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Re: New Car
Thursday, October 02, 2014 7:39 AM
There is a switch on your e-brake that pops the brake light on when it is raised. Maybe this might be the simple fix for your brake light drama. It is located under the console where the teeth are at down from the brake handle. Sometimes these little switches will come out of adjustment of be loose or even just be dirty. You might simply not have the brake handle all the way down. Next try pulling your e-brake up and do a half dozen times or so and you might notice the light flickering or sometimes going off and sometime being stuck on. Hopefully this one won't be too much trouble for you.


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Re: New Car
Thursday, October 02, 2014 7:55 AM
Orlen Brown wrote:

There is a switch on your e-brake that pops the brake light on when it is raised. Maybe this might be the simple fix for your brake light drama. It is located under the console where the teeth are at down from the brake handle. Sometimes these little switches will come out of adjustment of be loose or even just be dirty. You might simply not have the brake handle all the way down. Next try pulling your e-brake up and do a half dozen times or so and you might notice the light flickering or sometimes going off and sometime being stuck on. Hopefully this one won't be too much trouble for you.


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Thanks again Orlen for both of your replies, you've been a great help so far. I know the handle is down all the way but I haven't tried playing with it. Again thanks a lot I'll give that a try.
Re: New Car
Thursday, October 02, 2014 2:09 PM
You window rattle could be several reasons. Window could be loose to the mount the regulator hooks to. There are a couple of rivets that holds the glass to that mount. The glass could be off the tracks in the door . The window sweeps are rotted away and gone. Thin pieses of rubber at the base of the glass - the window sweeps are the holy grail of J-Body parts. You can get aftermarket pieces but you have to take the glass out and remove the bracket holding the sweep, and rebuild a sweep on the old bracket. I've done this and it works well, but it is a lot of work and tedious. Best thing to do is take your inner door panel off and have a good look around inside. I recommend getting a can of white lithium grease (Wally World sells it in the tools section-why I dunno) and a can cost $6 but it goes a long way Spray the tracks and the teeth on the regulator and as well inside the regulator as you can get to. This stuff quietens the squeaks and helps you get as many years out for your regulator as possible.regulators are not much fun to get or replace.

The seat belt light is activated by a wire that hooks to your buckle on the right hand side of your drivers seat. The passengers side doesn't have one nor any of the rears.Most likely the wire has come disconnected.under the seat.

Lack of engine power can be dozens of potential problems and you will just have to track them down one at a time.3 things come first to mind - need to get your codes read to see what is going on there. 2nd would be a compression test on the cylinders to make sure you aren't beating dead duck. Last is a common problem - clogged catalytic converter. Only test for that one is to either disconnect the exhaust and see it that helps or cut your pier just after the cat and ram a long piece of all thread into the cat and bust up the catalyst. I'd start the car and blow the old crap out and put the exhaust back together ans see if you got more power then. None of these things could be the source of your troubles though.

Just take your time , work on one thing at a time and don't get overwhelmed. You have the best car....Hahaa. I is NOT running perfect and boring as hell! ( ever notice how guys get a car all fixed up and sweet - get bored with it and sell it off) It will keep you involved! Enjoy your journey my friend!



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Re: New Car
Thursday, October 02, 2014 9:00 PM
Thanks orlen for the info once again. You are very helpful! I fixed my brake light issue... It was just a little low on fluid, I didn't check it right off hand because my brakes were working fine, and I didn't think it was leaking or anything, so I assume I must have a small leak somewhere? I have a bigger issue on my hand now, tonight when I went to leave work, I put the car in reverse... nothing happened, I played with it for a while but nothing happened. After pushing my car out of the spot I put it in drive, and no issue at all with the other gears. I thought maybe it would start working after it warmed up and such, however after the 30 minute drive home I tried the reverse again, and nothing. My reverse is gone! Is this a common issue with these cars? Is it possibly a simple fix? Also if It's not a simple fix, will a tranny from a '93 fit without issue or will I have to swap axles, harness, etc? Thanks for any help once again.
Re: New Car
Friday, October 03, 2014 2:39 AM
Although the automatics in these cars are pretty bullet-proof you can definitely loose reverse in them - had a neighbor with a 3rd gen that did the same thing. You might double check your shift linkage just to make certain you are in reverse when you shift there. On the other hand the 93 will swap in nicely.

As cheap as they come nowadays and still fairly easy to come by it is not a bad idea to keep a spare automatic handy - for that "just in case" if you have room for one.

Sorry to read of your luck - your Cav must have had a pretty hard life!


