No worries..we will have pics up very soon

Hurry along Jeffie wants



JGM T-SHIRTS!!!!

In Loving Memory of Phil Martin December 14 2005
Alexis: Dustin, you're ghey, lol. I am better. I have tits, and tits rule all.

Lol. I have come across MANY non-abs setups at the local pull-n-pay lots. Even found several Bonneville setups. You just need to know what you're looking for.

I'll grab them if anyone really wants them.

you realize the Jbody brake lines wont fit into those right?

Any updates on this?



J-Body Of Michigan Ducati Monster Forum Xceedspeed GMSCF.com

yeah im interested also....

i completed this mod a while back...made a whole other thread about how well it worked and how much space it saved in the bay. but i guess alot you guys missed that thread.
i would like to thank all the guys that supported me and ordered a master cyl. , not like i made a ton of money off it but enough to support the work i put into it. i have yet to hear any complaints
from anyone who installed one, myself and baggednine7 were the first 2 to try it and i must say its sooo much nicer to have the extra room in the bay, not to mention how much cleaner it looks.
i have had NO brake issues at all, ive taken it on long trips, city driving, drag racing, etc. and i still see no reason NOT to do this mod. unless your just a sorry driver and dont know how to stop properly.....in that case you should probably never go without abs.

For those that are still interested in this would you like me to make a how to with a few pics ?

Yes yes..How to would be awesome!



J-Body Of Michigan Ducati Monster Forum Xceedspeed GMSCF.com

im with this guy ^

how to FTW

Listening.



Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!

putting together the pics...sorry i work 2 jobs so i gotta find some time to actually make this up right

Good stuff



J-Body Of Michigan Ducati Monster Forum Xceedspeed GMSCF.com

I'm waiting too since I can't bleed the abs system from it going bone dry.
So I'm now in the market for something custom or what is available here.
Once again, getting the car on the ground is delayed.
Hurry up already.


Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!

scott (section8cav) wrote:

yea, im not sure what you mean by 00+ where as ANY Jbody ive seen had a module or distribution block of SOME kind....this eliminates ALL that.
you will however need to take it to a brake shop to have it installed..as it calls for 2 of the 4 fittings to be changed..and brake lines have a "double flar" tip, so unless you have a double flar tool..which i doubt you do..you will need to take it to a shop and have them put the 2 fittings on, then bleed the brakes...done.

Just to clarify, the j-body (and all gm cars since 1985ish) use a metric ISO bubbble flare. There is a big difference between a "double flare" and a "bubble flare." This picture has a bubble flare on the left and a double flare on the right for reference.

Not trying to bust anyone's balls here, just trying to correct some misinformation. I'm looking forward to pics to see how how yours is to the way I did mine.

you are correct.
you will need to make an "ISO Flare" ..NOT a double flare...and thank you for the pic for reference..ill use it in the how-to if you dont mind

no problem.

Any updates or pics?

Yup, this.


I'm waiting for the new master cylinder to come in.
Once it's in, I'll then make the decision on what I need to do with the hookups.



Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!

And today, some revelation on ABS delete using your stock master cylinder.

Alright, here's the get go.
First, since the new master cylinder is actually identical to the factory unit, I had to change out the bowls to make the new master cylinder fit without hitting the strut bar.



Here's the similarities that made me change it around. The black bowls are from the new unit and the white one is the original.
You can see the fill top is toward the firewall which keeps you from using the black bowls.
Just pull the pins you see holding it down with a pair of vice grips and pop off the bowl from the master cylinder.



So I still keep the original setup that I had looking like this but 1/4 the weight of the abs module. That thing is heavy and consider this a weight reduction couple of points.






The following pictures will show you how to disassemble your own master cylinder/ abs module unit.
Once you remove everything off of the firewall, you have this.



There's two screws that hold down the black top/ bottom of the abs module so remove those and the cover should reveal the gear sets.



Next, there's two more screws to remove and once done, the entire black gearset and solenoid section should remove from the master cylinder as you can see below.




Next are the two screws that need to be removed to reveal the master cylinder from the abs module bracket.
Once done, you have this.






So in reality, you can just modify your existing master cylinder and have full abs delete and some weight savings too.
So what's the difference between this pictured below and what I bought.




So here's what I did.
I drilled out the two bottom holes for the heck of it with a 3/8 drill bit.
Once done, took out my 7/16 tap and tapped them out for this.




It worked and this adaptor is quite easy to use.
Also, the top two are 12mmx1.o which I've still got to do some research to see if they make a banjo bolt for that size. It's already setup as a banjo that all is needed are some proper bolts.
Or they can be drilled out too to the 7/16 size.

With a proper flare tool, you could reflare your factory hardlines to 37 degree AN size for an easy setup to your now adapted to AN master cylinder.



I should've seen this long before now.
So we can actually have abs delete with out stuff.
Nice.
I'll continue with this as I get more information on the setup.

With the new unit having 4 different connections on the master cylinder, I may just continue with mine that I took off the car once modified and continue on with it.
But then again, I wanted to go with new too.

Thanks for looking.


Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!

This is what I was talking about being banjo but not actually using a banjo type setup.


This would be used on the two top ports along with these to make it AN compatible.


And these would be used for the lower ports, two each.


There' you now have a master cylinder with 4 ports that are AN.
Two holes to drill and tap and you're set with the above.




Cost of all this including tools looks to be in the 150 dollar area for all the parts necessary.
Kind of expensive but looking at the master cylinder I just bought, it has 4 different lines that attach to the m/c.
We'll see how I decide in the next couple of days with this. I gotta have some brakes.




Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!

very cool blu. im very interested, and listening.

Jon, with the exception of trying to figure out which port goes where on the corners of the brakes, and flaring the ends, it's not that bad of a mod.

When you take apart the abs module bracket from the master cylinder, as you separate the two pieces, you'll notice that the top two ports are threaded with 12mx1.0 threading and the bottom two ports have no threads at all.
This is why I thought it would be easy just to tap the two lower ports for an AN fitting since that's all it needed.
You can drill the holes a bit deeper but can't go too far into the master cylinder without ruining it. I figure about a quarter inch or so is necessary to get enough threads into the ports for a fitting to hold.

Most of the cost of all this comes from having to buy a flare tool which I don't have, the adaptor fittings for the m/c, and actual stainless lines which I would figure would be in the 12 inch range.
There is also the possibility that if everything works out right, the stainless lines may not be necessary if the reflared ends are done right and should be able to directly be able to hook up to the master cylinder, like factory.

So that's the decisions that have to be made in the next couple of days.
The flare tool is the most critical component I need at the moment.

And drilling and tapping the just bought master cylinder isn't worth it as it's got 4 different sized ports that will probably have to have 3 an adaptors to make it work.
Sure, two of the ports will directly fit the original hardlines but then you've got to flare an ISO bubble flare to the end with the proper nut to fit the port. That's even more trouble to do because flaring the ISO bubble flares is something that you have to be good at and most here don't have that tool much less the experience to do it right the first time.

Now if anybody has the proportioning of the ports to which corner of the car they go to, that would be very helpful in getting this done.




Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!

Maybe this will help.

Thank you sir.
I would've thought it to be a different setup but hey, it works.
Thanks again.



Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!

You're welcome. It's the same diagram I used when I did mine and it works flawlessly.