Buick Skyhawk - Page 3 - First Generation Forum
Forum Post / Reply
You must log in before you can post or reply to messages.
I used this method on the top half with Rustoleum 2X spray cans in the hard to reach spots...
Spraying the bottom half spots/ panels with Duplicolor Perfect Match cans.......
Doug in P.R.
92 Pontiac Sunbird LE, 2.0, AT, Red / Black with Grey 146K miles. Hurricane Maria Surviver! ( It takes a licking and keeps on ticking ! ).....in Salinas, Puerto Rico!
Enjoying your progress Thorn!!
My motto is "There is always more sandpaper and paint" so if something goes a bit booboo tomorrow is another day. Personally I have enjoyed the time I have spent painting my vehicles. While not top shelf , it keeps them on the asphalt and away from the crusher! Also white is a pretty hard color to work with, from my experience.
As any J-Body owner can testify - getting the car is absolutely the easiest part of the project - getting it roadworthy & keeping it on the road is the real beast! Paul94Z28 said it best "It is a journey" I hope yours is a rewarding one!
my biggest problem right now is registration. here in ct it's about 170ish for plates, but in ct insurance is mandatory which i knew, however what i didn't know at the time is that it is also a mandatory fine of 200 if your insurance lapses and is not reinsured within 10 days. so long story short is when i started working on it last year before the winter i let it lapse because i was pulling it off the road to do some much needed tlc and work. so it is going to cost me about 400 to register the car. i have insurance on it now to start with. speaking of insurance, I am in a peculiar situation with the car. it is old enough to be an antique in ct but no insurance company will cover damages to the car due to it's age and i can't get antique insurance because it isn't valuable enough. so if i @!#$ up the car it is on me. thats why i am undecided on what to do with my 88. i have 2 options. either i can get the boddy manual and cut it up in a way so that if i have to i can make major body repairs without getting a new car. or i have been thinking about getting the 6 cylinder motor and suping it up to make a hi performance car out of it. however i have lots of time before i get to that point. i still want to use it's 2.ol ohc and 5 spd in my 84.
gonna change the cv joints today. i hope everything goes well. also in a few more weeks i will hopefully finish the paint job on the car. i need to pick up some satin black paint for the car. ace hardware has it for 29.99. its still the same paint that on the car now. just a different color. also i will take some pics of the door panel template i made on the door. i would really appreciate what you guys think of it. the template is not final yet but for the most part it is complete.
im almost done with the driver's side cv joint. just got the control arm to remove then i can change it. already got the grease and new seals ready to go in. i just watched that paint vid doug and i will say it came out damn good. the paint im using is the same thing. just the ace hardware brand. i just got a job at mohegan sun. so progress will definitely be picking up at a fast pace. also i didnt mention before but i will be tackling the the rear struts some time soon after the car is registered. the finish color of the car will be satin black. i am still debating whether or not to powder coat the control arm since it is small enough to fit in my oven. anyways i am trying to keep up steady progress on the car.
I need some major help and advice. I finally got the castle nut off of the control arm, however i cannot remove it from the steering knuckle. I have no idea what is holding it in place. i can get my pry bar in there but can only get it so far. right now i can't move any further. i have to change the cv joints before i start or finish anything else.
thank you, I will do that since i literally live right behind autozone here in norwich. I should also ask. about how difficult are the rear struts to change? as with the cv joints, I have already bought brand new replacements and have just been sitting on them until I can put them in. I figure before it's back on the road in a few weeks. I want my suspension fixed.
Rear struts on a J???
I've never seen it, should be just shocks, which are easy.
But if they are struts, I'd like to know more about which models have them.
No rear struts on the first gens for sure!!! and 2nds no queston.You have shocks and the springs are just really close to them.Take a double check.I would def remove the rear springs and check your perches as these tend to deteriorate bc the rubber nose boot builds up moisture of the years.If your perches are toast meaning the cone under the rubber boot is flaky rust and nothing I can guide you thru some simple steps to fix cheaply and has to be done with all the metal super stupid clean!
Well i got the control arm seperate and now my oil seal wont come out. Any suggestions?
guys this is a very serious problem right now. I am having great difficulty removing the seal that goes into the transaxle before the inner portion of the cv joint. i cannot finish repairs until the old seal is out. it is stuck in there. i have new ones ready to go in, but i cant do @!#$.
Ok buried in my stuff I reread your ask for help.I assume you are talking about the metal with rubber seal/oring the shaft inserts thru into the trans correct.If so try using a chisel with a hammer and bend one side of the seal lip to make it collapse.DO NOT HIT the transmission just the seal.These are pretty stout seals but,it should POP out with some mild force.When reinstalling the new seal lube the seal sides with some wheel bearing grease to POP in back in.And Using a big socket to pop it in place with out damaging it.I will try and find pauls thread when he did his as,he wacked his and it leaked like a river and had to redue his.The day is catching up but,I will try to find the thread to link it next.
Read thru this post for tips and a better understanding I think it will help.Take PICS if you can to show the seal stuck and or show pics of any further questions.If I had my front end restoration work under way or done I would have done a video walking thru the general steps already,however I have tons to do already and fixing everyone else's cars mainly family has put this on a delay pattern for me the last year or two or too many at this point.I assure you once I go to upgrade my front end I will write a novel on how to do this and or share my experience.Tired I am but trying as my job just wears me out driving and having longgggg days.
Thank you for the help gonna try later today. I got very pised and really did a number on that seal. I havent been feeling well lately plus i just started at the casino, so i have been neglecting my problem.
well i got the cv joints changed awhile ago and got it back together however new problem especially that i just got the car registered today is that my left turn signal wont work. the right side does and I have replaced both the marker bulb and the turn signal bulb as well to no avail. any idea what would be the issue?
Do they not light up at all or do they light and not blink? Dash light work? All brake lights work?
sorry false alarm. i thought the bulb was in all the way and apparently not, since i took the light out and i had to fish it out with my pinky lol. thank you for the fast response though.
Forum Post / Reply
You must log in before you can post or reply to messages.