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Re: New Car
Friday, October 03, 2014 8:26 AM
Thanks a lot. All the other gears are fine, neutral is neutral, drive is drive, etc, so I assume reverse is reverse, its just gone. For the past week or so I've had to give it a lot of gas to back up out of my driveway, yesterday morning when I left for work I had to hold the pedal on the floor to get up out of my driveway, I just thought it was a lack of power, but maybe it was just getting ready to go out. The car was owned by a flagger before me and he was pretty hard on it. The engine really runs great, I almost never see a CEL it just lacks a little bit of power and the serpentine belt squeals when It's cold. I think maybe it was well taken care of until the last guy got his hands on it. I'm not really sure of the mileage as it says almost 86,000 but I'm sure it rolled over, just don't know how many times, lol. I may be able to get my hands on a tranny from a '93 pretty cheap. Thanks again for your help.
Re: New Car
Friday, October 03, 2014 8:55 AM
Just in case anyone was interested here are a few pics








Re: New Car
Friday, October 03, 2014 2:51 PM
Looks like a clean car. No rust which is a definite advantage!

I like the grill and headlights on that year and one day hope to pick up those at my local yard and see if they will swap on my 94 sedan.

Loosing reverse is a bummer. My neighbor drove his for about 6 months without reverse. He just made sure he parked on a hill facing up anywhere he'd have to back up the next time he got in. I imagine that this latest setback along with all the other issues probably has you pondering your options at this time. Fix this one with a donor or use this one as a donor for another - sometimes life will nudge you in one direction or another.

Keep us posted Brandon!


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Re: New Car
Friday, October 03, 2014 9:51 PM
Orlen Brown wrote:

Looks like a clean car. No rust which is a definite advantage!

I like the grill and headlights on that year and one day hope to pick up those at my local yard and see if they will swap on my 94 sedan.

Loosing reverse is a bummer. My neighbor drove his for about 6 months without reverse. He just made sure he parked on a hill facing up anywhere he'd have to back up the next time he got in. I imagine that this latest setback along with all the other issues probably has you pondering your options at this time. Fix this one with a donor or use this one as a donor for another - sometimes life will nudge you in one direction or another.

Keep us posted Brandon!


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Thanks a lot orlen. The car is absolutely rust free on the outside. The drunk has about a 4 inch hole in it, and when you open the doors there are a few holes on the... well I'm not sure what its called, but the body is very clean and strait. I wish the previous owner hadn't painted it. It used to be a beautiful silver color. I will never use this car as a donor. I like it too much, and 2nd gen coupes are very rare around here. I've had a few people offer to buy it off of me, and that was when I had a bag over the window, lol. The answer has always been no and always will be. I've owned many many cars and I've only ever been passionate about 2 of them. The first one was my first car, a 1995 Firebird, 6 banger 5 speed, beautiful car, absolutely base but tastefully modded, she had the V8 tailights, sweet 15 inch aftermarket rims with big meaty wide tires, nice subs and amp to deliver crisp clear sound, but before I get too carried away, I would still be driving that car today if I hadn't lost it when I did. Anyhow the second car is this cavalier I'm driving now. I won't get rid of it unless it's pried from my hand somehow. No amount of money could buy it. I have a vision for the car. I want to put the Z24 ground effects and hood on it but I don't want to claim it's a Z24. I want it to look like it but I still want people to know its not, lol. I wanna put a set of 16 inch chrome rims from a newer cavi on it, aftermarket gauges if I can figure out how the heck to wire them up, have it painted, I was thinking burnt orange metallic (yes the duplicolor paint shop) with a black top. I have an uncle who does professional paint jobs in his garage and would probably do it free. Just moderate modifications, creature comforts, etc. Thanks for reading.
Re: New Car
Saturday, October 04, 2014 2:24 PM
Orlen Brown wrote:

I like the grill and headlights on that year and one day hope to pick up those at my local yard and see if they will swap on my 94 sedan.
They will. Here is a thread on what all needs to be changed.
http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/phase-1-to-phase-2-t117144,highlight,phase++bumber+phase.html
IMO, it is best to switch the wiring harness for the lights from the Phase I to your Phase II. Direct change over and no splicing required to get the 4 light headlights working. If anything you might need to extend the wires going to the windscreen washer pump, since it was moved to in front of the lelf front wheel well.
I'm changing the whole front end on my 92 Z24 Convertible over to Phase I Z24. I have everything needed except the hood and I've been checking the LKQ salvage yard websites daily for one to show up in my area. Hoping to get it soon, since I want to get the car painted now that the heat and humidity here in Florida will be much lower for the next few months.

Sorry for going off topic, I just wanted to let you know that changing just the grille and headlights is very easy and straight forward.
Re: New Car
Saturday, October 04, 2014 7:57 PM
Great information, I also wondered if the headlights would interchange. Does anyone know what the factory 5 speed tranny would have been for this car.. 1990 2.2

Re: New Car
Sunday, October 05, 2014 3:18 AM
Thank You Butch!!

