i have an 04 eco with automatic tranny i want to do an LE61 swap i found a block at a good price and thinking of doing this swap what do i need? what should i look out for? im going to start this as soon as i have all the correct info, i have the cash for the block and some extra for parts.....
any help would be appreciated thanks
I have the trigger wheel you need. 75 bucks shipped PM me
You basically need the block, external trigger wheel, fabricate a bracket to hold the ckp sensor at the wheel, and other than that, just the obvious things you need anytime assembling a motor (new flex plate bolts, new head bolts or studs, head gasket, any TTY bolts like crank pulley and cam gear bolts, etc)
The swap is pretty much straight forward...no different than dropping in a complete l61 other than throwing the trigger wheel on the crank pulley. You also need to trim the upper motor mount support just a bit due a casting difference on the le5...but you'll see what needs to be shaved as soon as you hold it up.
Look up Oldskool's old build thread, tons of pics and info
ok so external trigger wheel?
ckp sensor bracket is there anyway i can purchase one?
and i use the head gasket from the Le5 not the L61 right?
The bracket will need to be made. Its just a simple bracket.
List from Oldskool of things you will need
-Jbody L61 oil pan (usable off your current L61)
-Jbody L61 thermostat housing (usable off your current L61)
-NEW crank pulley bolt (torque to yield)
-Jbody L61 upper mount bracket (slightly modified to fit, you will see when you go to install it a small channel must be ground no biggie)
-LE5 head gasket (or any ecotec head gasket that has at least an 89mm bore) Options i've found are OEM MLS, Cometic MLS, and SCE copper
-NEW head bolts (also torque to yield) OR head studs
-about an 18" length of the braided CKP sensor wire - easy score at most junkyards
-a simple L-bracket to mount the sensor on the bottom-aft timing cover bolt
-At least one NEW cam gear bolt (torque to yield) unless you know how to time the engine w/o breaking one loose. I generally found that breaking one loose is the easiest way.
-LE5 timing chain tensioner - I'm not sure if this is universal, but it was a little different than my L61 tensioner, and since the actual tensioner arm comes from the LE5 I used the corresponding tensioner.
-Tuning is highly recommended
-30 lb/hr or greater injectors are highly recommended if tuning
*assuming you have an L61 head/components/valve cover
Also heres the thread to his LE61 build
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=457213&t=452080&p=1
NEW things do they really have to be new or can they be used but in good condition?
my car is tuned at the moment I was aldo intrrested in knowing can i use my a/c compressor on this setup?
Kris Cirlos wrote:NEW things do they really have to be new or can they be used but in good condition?
my car is tuned at the moment I was aldo intrrested in knowing can i use my a/c compressor on this setup?
You're asking common knowledge questions... give me $4000 and I'll do the swap for you.
Seeing whats happen to other LE61 swaps I'd say you Need a spare engine to put in after the swap blows up.
Yes, all the "new" bolts Luis listed are torque to yield bolts, which means they are one time use.
ok so new bolts then
$4,000? really?
and i have the spare engine im buying the used block and a new l61 head
why do these blow?
We've been leaning towards the cam selection as a possible cause. Ryan's first build seemed to be lasting, unfortunately the car got totaled and he parted out the motor. His second one blew up with stage 3 cams, those same cams went into phils motor which blew up (twice), then into my l61 (which also blew up).
Not saying it was definitely the cam choice, we have no factual evidence other than gut feeling...but my money is on those cams being cursed, lol.
I believe Luis is trying his LE61 with stock l61 cams, so we'll see how that goes
Personally I'd throw a LSJ head on, a few people have done so and have had success so far. Newt's le5/lsj seems to be holding together great.
im thinking of using stock cams too my only upgrades would just be the 2.4l mani the lsj injectors and colder plugs since i wanna spray a 50 wet shot and maybe a 75 once in a while amd well my current upgrades are intake header exhaist and tune and also thinking of getting a 3k converter
will it blow with these upgrdes? i wanted to buy the block already but then again im kinda unsure but i rather give it a try and see whats up than never try it at all
Go for it. You're grabbing an '06 or early '07 block, right? They're the only ones with a forged rotating assembly
im getting an 08 block but i didnt kno bout forged internals ill look for a 06 07 block
If you cant find one, I have a spare '06 rotating assembly I don't need, you could swap that into the block
EVILution (KGMs FrankenCav) wrote:Go for it. You're grabbing an '06 or early '07 block, right? They're the only ones with a forged rotating assembly
^^^ And that's MY theory as to why these keep blowing up. People are pushing them way too far and they are just about as fragile as a stock L61.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
What about the N/A one that went boom.
The only n/a that i can remember was ryan but it ran great until the car was totaled. Im not 100% sure if phils 2nd build was n/a, either way all the ones that went boom were running a stage 3 cam.
all the blocks ive found are 08+ im getting an L61 head and porting and polishing keeping stock cam and all the other internals since im just gunna be all motor and im thinking of spraying 50 wet shots and a 75 shot on track days will this setup hold up?? only mods will be le5 mani lsj injectors intake header and exhaust along with an hp tune
im just looking to see how much power these things can hold and what are some of the problems u guys have ran into
Far as I know,
I have the 'oldest' LE61. I am using Ben Wenzel's old stage 3 cams and its still running. Haven't had a chance to tune or drive it a whole lot though.
With L61 cams on the LE5 bottom end, the swap isnt worth it. Cams are absolutely necessary.
Pontiac Fiero powered by L61/LE5 Ecotec "Innovation is a new level of performance"
just saw this and thanks for the info i got an extra eco almost free with the purchase of an LE5 mani and lsj injectors and so im building that one i just sent it to get ported and polished and milled when thats done im going to start the block with forged pistons and rods then going to look for a nice turbo set up and when thats done ill swap it in
My first build - zzp spring snapped. My second build had the most miles on it with no problems, but the car was totalled. My third build in the next car - cams were the issue IMO. I don't think the factory lash adjusters are up to the task of high lift. In addition, I (stupidly) didn't check clearance of the L61 head and valves /LE5 block with comp stage 3's.
The same applies to Phil's builds with the comp stage 3's, as well as Matt's.
My advice, if you want to do this build and go for the minimum, use supertech 78 #'s and comp stage 1 cams or something equivalent. If you want to go all out, have a pro builder check the clearances with your bigger cams and judge if the rest of the valvetrain is up to it. The failures IMO really have nothing to do with "pushing the limits" in terms of HP.
id like to do the hybrid swap but i dont have much experience with fabbing parts like the rest of you i can pull an engine apart swap it in and out but dont have tools to fab some new parts like the bracket that will holds the sensor to the trigger wheel and stuff like that if i find it cheaper when i start building my l61 block ill take the challenge qnd see if one of you guys can make me a bracket and if i can find a trigger wheel
