just got mine finished, looks pretty good i think. all the lines are uniform and look OEM in style. i cut the two that didnt screw in off and since i had the fittings still in the master cylinder from the donor vehicle i just threw em on and re-flared them. viola!
soooooooooooo much cleaner looking, and saved about 12 pounds over the ABS unit.
I feel like taking a tinkle on an ecNOtec...
hey you were among the ten that got a picture message this afternoon, where you not?
I feel like taking a tinkle on an ecNOtec...
i wont come and do it (i have a family and tons of ish going on) but if you come here i'd most certainly do it.
just bring me the master with all the fittings from the stock vehicle. i got mine from an 89 calasis.
I feel like taking a tinkle on an ecNOtec...
Transporter7220 wrote:Personally I like to keep as much functionality as possible, so I tricked the PCM into thinking the ABS was still there.
You willing to modify another one for a fee?
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
If you have a soldering iron you can do it yourself, all you have to do is solder the leads onto the armature, but if you really want me to do it I'm sure we could work something out.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
I can solder thats not an issue.
Looking at the picture above, it does look fairly easy. 3 black wires on one side, 3 white wires on the opposite side, 1 blank space between black and white on each side, assuming the armature has 8 faces.
I guess Ill try it, seems pretty straight foward.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
I am seeing very little love for us that own Pre-00 models that want to do this ABS delete... scott (section8cav), sent you a PM. I like the minimalist look of your engine bay, and want to see if this can work for my ride.
Anyone address proportioning/bore sizing issues for those of us running the Neon Rear Disc Conversion kits?? I'm on my second master cylinder w/ ABS module that has fried. Want to toss the ABS once and for all!
Shoot me a PM if you have suggestions, please!
Very little love? Everything I've posted is for Pre-00.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
Same here so what's the issue?
I'm confused here.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
I guess I'm smoking crack then... It happens.
Saw multiple posts about removing ABS using a Tech II in 2000+ models. Thought the entire thread was dedicated to those years.
Metalball wrote:I guess I'm smoking crack then... It happens.
Saw multiple posts about removing ABS using a Tech II in 2000+ models. Thought the entire thread was dedicated to those years.
No, that was for removing the abs light on the dash. With the exception of putting tape over the bulb or doing what Transporter did with his setup, the TechII is the only other way to get into the PCM and take out the light.
Other than that all else applies.
Holler if you need any help.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Gotcha.
Anyone successfully figure out what make/model of master cylinder is being used in section8cav's vehicle? I figure that I will have to rebend the hardlines either way, whether I use his master cylinder or the +03 non-abs model.
LOL in reality this thread should say 95-99 ABS delete option.
its fairly easy, dont get discouraged. handle it!
Underdog Racing
Metalball wrote:Gotcha.
Anyone successfully figure out what make/model of master cylinder is being used in section8cav's vehicle? I figure that I will have to rebend the hardlines either way, whether I use his master cylinder or the +03 non-abs model.
Late 80's to very early 90's GM master cylinders will work. But the only issue with that is that they use 4 different thread types for the hydraulic line hookups.
I just used the stock setup that came with my car, pulled off the abs unit, drilled tapped the bottom two hydraulic connections, and got adapters to fit some stainless lines to the hardlines.
I forgot the sizing of the threads that were used so you'll have to do some experimentation on this or read through the latter part of this thread for some information on where to start.
Good luck with it.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
I believe I used M10x1 to -3an fittings in the master cylinder. The top two ports are already M10x1 so it was just easiest to tap the bottom two ports the same.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
mine out of an 89 calasis had 3 different fittings. two were the same... (exactly as the OEM j-body ones) i only had to re-flare and use two different ones...
Underdog Racing
Yeah, well, using the current master cylinder that I have from the Grand Prix isn't an option. Pretty sure that the valve is failing, as the passenger rear caliper has now been permanently clamped closed and won't release. Could just be the caliper itself (although refurbished a year ago when I did the neon swap). Still doesn't solve the ABS module issue. Plus, I already know the proportioning valve is incorrect for my application.
Any pointers on what to look for to find a decent master cylinder out of a pull-n-pay lot? Tired of finding units that work for less than 30k miles....
The master cylinder you are looking for comes out of early 90s olds calais,achieva, berettas, grand ams, etc..
its pretty easy to spot by its black resevoir, it will look just like it does in my pics. Remove the mc by taking off the two nuts holding it to the firewall, and cutting the 4 brake lines just behind the fittings, this way you can remove the fittings with a socket rather than risk rounding them off with a wrench. Keep the fittings, dont lose them.
On your way home stop by auto zone and borrow an "ISO flare" tool, its a very simple tool and a small pipe cutter, as you will want the cuts on YOUR lines to be very clean.
Remove your old MC,bolt the new one up to the firewall, cut the lines to the length you want, take the fittings from the new mc and put on the CORRECT line BEFORE you flare them
IMPORTANT: install fittings on line BEFORE flaring, as you can not install or remove fittings after you flare the lines.
no simply thread fittings into correct port on mc and hand tighten down, bleed the master and brake lines and your ready to roll !
make sure you put the correct fittings on the correct line, as each fitting is different and will only go in one port, and each port feeds a particular wheel.
any further questions plz ask Zyaa because he has just completed this mod with success and i am not in here very often.
Here is what it looks like.
I had an issue with the reservoir not wanting to fit because I added a secondary strut bar support so I found out that the reservoirs are interchangeable if you so desire to keep your old reservoir onto the early 90's mc. I also like the fact that you can see the fluid with the translucent reservoir and you can still use your carbon fiber cover too.
You'll see two pins (top picture at the bottom of the picture) holding in the reservoir to the mc body. They're easily removed with some vice grips and do be careful in removing them since you'll probably want to reuse these again to retain the reservoir to the mc body.
Once I found out that the early 90's mc had 4 different threaded connections to deal with, I just modified my original to make it easier on me.
I'd also never done any kind of flaring of brake lines so with my luck I'd have to cut back several times before I got it right for me to reconnect it back to the mc. It would've been my luck it would've come up short and then what.
Not only that but you can only bend the lines so much before they crimp and this too was my reasoning for how I did mine.
But Scott has it pretty much dead on in his way to do the job.
Also if you're worried about getting something from the junkyard that may not work, buy a new one from RockAuto.com. They're relatively cheap and it's new, not used so you'll have no issues with it for some time.
This is what I did but wound up throwing it away since I didn't want 4 different threadings on my mc.
Scotts way is probably the easiest to do and retains that factory look but there are many other options to go with.
Good luck all.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
james where do you get the 4 different fittings part? unless you got a different one mine off an 89 calasis had two that fit the stock lines. two did, two didnt.
Underdog Racing
there are 4 different threads / fittings , however 2 of the stock Jbody fittings fit...thats the difference .
there are 2 different bore sizes and 2 different thread types...so you have 2 larger fittings ,each with different thread,
then you have 2 smaller fittings each with different thread just like the larger ones.
thats on the MC side.
on the Jbody there are 2 different size fittings but unless im mistaken both larger ones have the same thread and both smaller ones have the same thread......i believe thats where the confusion was at brad..sorry
Exactly.
That's why I kept the stock 3rd gen master cylinder because I could drill and tap out the two bottom ports to my choosing.
So this way I only had to have two adapter fittings for my AN lines to make my setup.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Interesting. I guess it is off to the local pNp to find a MC. See what I can find available.
Thanks to everyone for the help!
