Ok I think wayne(made a good point)! Since your car has the idiot light I am going to guess it has dual senders on the 2.8? I know my 2.0 has 2 one is for the actual oil pressure,and one is for the idiot light to engage.Being the light is dim clearly means the unit is probably clogged up or has a reduced ability to read the psi.I would just replace the at least 1 sender which probably has a two terminal plug and IF you have a single wire sender close to it going in the block it should be related to the oil pressure system and would change it too.I am not 2.8 savy but this would be my 1st start then go from there.I will read or check some books for the diagrams to see if my thoughts are correct to the letter.I would not rule out doing a fuel pump in the near future either just the age of the car I would do as a preventive being ocd about auto work.
Another culprit could be the Fuel Pressure Regulator acting up.
Since your cheap new ride is bought and paid for you can take your time and throw some money into it and replace a lot of these components. Most if not all parts are cheap as well, and replacing them now while you can still source them will serve as good insurance later down the road too boot. Eventually you will stumble upon the culprit of your car drama.
I would put priority on the oil pressure issue since obviously that could be a deal breaker if you are indeed low. I do know that there are 2 power inputs to the fuel pump. 1 is via the fuel pump relay. The second is via the oil pressure sending unit that acts as a backup should the relay go out. If you are experiencing a prolonged cranking time this could be because the fuel pump relay is bad and the engine is having to build up oil pressure before the fuel pump kicks in. All this information is probably useless since you hear the pump kicking in when you turn the key.
Okay I ran the car till it quit. I was driving it kinda hard and it was in no time it quit and wouldn't start back up, I was home when this happened so I poured water on the ICM to cool it down and boom the car cranked up and ran for a few minutes. So I am now thinking this is heat related with the ICM and needs replacing and I am going to replace the oil sending unit and hope for the best.
ICM?......Oh how I can relate!!! - except when mine went there was no second chances.
These little buggers are infamouse for causing J-Body owners grief. I still have the bad one right here next to my computer screen as a little reminder to not give up when I get stranded in one of my J's. Only cost me about $20 and my little Sunbird has been running fine ever since. Afraid I couldn't try the water method on mine as it was located inside the dizzy.
Here is the old thread you can browse through. Lot of relates and old war stories to share....Hahaa!
Okay I got around to the car today and put a oil pressure gauge on it. I got 22psi at idle and around 45-50 if I hit the throttle one good time. So I am going to replace the sending unit. I did found out my fuel filter was stopped up and I replaced it. I have 48psi in the fuel rail even after the car does it thing and quits on me I have 40-48psi in the fuel rail. So now what. I am looking at the CPS/ICM/ECM something is bad causing the car to shut off and wont start back up once it gets up to normal running temperature.
if you want something quick and easy to look at, the next time the car shuts off check your battery bolt connections. I had a Grand Am that would just do wacky things when it warmed up... it was the negative terminal battery bolt coming loose when warmed up.
Well at least you have verified two items and updated that old filter.I would go with the cps on replacing parts one at time as it may be the lower cost on the list.I want say the ecm may have a issue but,I do not on recall remember ecm's being a problematic issue on the 1st gens.Still cool you did the good checks continue on!!
Okay. I hooked up a snap on scanner I borrowed from my dads shop today (Extremely nice to have lol) . I did notice when the ignition is on and the engine is off I get 0.00 volts from the TPS reading, even if I hold the throttle at WOT it reads 0.00. I decided to drive the car the home and while I was going up a hill the car started to run really rough. I could pop it out of gear and it'll sit there and idle but I couldn't rev it up like I wasn't getting enough fuel or something. After a few minutes it started to run fine so I drove it on home. So I said the hell with it and ordered an TPS it will be here in the morning. HOPEFULLY That will fix my problem.
Well that def is pointer.I usually check the tps with a multimeter and jumper wires key ON car not running and IF the voltage either goes up nice a smooth your tps is good.Now I have not tried even with my scan tool to determine a tps issue as the multimeter and actually move it to see if it registers.Still it won't hurt to replace that being some of the symptoms imo.Normally the tps with a meter shows the movement on the tool and if it is slow,or irratic that is a worn component.Good luck
Okay I put the new tps on and drove the car down the road ran pretty good and after I put about 35 miles on the car it started to run rough and died. I tried to crank it back up and it ran extremely rough like skipping and If I touched the gas pedal it'll die again. After a few tries it cranked up and ran good again so I went ahead and went home with it. I let the car sit for 15 minutes and cranked it back up drove it 50 feet and it started to run rough again and died. I put the old tps back on but that didn't do anything. Right now it will crank up run kinda okay for 1/4 for a second and start to skip and shut off. Thought okay maybe I have a fuel problem? I sprayed starting fluid in the intake while I had it running and that just killed it out. I swapped out my map sensor from the other car and that didn't change anything. If I unplugged anything like the MAF/ MAP/TPS/ doesn't make even a slightest difference. I put a fuel pressure gauge back on the car and had 45psi. Also I have noticed my CEL is no longer coming on during a bulb check or in the few seconds the engine is running. I pulled the cluster out and the bulb is good so maybe that has to do with what is wrong? Ah god I think I know why the people sold the car. They didn't want to fool with this crap lol.
