WTF when I tryed to go out tonight my rad blew! the fan broke another place and it didn't take long during these hot days to chew through it without me noticing.I HATE that rad fan! its such cheap crap. now i have to spend $25 for a rad.
I have my car setup for the v6 grandam radiators anyway
Guess what I made today... and no, it's not a weed pipe
I just have to spot weld the bracket back on so it would fit back holding the block heater on and stay put. I forgot that minor detail before I painted it.
if that is your return, that is TOO SMALL
you need at least a 1/2" I.D., that looks like a 1/4"I.D.
SundayNight PegCity wrote:You think it'll last at least a month? Don't worry, I'll try to build up the crap I have and buy a block and an extra gasket set. But I really want an excuse to put my quad in. I get around $300 spending money a week. I always have at least $400 on me for emergencies though. I dont know what would cost over 400 for my car.
well wenever i get scared of blowing my enigne i can always close my charge pipe and it'll make the blow off sound... what do you think? LOL
I think it'll be pretty gay and pathetic. or i can make a pipe to blow the air out and make it sound like an airplane. :o)
Ok are yoiu saying you get $300 THIS week or EVERY week, because seriously man, if you are getting $300 a week that you can put towards a turbo project I have NO idea why you are talking about this "ghetto" setup. Seriously save for like 3 or 4 months and you'll be able to run something boosted AND reliable...
_______________________
Project L61 - Slowly but Surely
16.2@82.54 Auto w/ Intake and Exhaust
14.9@89.79 w/ a Blower
Yeah, I just realized after posting I visiting the 2.2 oil return thread (that I resurrected) that my oil return was too damn small... forget it, I'm just going to tap the pan.
Last night my rad fan broke off and destroyed my rad then I had to retrofit and old looking thick one that was made from aluminum today.
I ran into some problems with my 2.3 TB swap... My engine tried to commit suicide because the throttle plate was stuck open. I used wd-40 and that did the trick but I think my intake manifold is leaking now so tomorrow I have to see if I can fix my intake. get really paranoid if I smell something in the air... mostly it comes from beaters like burnt electrical, or smelly oil exhaust. Today I smelled some exhaust and un-burnt fuel so I pulled over to check my head gasket and to see if my fuel rail was bolted down. I actually don’t know if my head gasket really did blow or I'm hearing my rod bearing bang. But usually the head gasket blows toward the water jacket.
I'm actually getting an extra 2200 tomorrow. I'll have like 4 engines at my parents house a 2.8, 2.3 a 350 and that extra 2200.
Steve, was your 2.2 a multiport Fi, then you converted it to 2200? were the 5.0 mustang injectors a direct fit for the cav or did you get your intake machined for top feed and to fit those?
I'm going to upgrade my fuel system first, and I don't intend to have a ghetto turbo system for long... I said before that if I like it I'll make it respectable. I'm already looking around for a good turbo charger.
Anybody, planning on getting the HPTuners? Because you can count me in if there’s a pool. But Steve, you can't use HPtuners because you’re a 96 right?
I'm going to be a student at Red River for auto-mechanics year 1(certificate = garbage) this august. So, I might be out of money while going to school. then I'm taking a 2nd year for the diploma (maybe still garbage) I'll probably hate auto mechanics after dealing with noobs like me.
But if or when I do build a decent turbo system, you guys would help me out if I have trouble… right? :S
HPtuners is already in the city, and MAY be available to others towards the fall of this year (depending on the owners schedules, etc). Let me know if you're interested, and I can fill you in.
15.3 @ 89.97mph, 14's on the way?
I didn't convert to a 2200. I am running a 96 2.2L OHV as a 93 2.2L OHV (if you consider the DIS system I swapped to) I no longer use the cam sensor, and so I cannot run Multipoint injection. I am stuck with using Batch fire for now. (so its running as if it were a 93)
I did a top feed conversion using the original 96 2.2L intake manifold, and am running a Mantapart Upper Plenum. I bought 'Bosch' style injector bungs off the net, and ground away the old rail/runners to make them fit. Delivering the fuel and holding the injectors in their place is a 2.3HO/LO fuel rail. (I think the 2.4 fuel rail would work just the same) I welded support brackets on the rail that bolt up to the manifold to hold things in place. I can no longer use a stock fuel pressure regulator, so I went and bought an Aeromotive adj.FPR.
Look in the boost forum for "MY topfeed conversion" and theres lots of pics there.
You're right about me not being able to use HPtuners, which is why I'm running a Holley Commander 950. From what I gather from HPT, they are almost identical, except I cannot monitor my speed on my program.
I gave up a few luxuries when I went with the Holley.. such as a working speedo, tachometer, and water temp gauge. It sucks, but worth it to have total control over your engine.
I'm sure we'd be willing to offer advice, but honestly I wouldn't feel so inclined to have a hand in making a 'ghetto' turbo setup.
I really think you should go with your dip stick return, just weld a larger pipe on there instead (and angle it at a 45 degree angle or more towards the snail) You dont want all that oil bunching up on you.
hope that helps for now.
^ I guess you can't sell your car either because the milage would be wrong or non existant. You put alot more work into your topfeed. what do you actually plan to do with your setup? It looks like you can beat everybody in terms of power.
I just got an engine yesterday and I was just cleaning the head and all the crap inside the block from that black paint that chipped off over time GM used on the parts. i took off the rods and retainers individually just to clean them... as the winnipegger I am, I wrapped them up in the winnipeg sun newspaper individually by the first newpaper so its in order from the pullies.. all my head bolts are wrapped and anything from the engine itself is handled carefully. I dont think i'll need a torque wrench because when you can't screw them in by hand it's a 90 degree turn to fully tighten with the socket wrench. and i looked at the rod bearrings and caps they were perfect.
