Is there a write up on an ecotec swap for a 99 cavy?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, October 18, 2012 7:39 PM
Basically swap everything. Motor, trans, mounts, gas tank, fuel lines, EVAP system, radiator and all plumbing except bottle, engine AND interior wiring harness, instrument cluster, hvac panel, lower dash w/ frame, dash bezel, and more I'm probably forgetting.
Long story short, take the whole Eco car and swap it into the 99.
thats my plan i am getting a ecotec donor car and swap everything over but i was just seeing if there was anything that i might run into in the process i heard that i might need a special front tranny mount
You'll need to rewire the car back to the tail lights....
You'd spend less and get more for your buck if you swap a 2.4 LD9 motor in...
is it the same process as the ecotec for the 2.4?
negative... you can swap a pre 2000 2.4 and not have to rewire the entire car... you'll need motor, trans, ecu, upper motor mount, PCM, and engine wiring. You'll be able to retain your stock cluster and dash and interior wiring. (however see my notes below about a 1999 engine)
You will have to weld trans mount brackets if you want the 2000+ getrag transmission. The Eco and the 2.4 share the same transmission with different bell housings... However the 96-99 Isuzu trans should drop right in (someone correct me if i am wrong)
In reality... You can swap any 2.4 in, however, if you get a 1999+ Engine, you'll need to add the EGR (the hole and screw holes are in the head in all years), a 96-98 exhaust mani or header (with EGR port), and you'll need to bore out and rethread the knock sensor port on the back of the block. (99+ uses a smaller knock sensor than 96-98)
1999 is a bastard year... The engine has been revised to not have the EGR, and to have the smaller knock sensor, but the interior wiring does not include a Body Control Module, which all 2000+ J bodies have.
hmm ok but it seems the ecotec be an easier swap to do according to EVILution? my plan this summer is to get a hold of a donor car swapping everything over and then in the winter turbo or supercharging it.
Since you live in Fl, as do I, and I have done the swap a few times I think I can lend some good advise/info.
As far as ease in regards to cost, the Eco will be the better swap.We have gotten donor cars for $700-$1200, which gives you everthing you need. A good 2.4 (LD9) in Fl will run (last time I checked) $900, and that is just the motor, not the trans.
Things to look out for while getting a donor car. Try not to get one that is in a front in wreck. Rear wreck is best, but keep in mind all wiring (inside and out has to be swapped over). If done this way it will be plug and play.
It is possible to do this swap without rewiring the whole car and run it off the ECU currently in your car, but requires rewiring sensor plugs, etc.., and would need ECU tuning.
Swapping everything is the better way and looks orginal.
FU Tuning
Ruben Torres wrote:hmm ok but it seems the ecotec be an easier swap to do according to EVILution? my plan this summer is to get a hold of a donor car swapping everything over and then in the winter turbo or supercharging it.
well it all depends on defining easy...
replace motor/trans/ecu/engine wiring
replace motor/'trans/weld mounts/ecu/engine wiring/ dash wiring/floor wiring/gas tank/evap lines/radiator/ gauge cluster/hvac panel/trunk wiring
You tell me what is easier...
John may have a point. I don't know how much LD9s run down there. In VA, i can get them for $150 all day long from the bone yard... Spend another 300-350 and replace all the gaskets, the piston rings, and the bearings (which i would do to any used motor), timing chain and tensioner, and the water pump. Spend another $100 for the trans. $30 for the PCM, and $50 on the wiring, and another $200 between the ps pump + lines, the alt, the ac comp, and the upper motor mount. and I'm looking at about $1000 for everything and a lot less you have to do to put the motor in...
Its really up to you... both motors essentially perform the same... both motors essentially get the same gas milage... both motors are easily boosted... both motors are easily buildable... both motors essentially have the same reliability. Parts are readily available for both engines. There is a stigma that the Eco is better.... this is just a myth...
It boils down to how much work you want to do... the entire car from front to back... or just the engine bay...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, April 26, 2012 4:13 AM
Mystic02VA (GME Chat) wrote:Ruben Torres wrote:hmm ok but it seems the ecotec be an easier swap to do according to EVILution? my plan this summer is to get a hold of a donor car swapping everything over and then in the winter turbo or supercharging it.
well it all depends on defining easy...
replace motor/trans/ecu/engine wiring
replace motor/'trans/weld mounts/ecu/engine wiring/ dash wiring/floor wiring/gas tank/evap lines/radiator/ gauge cluster/hvac panel/trunk wiring
You tell me what is easier...