I had no idea there was so much difference between Phase1 and Phase 2. This Sedan is my 1st - 2nd gen as I have gained most my knowledge on the 1st gens. I truly appreciate your post my friend! A possible long term swap down the road for me but no.... not the cute-simple-quick idea I had in my head!! Hahaaa.

Does make me ponder the whole Z24 front end swap thing- if I am already going to change the headlights though. Nothing like daydreaming Hahaa...


I think the 4 cyl. - 5spd is pretty much standard stuff across the 2nd gen territory and probably even the 1st gen as well. The 4 speed was supposed to be heavy duty. Finding all the parts you gonna need is the real challenge. You'll need everything from the pilot bearing through the axle shafts. Shifter, console, cables,pedals,master cylinder, and even the ECU is different since it controls the lock-up on the torque converter which the manual doesn't have. Not sure if you have to swap out the wiring harness or not. Not sure if the auto and manual engine/trans mounts are the same either.

Unfortunately - like the headlight swap idea - the 5- speed swap isn't a cute-simple-quick one either. Just will take the time , parts and determination.


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Re: New Car
Sunday, October 05, 2014 5:54 AM
Brandon Scheuvront wrote:

Great information, I also wondered if the headlights would interchange. Does anyone know what the factory 5 speed tranny would have been for this car.. 1990 2.2
I believe only the Isuzu was offered with the 2.2. The Muncie was used with the V6 cars.

Orlen Brown wrote:

Thank You Butch!!
You're quite welcome.
Re: New Car
Sunday, October 05, 2014 9:07 PM
So, something kind of strange happened tonight. When I left work, I stopped at sheetz, forgetting my reverse didn't work I pulled into a spot. When I left I put the car in reverse, and to my surprise the car backed itself out of the spot. When I tried to give it gas it was a now go but it will slowly coast itself backward. Now this was level lot no decline or incline. In neutral the car would not move. How could this be, that the car will coast itself backward but will not accept throttle?
Re: New Car
Monday, October 06, 2014 4:37 PM
My Sunbird did the same thing when I got it, so I changed the 131K orange- black fluid and guess what? Lost all reverse ! I think it worked once more after that and I drove it like that for 8 months till I changed the trans. ( I guess the reverse clutches go out first or the reverse valve in the valve body sticks )

I used www.car-part.com and found a allready pulled and cleaned 88K mile trans for $125 with a 90 day warranty close by ( when I lived in AZ) . Some trans shops will R&R just the trans for you , so check around for cheap R&R pricing also.

I did mine at home over here 8 months later after the warranty expired and it took me a day and quarter..... couldnt be happier.....Still have the old trans as backup lying in the yard just in case.

Doug in P.R.


92 Pontiac Sunbird LE, 2.0, AT, Red / Black with Grey 143 K miles.Slowly getting back to a halfway decent car............in Salinas, Puerto Rico!




Re: New Car
Wednesday, October 15, 2014 8:03 AM
Can anyone tell me how to remove the driver side fender on this thing? Just need to pop out a dent. I know there are like 3 or 4 bolts on top, and like 2 on the bottom? Please help.
Re: New Car
Wednesday, October 15, 2014 7:21 PM
Picture is worth a thousand words!

Bolt #1 requires removal of cowl - so I included one for that as well.







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Re: New Car
Wednesday, October 15, 2014 7:39 PM
Orlen Brown wrote:

Picture is worth a thousand words!

Bolt #1 requires removal of cowl - so I included one for that as well.







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That's awesome man thanks a bunch, need to get me one of those darn books
Re: New Car
Friday, October 17, 2014 8:02 PM
Hello all, just wanted to post some pictures of some recent (attempted) rust repair in my trunk. It's not finished yet but I don't think it's too bad for a quick job using what little I had.
This is what it looked like when I pulled back the carpet and took the foam out. Little bit of water.


I knocked out a little more but didn't spend too much time on it.


I cleaned up outside behind the wheel real well and sprayed the inside and outside with rust prevention spray to hopefully stop it from spreading any worse for now. The I just stuck some high strength tape on the outside so I could spread my putty and it wouldn't fall out of place.


And here it is as it sits now, this Sunday I'm gonna finish it up as well as I can.