I'm just replacing the good ol headgasket just to have piece of mind and getting rid of any crap inside of it. I found a crap load of... crap sitting on the pistons so i cleaned that off.
my oil line fits perfectly to the turbo.
ohhhh man im excitied!!! finally have enoguh dough to order my d-specs(ordering them on saturday!!!), then i got some rims on the way @!#$ i cant wait... finally my cars gonna look like i always wanted it to...
next up is header, hi-flo cat, new mufflers, res, carbon fiber hood, alpine deck and maybe, just maybe some subs again i dunno..... then its done, 100% how i've always wanted it to be...
forgive me for talking 2 myself im just excited its been oh 8 years in the making(and i've only had the car 3 years!!!)
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ayo 8 Iz Enuff
I'll get this one...
Quote:
I dont think i'll need a torque wrench because when you can't screw them in by hand it's a 90 degree turn to fully tighten with the socket wrench. and i looked at the rod bearrings and caps they were perfect.
1. get new head bolts
2. use a torque wrench
3. looks ARE not good enough when bearings are already out. Measure them and replace as necassary.
4. so much cheaper to do it now, than to do it again.
0.02
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
ge_forcez22 wrote:I'll get this one...
Quote:
I dont think i'll need a torque wrench because when you can't screw them in by hand it's a 90 degree turn to fully tighten with the socket wrench. and i looked at the rod bearrings and caps they were perfect.
1. get new head bolts
2. use a torque wrench
3. looks ARE not good enough when bearings are already out. Measure them and replace as necassary.
4. so much cheaper to do it now, than to do it again.
0.02
agree'd wigh ge_forcez22 use a torque wrench... from "finger" tight + 90* is not going to yeild the same torque on every single bolt, thats why torque wrenches were invented. who ever said "finger tight + 90*" is on crack in my opinion (sorry if its anyone here locally) use the proper tools and do it right the FIRST TIME, saves lots of money (ask me how i know.......)
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** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**
Too bad I don't have a torque wrench!
Bearing caps that look good to me are the ones that aren't spun. how do I measure them anyways? play-doh?
before I read this I already got new bolts. because I learned they are made to strech or something so if I try to strech them again it might break in the block.
It's cheaper than I thought to replace the headgasket even with the bolts. Sorry I'm not a technician... I just want to do things myself to the best of my knowledge... but I didn't go to school to learn procedures yet or have a dad as a certified technician. So, I didn't know... k?
I'm not too concerned about selling my car, I think I'm stuck with it for good now. (unless I sell it for incredibly cheap)
I'm done preaching, you go ahead and do whatever you feel is right, cause ultimately I dont think anyone on here should give two sh!ts about your engine.
Its obvious that you don't, so why should we?
good luck
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, July 26, 2006 8:08 PM
all we are saying, is do it right, and have it last. My dad is not a mechanic either. Just take some advice from us and others on here, and hopefully you can have years of trouble free driving... we all wanna see J's driving around reliably. Get'ir done and post some pics
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
Trying to boost a 2.2 on the cheap, is a fast track to a "blew my 2.2" thread. Do it right, the tools cost less than the next rebuild, lol.
15.3 @ 89.97mph, 14's on the way?
I do want my motor to last at least a year. excluding winter.
Is there a tolerance for the bearrings to be measured or are you saying I should throw them out, measure, and get replacements?
I also heard you have to get your crank machined and they do it all for you.
Before that, the only thing I was worried about was buying a bad engine with spun bearring(s). Now I don't know what to do.
btw why does inside the engine smell rancid?
SundayNight PegCity wrote:I do want my motor to last at least a year. excluding winter.
Is there a tolerance for the bearrings to be measured or are you saying I should throw them out, measure, and get replacements?
I also heard you have to get your crank machined and they do it all for you.
Before that, the only thing I was worried about was buying a bad engine with spun bearring(s). Now I don't know what to do.
btw why does inside the engine smell rancid?
in all honesty. i really dont think you should be going about this by yourself for the first time or few times. it takes alot more than "bolting" an engine together to have it last. (example: brand new 355cid engine, ran for cam break in, wiped out all rods and mains, scored the crank and the knicked cam bearings from the last ass that did it killed the cam bearings and the cam. I pulled this engine after hearing it run with open headers for the first time i knew something was wrong (was in a friends car apparently had the engine "professionally done") this was not an inexpensive fix, new gaskets, bearings, machine work,etc.. basically you take a new engine and rebuild it again! you havent even put a mile on it!)
you can do it "on the cheap" per say and have it last awhile if you know how. but its not something a novice can do. special tools are required and know-how is a must, any idiot can pick up a tool, but do they know how to use it correctly?
yes there is a specific clearance the bearings have to have and you NEVER put used bearings back in an engine. the clearances are checked with plasti-guage or a proper caliper (with the latter being the best route) you dont HAVE to get the crank machined you HAVE to check to make sure its in spec still
I'm not going to explain step by step how to do an engine rebuild as its pointless, you have to know what to do with the information before its usefull..
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** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**
looking nice Jason.
1998 Z24 Convertible
new rims look nice influx, just need to do something about them brakes...
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ayo 8 Iz Enuff
It's totally sleeper but its sleek GJ
I think I saw you today steve and your family? on mountain. It was a red snorkles sunfire. I would've waved... but I don't think you like me anyway.
oh you have the ram air hood... I still wouldnt've waved to you cuz I dont want to look like a retard and your like "wtf was that @!#$".
DaBlackZ wrote:new rims look nice influx, just need to do something about them brakes...
Quiet you. *shakes fist* lol
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Project L61 - Slowly but Surely
16.2@82.54 Auto w/ Intake and Exhaust
14.9@89.79 w/ a Blower