John may have a point. I don't know how much LD9s run down there. In VA, i can get them for $150 all day long from the bone yard... Spend another 300-350 and replace all the gaskets, the piston rings, and the bearings (which i would do to any used motor), timing chain and tensioner, and the water pump. Spend another $100 for the trans. $30 for the PCM, and $50 on the wiring, and another $200 between the ps pump + lines, the alt, the ac comp, and the upper motor mount. and I'm looking at about $1000 for everything and a lot less you have to do to put the motor in...
Its really up to you... both motors essentially perform the same... both motors essentially get the same gas milage... both motors are easily boosted... both motors are easily buildable... both motors essentially have the same reliability. Parts are readily available for both engines. There is a stigma that the Eco is better.... this is just a myth...
It boils down to how much work you want to do... the entire car from front to back... or just the engine bay...
Ok thanks for the info and advice I appreciate it, whatever motor i choose ill be posting up when I get started thanks
Addicted to meth wrote:Since you live in Fl, as do I, and I have done the swap a few times I think I can lend some good advise/info.
As far as ease in regards to cost, the Eco will be the better swap.We have gotten donor cars for $700-$1200, which gives you everthing you need. A good 2.4 (LD9) in Fl will run (last time I checked) $900, and that is just the motor, not the trans.
Things to look out for while getting a donor car. Try not to get one that is in a front in wreck. Rear wreck is best, but keep in mind all wiring (inside and out has to be swapped over). If done this way it will be plug and play.
It is possible to do this swap without rewiring the whole car and run it off the ECU currently in your car, but requires rewiring sensor plugs, etc.., and would need ECU tuning.
Swapping everything is the better way and looks orginal.
Thanks sounds like im going to be going in that direction. since you have done this before do you know about auto to manual swap at the same time?
Ruben Torres wrote:Addicted to meth wrote:Since you live in Fl, as do I, and I have done the swap a few times I think I can lend some good advise/info.
As far as ease in regards to cost, the Eco will be the better swap.We have gotten donor cars for $700-$1200, which gives you everthing you need. A good 2.4 (LD9) in Fl will run (last time I checked) $900, and that is just the motor, not the trans.
Things to look out for while getting a donor car. Try not to get one that is in a front in wreck. Rear wreck is best, but keep in mind all wiring (inside and out has to be swapped over). If done this way it will be plug and play.
It is possible to do this swap without rewiring the whole car and run it off the ECU currently in your car, but requires rewiring sensor plugs, etc.., and would need ECU tuning.
Swapping everything is the better way and looks orginal.
Thanks sounds like im going to be going in that direction. since you have done this before do you know about auto to manual swap at the same time?
Yes done that swap also. Which makes it more important to have a good donor car. Yoou have to cut out the auto tranny mount, and weld in the manual mounts. You could cut them out of the donor car (we have done that), or buy the rear mount from GM, and fab up a front mount, or try and get on the group buy from TTR for the last round of front mounts they plan to make.
FU Tuning
I have a welder and a plasma cutter so i can use the same mounts and where do you get your donor car. I have searched everywhere and its almost impossible to find a 2003-2005 cavy that is stick in florida
We had gotten them from insurance auctions.
FU Tuning
dont you need a license to buy from auctions?
It's not hard just long. Just swap everything over from the donor, it really helps if they are side by side you can just go from one car to the other. I think my swap took something like 23 hours total over 3 days.
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So just a quick question, everything for a 2000+ to do an eco swap is just drop in bolt up and go correct?
First off
Quote:
It's not hard just long.
That's what she said.
Second if your swapping everything from the car and you can get one for $700 why not just fix the car you got for $700? Unless you like the body style of the older 99 better?
Heres a good start -
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=30&i=49974&t=38274&p=1
I was going to do this swap on my 2000 2.2 OHV, but found a wicked deal on an 2002 cavalier with an ecotec. The 02 was already nicely upgraded so I swapped or sold all the other parts off my 2000 and sold it off. Might be cheaper to do it that way IMO. Either way good luck and keep us posted!
