Just bought this one owner 1984 Cavalier. Wanted to know if i made a good buy or not. It is all original with 64k miles. I bought it for just under $1100. Purchased from the original owner who bought it new 30 years ago. Here are some pics of it. I'm going to fix it up and get it running really good and smooth and use it as my DD commuter. I wanted something fun and different to drive to work. And the gas milage is good. I just had a few questions. It shudders when it's stopped and in gear and my foot is on the brakes. If I do it long enough te check engine light comes on and throws P0300 for random misfire. And code P0174 for system too lean (bank 2). I replaced plugs and wires and still doing it. Not sure what to do next. I'm wondering if it's misfiring because it's to lean. Or running to lean because it's misfiring.
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In my opinion you found a good buy.
If that was for sale up here, I'd buy it in a heartbeat for that cheap haha.
You should buy a set of wheels for it. It'd change the looks of it.
If you don't want to spend a lot, you can buy some third gen cavalier z24 16 inch wheels for probably $100-200.
I was thinking about that but I really like the classic look of it. I'm thinking about repainting them back to the stock color.
It looks like you got a good deal there. The car looks really clean. Just scrapped an 84 sedan parts car last spring with the exact same interior.
Don't know about the codes that you are getting. But if it only does it when stopped in gear look for cracked or loose vacuum lines. Also your car has a distributor cap and rotor that need to be replaced when you tune it up. How did the plugs look when you replaced them? Does it stall and run fine until you put it in gear again and then possibly stall out again? That could be the TCC solenoid. I am not sure if 84's had them but they were on second gens (Turbo-Hydramatic 125 C trans). I am sure someone on here will know for sure. Could be going astray here but these are some of the things I would look at.
I know it needs a cap and rotor. I am waiting until they come in the mail. I only use factory AC DELCO parts. I'll get the lines looked at tomorrow. Do you possibly have a passenger side mirror from that car?
Welcome to the Club Timmy!!
The vacuum lines are a good posibility.
Some idle shrudder is fairly normal as the engine mounts are worn out older J's. Have had shrudder in my old wagon since I've had it in 2002 - so it isn't going to keep you off the road. My '94 I just picked up has it too at idle.
Another possibility could be a weak coil for the misfire.
Sticking TCC solenoid will shut you down when you come to a stop. The clutch is locked in and is just like coming to a stop in a manual car in top gear. The trick to get home is to (hopefully be in some gravel) rev the engine nearly wide open and drop her in drive. The wheels will spin enough to get the car momentom and start moving before the engine stalls. Kinda like trying to start a car moving with the transmission stuck in 5th gear. Sometimes after a couple of attempts the solenoid releases by itself.
Not sure about your lean condition - bank 2 , I'm guessing you have the V-6. Fuel Pump. Fuel Regulator? Although I don't know how either would effect just one bank though. Double check and make sure your plugs are tight.
Great Deal there!! Sounds like all you gotta do a Gremlin Flush!
All plugs are correct. And it's not a tranny issuee. It doesn't stall out at all. And the bank 2 confuses me a lot since it's the 2.0L TBI. It's a 4 banger so there's not a second bank. I'll look at the vaccum lines tomorrow. And I have already planned on a new ignition coil, cap and rotor. And would the engine mounts cause it to misfire? I hope it's a simple fix like a fuel pump or vaccum line. Really don't want to get too deep into the engine.
Ok see you reposted as I suggested.You said the plugs were correct? If these have not been changed I would along with a good plug set from NAPA not autozone or advance those really suck.I would def do the rotor button and cap and replace the fuel filter a fram G3727 sold at walmart and auto zone for sure.I would also suggest removing the vacumm line to the EGR and see if this clears up the problem.This will not hurt the car and you can drive it and then determine if this makes a difference or not.I want get to deep into the electrical checks like the map sensor or checking the fuel pump psi just yet.Also being I would lay odds the tbi has never been rebuilt and the fuel pump is probably the original pointing to key items in my opinion that can create problems.I can get carried away so let me stop now.Again nice find and any questions you have just keep posting the status as you go here on your post as I frequent here just about daily.
No , worn engine mounts just trasmit the idle vibrations to the body and allow the car to shruder at idle. LoL......I used to have my glove box door rattle years ago at stop lights , but I guess it gave up and quietened down.
Fuel Pump is a good project on your list - the cost is low and worth the time since that will lay you up easily.
When the weather gives you a chance check the drive axels and make sure the CV joint boots are not busted too. I'd also would suggest checking the brake lines nose to tail and get a good look at any rust issues underneath since you are using a 30 year old vehicle.
The passenger side - side view mirrior is not available at the auto parts stores. They will sell you a drivers side one but don't carry the passenger side. You might grab one off of EBay.
Might as well get familiar with the local Salvage Yards in your neck of the woods. A lot of parts nowadays are will have to come from there too.
These are very dependable cars , cheap and easy to work on. Make sure you pick of a Shop Manual off of EBay when you get a chance - they are cheap and absolutely invaluable!!
$1,100 and it's that clean you made a steal
Okay so the check engine light is off now. No more misfires. It was my 02 sensor. Yay. But it still shudders at idle. Maybe it is an engine mount. No vaccum leaks either.
Another question. What paint code is my car?!?
All of your production codes , including the paint codes ought to be on the Spare Tire Cover.
Glad to see you got it fixed. Sometimes the old OBD1 codes were not that accurate.
The sedan did not have a passenger side mirror.
And my new parts car does not either.
I might have one in the trunk of my stored convertible. I would not know for sure until the end of the month when I get the car from storage. If you still need one by then, let me know.
Awesome! Thanks for the thought. If you do find it let me know. Mine has one on it, but it looks like a different mirror?? Ill post a pic later. Also i did lift it today and the passenger CV is busted. But ZERO RUST. The original owner had sprayed the entire underside with protectant. As well as a clear rustoleum on the lower parts of the car.
Well seems a quick over did result in finding at least one item to be done.I personally would just replace the whole axle with the busted boot over doing just a new boot.We all here have tons of info and specific things we all kind of specialize in or have done.As for the mirror if it does not match the driver side I see new aftermarket exact matches for sale a lot on ebay.I just recently replaced my fuel pump and all associated parts regarding this in my own thread for (sunny) my cars name.I still have a short video idea I want to do on removing he fuel tank and replacing the fuel sending unit for the gauge to read correct on the dash.This week I will try to set that up so IF you do replace this it will be easier to understand what to do or expect.