Recently my beloved 1986 cimarron has developed a problem whereby when I am slowing down to come to a stop at about 5mph it starts stuttering a bit and then dies, almost as if I pulled the clutch out on a manual car without giving it gas. I can start the car again just fine in park or neutral , but if I put it into a gear it lurches and dies again. If i slip it into neutral before I stop I can shift it into a drive gear when the light turns and its ok, and sometimes it works if I rev it a bit in neutral and shift to drive, but sometimes is just squaks the tires and dies again. Other than that it runs pretty much perfectly. Only thing I can figure is maybe the idle speed is too low? This is really annoying as twice now I've not been stalled in the middle of the road with the car running but unable to get it into gear so I've had to push. Any ideas?
TCC switch. Try disconnting and if that solves it, we win.
Blue plug towards the radiator side of the trans ( 4 prong)
Doug in P.R.
92 Pontiac Sunbird LE, 2.0, AT, Red / Black with Grey 143 K miles.Slowly getting back to a halfway decent car............in Salinas, Puerto Rico!
sounds like iac sensor to me - based on past experience with my v6 plymouth voyager... Try unplugging it and note the change in idle speed.
Well guys, I unplugged the TCC and viola, no problem. So I'm guessing I'll need to replace what, a solenoid? I hate the tcc in town as it makes the car "chug" at certain speeds, but I really like it on the highway where it lowers the rpm a bit from the 3000rpm drone, so I'd like it to work properly haha!
Common on Cavalier.. The torque converter clutch solenoid. When warm and at stop light the car will slam to stall like popping a clutch on a manual trans, Starts right up in park and then stalls when you put it in drive. Car will run fine with it disconnected but will not give you overdrive at highway speeds. Ran mother in-laws 94 Cav for 4 years with it disconnected as she rarely drove at highway speeds. Probably best to replace it if doing a lot of hi speed driving.
I would change your ATF in addition to replacing the switch.In the quick summory the fluid additives wear down and the fluid gets too hot and cooks the switch.For a techy side the fluid never wears out it is soley the additives in the fluid break down over time and protect less from wear and heat.
I"m not saying that won't help prevent it, but between the leaking cooling hoses and having the fluid/filter replaced, all in the last 50,000 miles, my TCC now decides to crap out.
Wayne my guess is todays cheap made parts if maybe why yours went so soon.However shorter atf fluid changes in a shorter time would be wise imo.50k is a lot
Just my 2 bits worth from experience. I have a mechanical temp gauge in the Wagon and have learned over time the T-Stats loose their efficiency over time. The china stuff is lucky to last a few years now. The result is that the T-Stat opens fully later and later causing higher and higher temps. Before I replaced my 1st one I began having temps as high as 240 before it would cycle. The 2nd one started acting up after a few years in , and to too started to cycle around 200, so I replaced it again. Those higher temps are also harder on the old transmissions as well. I also have the fan wired up with a switch so I can keep it running when I am in around town sitting a lot at the traffic lights.
Those idiot lights don't let you know what is going on in there. I have the switch on the Sunbird but been too darn lazy to get around putting the gauge on it. The ole bird lives the good life though, I doubt that car has seen rain in the past 2 years....Hahaa.
I have been leery to change the fluid due to some members warning of clutch slippages afterward. Once I have the peace of mind with a spare tranny I will finally give it a try and cross my fingers!
The one reason I bought that $300.00 actron scanner years ago that shows real time data when plugged up showing all the specs as the car runs!!!!!! Live data is priceless when checking things and even though a multimeter helps on many sensors or using a temp gun to show the degrees while running(NOT to costly for one of these) either are good to have if you have the simple clusters.My new obd2 scanner actron CP9580A sold for normal cost of #$249.00 I got on sale for $200.00(btw they put this model on sale ALOT).IT also shows live data and a drive and record data feature which is very helpful.As for cheap parts this applies to pretty much anything sold everywhere.I find some brands hold up better than other's as with any brand.I will say the 1 item so simple that has held solid is the standard AC delco plugs I run and fuel pumps.Both last a long time and I will never run a more expensive plug as they imo are overpriced for our cars.I will say my 1st ac delco fuel pump installed back in 98 lasted until last year in early 14.Not bad considering the extra crappy ethanol added to todays fuel,unless you find a place selling it (ethanol FREE) and yep there are places but,few.The alternate choice is run 93 like bp and this resolves most of the issue's with the condensation,gum up issue this ethanol causes.Plus it will eat up fuel lines (rubber) and gaskets.I got kind of side tracked but,I like to share my info when I am not worn out after a 11 hr day and not wiped out.Whoo
I hate the tcc in town as it makes the car "chug" at certain speeds, but I really like it on the highway where it lowers the rpm a bit from the 3000rpm drone, so I'd like it to work properly haha!
I install a TCC bypass switch in every (automatic) J I've owned, because I agree with you completely - it comes on way too low and is annoying. The switch is great, I leave it off around town and flip it on when I get on the highway. The computer still controls it when the switch is on, but when off it won't let it engage. Very easy and something to think about.
Same thing happened to me. I've been running with my TCC unplugged in my 93 Sunbird for probably 6 months now. It's on the to-do list.
86 Skyhawk wagon 1.8SOHC • 93 Sunbird two door 2.0SOHC • 93 Sunbird four door 2.0SOHC