Well thought I might've had a cracked head for a while now. It's been using a small amount of coolant, and this summer started knocking. With the cold weather the crack opened up, I'm leaking a lot of coolant out next to the #1 sparkplug. After a quick search on the internet I thought it wouldn't be a problem to find a rebuilt head for a reasonable price, until I actually tried to add one to my shopping cart. I don't know why these stores list parts they can no longer get. The only websites I can find that actually do have it, have the price jacked up more than I want to pay. I really didn't want to bother with a used one, but I know where there is one in the junkyard. Don't know if it's any good. Anybody got a good one for sale, or know where to find one rebuilt for a fair price?
I see you have a 1984 correct? I have been searching online at my yards for 1st gen possibles.I do have a complete 2.0 P engine series and this my back up and I am not letting that go.Let me do some digging around to see If I can locate or share a link tomorrow or later as I am working on my nephews 2006 accord with a short list of TO FIX items that are not so easy.R
First cast iron head I've heard of that has cracked. The aluminium Brazil OHC engines were/are far more trouble prone ,(between the valve seats).
Could it be a rusted out head gasket causing your woes?
Please bear in mind sourcing even a used iron head will be far harder since they only used those from '82 through '86 - the rest were aluminium. Also keep in mind any used head will carry an additional $100 trip to the machine shop for a good inspection,(and the chance it is not good or bad valves or springs). I don't think the iron headed engines used Torque to Yield head bolts which is a plus.
Before scratching off your present head you could consider taking it off and spending the $100 to have a machine shop take a look at it for you. A good shop might better offer you some repair options or be able to help you source what you need if all else fails.
Just my 2 cents.
Good points there Orlen!
If you are in the New England area, I have a mostly complete 85 Type 10 with a LOW milage 2.0 in that I would let go cheap. Yard drives and has been sitting for about 3 years. Missing tail lights,dash parts, seats and type 10 trim.
Started last summer. Stored about 15 miles from my house.
I concur with orlen on the cast iron head.These 2.0 engines generally Do not have head issues.If it has been loosing coolant I would in my re-reviewing your post think the problem is your head gasket.These 2.0 ohv engines are pretty solid and mine has 205k on the clock and strong as they come.I do not think the water pump failing would create the problem as it is external on these engines,as it would kick up the idiot light.Coolant in the cylinder points more to the head gasket.I would after the issue is correct use a oil flush in the engine block.As for the cooling system flush I use a product like lime away or the knock off brand from dollar general for lime/calcium build and just use a couple of ounces.After the cooling clean out I run one to two clean water flushes depending on how clean the drain out water is.Typically 1 clean water rinse works good in a good working system and NO problems.Lastly use ONLY distilled water to mix with the normal green coolant and buy this from walmart the super tech brand the cheapest and yes I do Use this all the time! It is in a blue gallon jug and it states to add water to dilute.
The recessed area around the #1 sparkplug was completely full of coolant, After I blew it out with an air hose, I could see the coolant bubbling out around the sparkplug. Definitely cracked, wouldn't be coming out there if it was the head gasket. I really wanted to avoid a used one unless I know there's nothing wrong with it. I'm in Wisconsin, New England is to far. I've seen a few more possibilities for a rebuilt one online, but been to busy to try and order one. Thanks for your help.