feature=related
I appreciate the input but I honestly think that's an unnecessary and poor design for a muffler. That's also a Honda lol. I'm probably going to go with the LSJ or a Magnaflow. There's a shop nearby that can mandrel bend pipe for me and weld it all up and everything, but I can't find cheap 2.25 16 gauge. I can find 13, 14, and 18.
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it was just a suggestion. In my opinion chambered mufflers sound like ass on 4 cylinders..to each his own.
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anthony labreck wrote:
it was just a suggestion. In my opinion chambered mufflers sound like ass on 4 cylinders..to each his own.
I appreciate your input.
Still can't find anyone selling 2.25 stainless that cheap.
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Just find a shop to supply it, problem solved
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Price of steel's gone up. Save your pennies.
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Philly D wrote:
http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com/servlet/the-Car-Exhaust-cln-Chevrolet-cln-95-dsh-05-Chevy-Cavalier/Categories
Stainless isnt needed. The normal aluminumized tubing will last longer then youll have the car, and youll save the cash.
This car is my DD and I live in upstate New York. They're pretty liberal with the salt on the roads in the winter and things tend to rot lol.
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I live in Vancouver BC Canada......we have salt to 
That being said they have a stainless option as well. |
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You may want to consider Aluminized Steel tubing, getting everything welded up right, and taking it to a powder coating shop for a 1300 degree ceramic coat... mine wasn't more than a couple hundred bucks and is protected from rust just as well if not better than Stainless... This may be an easier and possibly cheaper option.
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Lol, doing mad research.
As you can see, I found the perfect tubing from Amazon of all places lol.
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Does PaceSetter make both the 4-1 and 4-2-1 header? And if so, what's the model number of the 4-1? I wanna make sure I'm getting the right one and their website sucks on a mobile device lol.
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No...they simply make the one design.
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Due to recent monetary problems I think I'm just going to start with a catback, 2.25in aluminized.
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Upstate NY? RD Fabs is near Syracuse and should be able to build you a stainless steel system.
Error: Sig not found.
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There's a shop nearby with a mandrel bender that can do it for me.
That's a pretty long drive. It'd have to be a good deal on the exhaust system.
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