Don't get discouraged Matthew, with each attempt you are eliminating one more thing it is not causing your troubles. Bit by bit you are narrowing this gremlin down. Seldom do we magically happen across the bug on first try.
Might I suggest you give the Crank Position Sensor a try. I know these have caused many a driver grief over the years.
We also had a 1st gen owner on here a year or 2 ago that was having a lot of troubles with his turbo Pontiac and I believe it turned out to be his ECM in that particular case. He went through several months of grief replacing everything along the way till he tried that and it cured his symptoms.
Hang in there. Keep punching away and eventually you'll figure this out. Hell, it is paid for and you have plenty of time....
Okay I pulled the ECM out of its little hole and I noticed it is HOT. Sooooo I'm gonna guess its bad because I don't think it should get hot enough where I cant place my hand on it.
Kind of tired after my day of adventures.Just don't give up as orlen said.If you were closer I would not hesitate to drive to your place to spend some time doing my diagnostics to narrow down the issue! I do not think your close enough and a plane ticket and my baggage would be all my trendy tools and some clothes(ha).Continue on dude.
One ECM later.... Didn't do a thing
Did the 2nd ECM get really hot like the 1st one? Doesn't sound right that one of these should be getting that hot. Possible wiring issue. I'd also give the Crank Position Sensor a try.
Ok try these 2 ideas.One is unplug the cps and use a jumper wire and do a short test run and see what happens.2nd idea is for the EGR if yours has vacumm lines going to it unplug them and leave aside.Do yet another test run and see if that clears the problem.Long day but I re-read the entire post to make sure I am not repeating myself.In short if your egr is losing vacumm or the diaphragm inside it is sticking or just worn out it can create a cough,cut off,not restart scenario bc the pintal inside and or the diaphragm is stuck or worn out.This part shows it failing once the car IS warm typically.I do not want to add anymore and keep it short.If your egr does not have a vac line take it off and clean it out with brake clean and blow it out.Make sure the pintal that goes up/down moves freely!Ok R
ECM is no longer getting hot and I do have a code 32 that says EGR System Problem... I was thinking about buying a crank sensor today but I'm going to play with the EGR first and hope for the best.
Great action plan!
If the EGR gets stuck it can dump way too much exhaust gasses back into the intake and cause all kinds of nasty symptoms.
Just think of all the new parts you have on your car now that shouldn't give you any headaches !!
I guess maybe my thoughts were clearly inline as the symptoms and now the code kicked.Just try my cleaning and or unhooking it as it maybe time to buy a new egr just the age.Good luck
Okay cleaning and playing with the EGR didn't do anything. I did however put a crank position sensor in it today and it didn't do a thing. It will crank up run a second and die. I did for kicks and giggles unplugged the connector to the alternator and boom. The car will crank up and run.. Well rough.. I couldn't rev it up. I did drive to my neighbors house to see if it will clear up it didn't. I let the car sit for 15 minutes and I got in it to drive it home and it cranked up and run great. I drove it home and it runs fine like I never had a problem. I went to drive it down the road and floored it and right about when it got to 45mph it started to run rough again. I switched it off and cranked it back up and it was running again like I never had a problem. First time in 12 days I have been able to move the car under its own power... Any ideas? Loose connections somewhere? Bad ground? I am now 100% lost.
Well at least you are gaining on the problem - eliminating a lot more possibles.
Yes the J's are notorious about ground issues. find where the negative battery cable goes to the engine. Replace the cable and clean the heck out of the attachment point at the engine and bolt too. Another possible.... somewhere on your V-6 there has to be a pressure regulator at the fuel rail. Make sure the vacuum line is not cracked anywhere. Might even try replacing it too.
Keep plugging along!!
Let me ponder this as crappy sleep last nite and a 13 hr day thinking too hard is out.Ok
Another thing I have noticed is the cooling fan is on wide open. Even when the car is cold its on wide open and the AC is disconnected.. Computer kicking the car into a limb mood or something? I have no codes in the system.
I will dig on this a touch before I ramble any suggestions.