Hey guys ive had this check engine problem with my 02 z24 for around 2 months now. I brought it into chevy for acomputer read, and they said it was an evap problem. Now they wanted 90$ to hook it up to a smoke machine and test the fuel system. Now my questions are this, i had the code cleared once, and it did not come back on right away. It came back around 3 days later. Ive also noticed a pretty bad misfire on my car when its running at its normal temp. Ive replaced the plugs 3 times, the coils twice, and the boots as well. Still nothing.. any idea's as to what may be causing these problems? mainly the evap problem code? i dont want to dump awhole lot of money into it since im going to be ordering an 08 cobalt ss turbo. > any help is appreciated!

this should probably be posted in the maintenance topic.. But i had the same problem with my 03 Ecotec.. IT turns out it was a hose leading from my intake manifold to the evap dealebob in my engine bay.. found that out myself after i got it back from some shop and spent like $130 to do the smoke test and all that stupid stuff.. i just replaced the hose with a sylicone one that i wasent using from my intake.. did the trick no code any more.

alright, can you be more specific? lol. A picture with a circle around the hose type more specific?lol. I should have posted this there though.. your right.

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i wrote: 0440 relates directly to the evaporative emissions system. the parts that it monitors include (from stern to stem): the gas cap, the gas fill neck, the gas tank, the gas tank pressure sensor, the vacuum lines running from the tank to the evap canister, the canister itself, the valve on the canister, the lines from the canister to the purge valve, the purge valve itself, and finally, the line from the purge valve to the intake manifold.
if any one of these 16 parts is faulty, it could trigger the 0440. the most common place to begin diagnosis is with the gas cap, as if not screwed on tight enough (by yourself or the gas station attendant) -or- if the rubber on the cap has degraded enough to not make a seal, then this code could be thrown. a gas cap should not cost more than $6-$8 at your local parts tore. next, a visual inspection of the lines to see if any are cracked, broken, kinked, or otherwise pinched off/leaking. if, after these inspections have been made and determined to not be the cause of the problem, i wold recommend getting your emissions system smoke tested.the parts after these simple diagnoses can get quite expensive depending on where you get them from, and as such, you'll only want to change the part thats causing the issue.

same parts, different locations for the 00+ cars. really, the smoke test is the easiest way to find the leak.



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first thing is double check that you actually tightened your gas cap

Its different for you but maybe you'll get what I'm saying in comparison to your engine.

that helps alot guys. never thought of the gasket on the gas cap. a surefire place to start looking. thanks guys Any takers on the DRL problem?

what drl problem??

post a link to the thread.

Do you know if it was a gross leak detected on the evap, or a minor leak??

i honestly dont know john, they just ran the code, didnt tell me the code number, and told me it was an evap code. as for my drl.. when i disengage the parking brake, the drl's are suppost to come on. well.. mine flash about 7 or 8 times, then turn off completely and a service light comes on. someone told me that there was no power comming to the low beams, so when i engage the high beams, it acts as my low beams. its wierd. any ideas?

I would get the code read at autozone. If it comes up as gross leak detected, buy a new gas cap and try it. If it is a small leak, it could be anything, but the gas cap will always show up as a gross leak.

What car do you have?? your profile is blank. the blinking drl followed by the service light indicates you have a bulb out. I would check those. I am guessing you have the 00+ (since your user name is z24guy2002), which would be the 9007 bulb style. Pull them out, and replace them, while you have them out, check for power/ground at the harness. If there is no power, check the fuse first...then go from there.

check the DRL relay, if you remove the relay trying to disable the DRL's or if the relay craps out it it will do exactly what you described

Evap code could be anything from a gas cap to a cracked/split hose to a bad evap purge valve. Pretty much if ANYTHING in your evap system has a leak .020" or bigger, it will cause that code to display. The reason it takes a while to reset is that the ECU only runs the evap leak test every so often, under certain conditions. And in the case of a small leak, sometimes if its hot one day, it will throw the code, and if the temp drops 10 degrees the next day it won't come back until the temperature comes back up. Do a visual check for any lines in your engine bay for cracks or splits or any lines that show signs of dry rot. Trace these from the engine back to the gas tank and see what you find. If nothing obvious comes up, its going to be almost impossible to find without using a smoke tester or at least using a scan tool to run the ECU's leak test while clamping/plugging lines at different points in the evap system to eliminate certain components as possibilities. These were actually my favorite jobs to get back when I was at Dodge, because as long as you had the scan tool and the smoke machine it was relatively easy work that tended to pay ok (compared to chrysler's stance on warranty electrical work anyway). But without a scan tool that can run the ecu's evap test, you're really just going to have to suck it up and let the dealer or a shop find it, if your visual inspection comes up with nothing.




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