Now I know many people will probably look at this and say, what a dumbass! But this is only temporary. Just to keep the water out of my trunk for now. It is very solid as it sits and I think it should hold up well for a while. I know they make better stuff for this but I just used some bondo I bought probably 9 months ago, some gorilla tape I keep laying around, a putty knife that was laying in my room, and a can of rust stop thats been in the building for a few years.. So it cost me virtually nothing and it took me 15 minuets to do it. When it fails me I will do a better job at fixing it.
This is the little things I'm doing to the car right now until I can afford to do better. I just a job at advance auto delivering parts, which is freaking awesome and it sure pays better than my previous jobs. So better things to come. My next purchase will be shocks/struts because there are completely SHOT all the way around, and I get a 20% discount so.. yea.
Anyhow I have a small question about wiring. When I got the car I stuck a pair of brand new sony xplod speakers in the back, and since then one has never worked, I though bad speaker but I took them out yesterday and swapped them around and both speakers are good. When I have the ignition in the run position the one side is just really low, but if I turn it up it works well, however when I turn the car on, I get a lot of static from it. I've tried switching the positive and negative but does nothing. What could cause this?
Re: New Car
Saturday, October 18, 2014 7:33 PM
Wires are probally corroded at a connector some where between the radio and the trunk. ( common problem )

Doug in P.R.


92 Pontiac Sunbird LE, 2.0, AT, Red / Black with Grey 143 K miles.Slowly getting back to a halfway decent car............in Salinas, Puerto Rico!




Re: New Car
Saturday, October 18, 2014 9:42 PM
92Sunbird PuertoRico wrote:

Wires are probally corroded at a connector some where between the radio and the trunk. ( common problem )

Doug in P.R.


Thanks! If I get the time tomorrow, and if the weather will allow, I'll pull everything out and see of i can find it.

Re: New Car
Sunday, October 19, 2014 11:21 AM
Usually under the sill panels on GM cars or under the back seat. My 92 "Bird has one in the trunk on the drivers side trunk hinge area .

Doug in P.R.


92 Pontiac Sunbird LE, 2.0, AT, Red / Black with Grey 143 K miles.Slowly getting back to a halfway decent car............in Salinas, Puerto Rico!




Re: New Car
Sunday, October 19, 2014 3:26 PM
Brandon Scheuvront wrote:

Hello all, just wanted to post some pictures of some recent (attempted) rust repair in my trunk. It's not finished yet but I don't think it's too bad for a quick job using what little I had.
This is what it looked like when I pulled back the carpet and took the foam out. Little bit of water.


I knocked out a little more but didn't spend too much time on it.


I cleaned up outside behind the wheel real well and sprayed the inside and outside with rust prevention spray to hopefully stop it from spreading any worse for now. The I just stuck some high strength tape on the outside so I could spread my putty and it wouldn't fall out of place.


And here it is as it sits now, this Sunday I'm gonna finish it up as well as I can.


Now I know many people will probably look at this and say, what a dumbass! But this is only temporary. Just to keep the water out of my trunk for now. It is very solid as it sits and I think it should hold up well for a while. I know they make better stuff for this but I just used some bondo I bought probably 9 months ago, some gorilla tape I keep laying around, a putty knife that was laying in my room, and a can of rust stop thats been in the building for a few years.. So it cost me virtually nothing and it took me 15 minuets to do it. When it fails me I will do a better job at fixing it.
This is the little things I'm doing to the car right now until I can afford to do better. I just a job at advance auto delivering parts, which is freaking awesome and it sure pays better than my previous jobs. So better things to come. My next purchase will be shocks/struts because there are completely SHOT all the way around, and I get a 20% discount so.. yea.
Anyhow I have a small question about wiring. When I got the car I stuck a pair of brand new sony xplod speakers in the back, and since then one has never worked, I though bad speaker but I took them out yesterday and swapped them around and both speakers are good. When I have the ignition in the run position the one side is just really low, but if I turn it up it works well, however when I turn the car on, I get a lot of static from it. I've tried switching the positive and negative but does nothing. What could cause this?


I'd have someone weld some metal in there instead of using bondo as that is a very stressed point of the unibody structure.








Re: New Car
Sunday, October 19, 2014 8:51 PM
I understand that this could cause some damage but this is what I have to do to get by for now. I have access to a welder anytime I need it but I don't know how to use it yet. I will teach my self before too long. For now it will have to stay like this and hopefully It doesn't do any major damage. Once I get another vehicle I'm gonna park this one so I can give it the love it needs. Thanks for the input
Re: New Car
Monday, October 20, 2014 7:05 PM
Orlen Brown wrote:

I think the 4 cyl. - 5spd is pretty much standard stuff across the 2nd gen territory and probably even the 1st gen as well. The 4 speed was supposed to be heavy duty. Finding all the parts you gonna need is the real challenge. You'll need everything from the pilot bearing through the axle shafts. Shifter, console, cables,pedals,master cylinder, and even the ECU is different since it controls the lock-up on the torque converter which the manual doesn't have. Not sure if you have to swap out the wiring harness or not. Not sure if the auto and manual engine/trans mounts are the same either.


That's a whole lot of stuff you don't need to change. All you really need is- trans, axles, shifter, clutch pedal/master, cables, and engine mount-to-block brackets. No need to swap the harness, or the ECM.

It is true you'll have a very hard time finding all of it without buying a donor car.



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