* Warning* this is a Looooong post*
Gee....it took me good while to find this post it has been awhile. I wanted to pick this particular one because it was where I had originally painted the top of the Wagon with the Cheap Enamel - and I thought folks might like to see how long it has lasted and held up.
Noe for the about $25 for a quart of paint and primer I think this stuff hold up great provided you don't expect miracles and can tolerate the fade out. Make no mistake this stuff fades something awful! However I am simply gunning for price , protection , and extending the life of my car - for me this works!!
At this point I am getting about 20 months of protection. That Compares almost exactly to what I got with the rattle can method. A much smaller rattle can of paint runs abut $8 nowadays. I wouldn't even want to price out painting a car that way these days. It took me 3 months and somewhere around $300 to do it myself the first time. Keep in mind I did a 3 tone paint job too with a custom grill and 2 pinstripes - the price for such a job at the shop would probably be a Gazillion Dollars.
So here is a follow up repair section. I didn't even start this job till 1:30 this afternoon and had the car rolled back out by 7:30 - a 6 hour job. At first inspection I had 3 rough places to deal with that quickly turned into 10 - nothing unusual. By 9pm it was raining!!
The paint is telling me it is time for attention! See a common theme? Most are under the roof rack at the bolt locations.
This one actually was the worst one causing me to lose sleep - rust is starting to come out of the paint here....
I'd barely noticed this one till I got the roof rack off....
The equipment - Poor Man's tools......
This stuff is My Friend!! My car owes it's life to this stuff!!
Now before you scold me about my old corded drill here and the advantages of cordless - I'd just like to say I've been busting rust, drilling holes , and running screws in and out with this tool for 20 years!! How long does a battery pack last? This one is still going strong!
Got this at the hardware store for about $25 - has saved me a lot of sanding disks over the years!!
Materials.... The only thing I will toss in the trash today will be the foam brush, but not before I soak it in thinner after priming and re-use it for the color coat. Small brush will be for rust inhibitor. Rust inhibitor is water based and I will wash up the oil container and brush for the next time.
Paint and rust bustin' - doesn't take long. Isn't pretty because it isn't meant to be. I'll be working on what needs attention today. As you might see, most places have been visited before. The Rust inhibitor is still doing its magic from the last time. I'm not interested in going down to shiny metal. Remove only what I need to because steel doesn't grow back!
This image is a great one to prove why I only remove what I have to. I used a grinding wheel on this and took it down to shiny metal , only to have to come back to it. Overkill.
Here is a shot of the top - I had a horrible time getting the paint to stick here a few years ago - needed to have been all removed and redone, but I didn't have the time or materials and it was getting cold. The paint has constantly popped and peeled here - and I have constantly patched it right back up and this time the paint has adhered much better. The purpose of the shot is to shot the extreme fade of the paint and also to illustrate that no matter how bad a car may look - the important thing is to maintain it and keep the rust at bay. Next year I hope to get this mess sanded down and apply a smooth uniform coat with a foam roller. Oh yes, some of these patches were made in the dead of winter at freezing - I'd run the car in the garage and use a couple halogen shop lights a few inches off the metal to heat it up so I can make repairs. It Worked!!
Rust inhibitor - I said this stuff is foamy - and here it is. You have to shake it up before use and this is what you get. Take time and work out all the bubbles or it will set like this and you have no rust conversion in spots....
Won't show all the photos of the Inhibitor going on , but it is going to show brush marks unless you use a roller and these small spots are really too small for that. One reason I don't go crazy worrying about a smooth even finish on this car.
Intermission..... If you are not sleeping by now or gone away I have a shop tip for ya.
If you find a box fan someone has thrown out and nitice one of the blades is broken off, ....well pick it up and bring it home cause I got a trick for that puppy!!
Drill a hole with your 20 year old corded drill ( yes you Must have a 20 year old corded drill or it just isn't the same ..LoL) and screw in a proper sized auto balance weigh off an old wheel. (I knew I was saving them for something...) Use a screw and nut .not a wood screw or it will probably fly off.
and there you go - 4 blade still work just fine ...
Back to work... at this point I start to feel better knowing the rust is gone and all I got to do now is cover everything back up.
Finally Prime and Paint and the result... Looks much better than rust, now don't they...
Wrap up - reinstall roof rack and the old wagon is ready to go again!!
I know this ain't pretty , but it sure beats a fist sized hole growing somewhere. Been doing this kind of repairs on the old wagon for some time and it keeps the rust at bay and the car goes anywhere and hauls anything I can get in it. Actually I had a load of old 2x8's in it that I had picked up at work they were throwing away in the back. I cleaned it out and vacuumed inside while the final coats were tacking up! This is the best old car I have ever had!! Hope you enjoyed the post.