The car has a blown head gasket. When I crank it over smoke comes out of the thermostat housing so i'm pretty sure it's the head gasket.
This is the first time owning a 2.0L GM so while i have this thing apart replacing the head gasket is there anything else I should upgrade or check?

I'm planning on getting the head checked out, decked and new gasket.
also replacing the timing belt.

What's involved in replacing the water pump? It doesn't look like any pump i've seen before.

Thanks, i'm sure i'll have more questions as the work progresses.
I'll make sure to post pics too.

Post Pictures of it.

<a href = 'http://ivpnewmedia.com/10thst/tifts/'>
<img src = 'http://ivpnewmedia.com/10thst/tifts/dpBanner.gif'></a>

Looks like a stock black and silver sunbird convertible. I'll post pics tonight.

Deffinately replace the water pump if you are doing the timing belt. The pulley on the pump is used as a tensioner for the timing belt so there is no reason not to. Get a manual to do the belt/pump to make sure that you have it timed and tensioned correctly. You can upgrade to an MLS headgasket while it is apart for a very cheap way of being able to handle a little more boost.



Cardomain|Myspace

Definetly get a GM service manual. The 2.0 is one of the easiest to work on engines I've ever touched once you know it's quirks. Most of the quirks are things that make it easier to work on, once you know.

You may want to consider upgrading to the 90+ timing belt tensioner system. Instead of using the water pump as the sole tensioner, it has it's own tensioner system, and also nicer belt enclosure. IT's a good bolt on upgrade. Any 90-94 2.0 will have it at a junkyard.

Here's a link to the pictures like i promised.
http://www.kgperformance.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=249

I just received my service manual today so i think i'll be digging into it tomorrow.

makes me miss my car... and now i need to get those fender flares... nice find... will it be a daily?

You may also want to consider tossing a set of rod bearings in there while it's down. It doesn't take long at all, and it's well worth it.

yea, my opinion, new main and rod bearings, timing belt, maybe serpentine belt, water pump, new piston rings, all new gaskets, ect.

"Hondas are like tampons, every pussy has one!!!"

Main bearings are stout as are piston rings. I wouldn't touch em as it's just asking for extra trouble. But rod bearings are worth upgrading too, get the clevite 77 replacements and set of ARP rod bolts. I think the part numbers for both are in my profile.

Yea, like if i tore my motor down that far, id just do a complete rebuild (main and rod bearings, replace all gaskets, oil pump, water pump, valves, valve springs, retainers, rocker arms, new clutch, ect.) but thats me lol if your just wanting to get it running with the least possable expense, new head gasket, and new bolts, and gaskets from the head up that you had to tear down, obviously, and if you want, which is a good idea, like you said, water pump, and gasket

"Hondas are like tampons, every pussy has one!!!"

The reason I said the rod bearings is because they are VERY easy to do with the engine in the car. Just drop the oil pan and there they are.

yea, i understand that.. mains arent too bad, when i did them in one of my friends sunbirds, i just took the pan off, took the i guess youd say end cap off, took them out of those, and used a small screwdriver and hammer to get the others at the top to losten, then turned the crank making sure the bearing didnt damage the crank, and vise versa to get them back in, basically

"Hondas are like tampons, every pussy has one!!!"

I didnt think it was a good idea to just replace rod bearing without machining the crank.

Also, How common is it for the head to get warped? I'm wondering if i should get it checked before I pt it back together.

The only reason you would need to machine the crank is wear. Even though I have not had an issue with the head on my Sunbird being warped it is still a good idea to take the head down and get it at least checked over. I would go ahead and get a valve job and change the valve seals since you will have it off anyways, and it really is not that much more to have all of that done. Besides, getting the head fully done will make it like new. Also remember to use new head bolts, and to follow the torque sequence fully, including the tightening after the engine is warmed to operating temperature.

