k first off, i would get a noid light, or just a test light (altho that sometimes wont work for checking some injectors)
You should have power on one wire going to the injectors, and on the other, the ecm injector driver will temporarly ground the other wire to trigger the injector. See if your getting it triggered which im sure your not and were gonna be looking at something like a bad ignition module.
89 355 s10 blazer
94 sunbird, 2.0 turbo 5spd getrag swap
Turbonetics turbo, intercooler, E85 20psi
got a noid light hooked it up seemed to flash very dimley while cranky and onced stopped it would flash blightly once.. also hooked up the iac light since it came with the kit and both led lights turned red with the key on the on position. then both turn green while cranking. i tried this on my 94 and it was diff.. one green one red with the key on then while cranking it would switch back and forth .
also scanned it again and the codes i got were 42, 33, 32,24,23,21,14,13. would the 21 throttle position sensor cause this problem? kinda stumped now...
any ideas? i never got into the crank sensor testing or anything yet, just wanted to see what u thought about this stuff so far
I seriously doubt the TPS would kick all those codes.It is normally when the car runs and hesistates,irractic idle but not necessarily a no start.Now I still will point to a bad crank pos sensor,being it ties in all the systems above with the ecm.You could try the selve diagnostics on the wellsve.com page I suggested (there is a way to test it).But you could cheat maybe and if it is a 2 plug terminal use a jumper to fake a solid ground(assumming) it has this.Next is a wayyyyy out there possibility your coolant sensor.Not sure if u have a guage or not,but if u soley have a dummy light key on,light off once running here is my sugg(use a jumper) and if 2 prong easy wire to each end,if 1 plug slide on wire to term then to a ground and secure.The coolant sensor plays in runnability and if bad may not read and may cause the scenario(MAYBE)but a doubt in my reading,and knowledge.Let me doodle some more on this.
haven't been around recently to work on the car. planning on it tomorrow. just wanted to see if u doodled some more on the subject with any ideas?
Nope on the doodling.Last wk I wore myself out getting lets see two doors 1st gen,two side glasses,and three strut bars and other misc items.Aside from yard work etc.I seriously would replace the crank pos sensor and the harness going to it.This items times the entire system and if faulty could cause the multiple codes your car kicked,aside from a new or replacement ecm u tried or did.The tps would soley kick spotty throttle,rev low or high as sh!! or just go flat in between or do nothing until catches a read at a unworn point.I will not ramble on more,stupid tired long day work wise(real work job) and my ecm is running real weak(ME).Do the cps sensor check or just replace it and the harness,is the route I suggest right now.I need sleep and prolly wondering all over the place on this post.