If you have the crank out... replace the main bearings too.. prolly a good idea.. i think you have to anyway once its out... but head warping.. its a little common, id get it checked just in case, really the only way for it to happen is if its been driven and the temps get high, or after the gasket has blown, it was driven for a long time.. id still say, just to be safe, get it checked

"Hondas are like tampons, every pussy has one!!!"

I just want to get this car running again so i can enjoy it before it gets too hot here in FL. So i don't know if i want to get that much into rebuilding it.. the car has 98k miles on it. How long do these motor's usually last?

Keith455 wrote:I just want to get this car running again so i can enjoy it before it gets too hot here in FL. So i don't know if i want to get that much into rebuilding it.. the car has 98k miles on it. How long do these motor's usually last?

mine had 122K on it and still ran,but poor oil changes (a young girl owned it before me)and the top end oil holes pluged up and cam went flat.I rebuilt it w/new turbo and injectors ,and all,I use it to go to work (85miles) and have to climb a grade (6 for 25 min,whitch means turbo is on full,and this little enging just keeps on going and going and going,,amazing!


1990 sunbird LE conv w/turbo 2.0L----new eng,turbo,injectors
1984 buick t-type 3.8L turbo v6--fast!
1940 olds sedan street rod

UPDATE: Well it was worse then just a blown head gasket.. The head was melted in spots. you can see some pics here. http://www.kgperformance.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=251&g2_page=5
So I put a new Head on and a lot of other new parts and it RUNS BUT it's burning a lot of oil..
I think it's the turbo.. I blocked the oil feed and the smoke stopped.. I don't think the turbo liked it though.
So now my question is Where can i get a Cheap rebuilt T25?
Thanks

I just got an 88 sunbird GT turbo convertible. I had the stock 2.0 convertible from 92-95...Loved that car, so i searched and found a black turbo that was sittng in a barn. It needs a whole bunch of TLC to get it running right. The waste gate is frozen..trying to free that. all the vacuum lines need replaced...on and on... My question is, What are the timing settings on the 2.0 turbo? I have a chiltons and it references timing on the 2.0 OHC but does not specifically mention the turbo model...any help would be appreciated
Thanks

you can go to majestic turbo...they rebuild your turbo for about 400 bucks. GM wants 800 for a re built

kevin zanewicz wrote:I just got an 88 sunbird GT turbo convertible. I had the stock 2.0 convertible from 92-95...Loved that car, so i searched and found a black turbo that was sittng in a barn. It needs a whole bunch of TLC to get it running right. The waste gate is frozen..trying to free that. all the vacuum lines need replaced...on and on... My question is, What are the timing settings on the 2.0 turbo? I have a chiltons and it references timing on the 2.0 OHC but does not specifically mention the turbo model...any help would be appreciated
Thanks

Kevin, I would make your own thread rather then bumping a year + old one.

To answer your question specifically, throw out your chiltons and get a real GM service manual - your local main library or ebay has them.

The timing setting is on the underhood emissions sticker. On most models, it's 8 degrees BTDC. That is the BASE electrical timing, the timing is self correcting as well. 99.9% of the time the BASE timing does not need to be modified. You can see where the factory set it because there will be a scratch that the factory made to indicate where they set it, on the topside of the base of the distributor and the mounting surface on the cam carrier.

To check timing, you have to do several things first:
1. The engine MUST be at operating temperature - coolant temp should be at least 180 C - ensuring it's closed loop.
2. With the engine off You must ground the diagnostic port of the ALDL connector like you were going to check engine codes. Then start the car with the port still grounded. This will run the engine in diagnostic mode, and among other things, it will disable the electronic timing advance. The radiator fan will also be on full, IAC will reset to default etc etc. The engine will likely run rough. This is ok/normal.
3. Timing notch is on the crank pulley / balancer. Timing indication/scale is either on:
a.) 82-90: Old style timing belt system, uses water pump as tensioner. Scale is metal, likely rusted (brush it with steel brush), and bolts to the block, juts out over the crank pulley.
b.) 91-94: New style timing belt system, has a seperate balancer. Scale is plastic and molded into the timing belt cover above the crank pulley.

HTH.