k i have time to do this now.
this install may not be for everyone. not to push anyone away from purchasing this product, but its definitely a bit of a pain and some may not have the abilities or access to the certain tools that can make this install as do-able as it was for me.
taking the fenders off takes a bit of time, but its easy enough.
take off the front wheels, take off the splash shields attached to the bumper, remove the 2 bolts that hold the fender to the bumper, remove the fender support bracket from the inside front of the wheel well (connects from the body to the bumper). remove the 8 push clips from the inner fender (the splash shield toward the rear of the wheel well). a panel removal tool helps. i left mine at work, so i destroyed them all getting them out and replaced them with some i had laying around. (if you have skirts) remove the single phillips head screw holding the skirt to the inner fender and yank that @!#$ out. remove the 3 push pins holding the inner fender insulator in. again, i destroyed mine. remove the 7mm screw behind the insulator, this holds the fender to the inner fender bracket. mark and remove the top bolts in the engine bay. mark and remove the 2 bolts that hold the lower hood hinge and fender to the body. open the door and remove the 7mm bolt between the door and body that holds the fender to the inner fender bracket. if you have side skirts remove the 2 forward most bolts that hold the skirts to the body, then take a flathead screwdriver and pop the 2 forward most clips out of the body. DON'T JUST YANK ON THE SKIRT, THE TABS WILL BREAK. learned that one the hard way... gently pull the skirt away from the body and remove the 2 bolts holding the bottom of the fender to the pinch weld. 95-99 guys can just pull the bulb out of the corner lens and the lens will come off with the fender. like this:
thats it. pull your fender off. you'll need to take the inner fender bracket out as well. once you get the fender off its 2 7mm bolts.
first thing i noticed after getting my fenders off was this
no box on mine. instead theres just a hole. both sides. in all honesty the hole helps with the install, as i don't know how i would've gotten the front two bolts on without it.
if you have the box, i wish you luck as i have no idea how the front hardware is supposed to go in. seeing as how i had the hole, i did something different. but ill get to that.
next i removed the door hinge hardware (the door will drop a bit, just make sure its closed and latched before you remove the hardware). throw out the 2 bolts that come out of each side, just un-thread the nuts enough to slide the braces onto the studs. i tried sliding the braces on, and noticed the slots on the braces didn't lineup 100% to the studs. i took my air powered grinder to the slots to open them up a bit more. after being able to slide the braces on i noticed (on both sides) that the bottom bolt holes didn't lineup. this was because the brace was hitting the door hinge in a spot. i had to notch out the bottom of the brace a tad to make it work, so i went at it with the grinder again:
now for hardware, i used almost all my own. out of the 8 or 10 or so bolts that mark sent, i only used 2. allen keys suck for that tight of an area. i used metric bolts with 13mm heads, made life a lot easier for me. if you use mark's hardware i would at the very least suggest picking up some good lock washers. i used a washers and lock washers on each bolt.
after sliding the brace onto the studs i installed the 2 bolts on each door just hand tight. picked 2 good spots to drill, and went to town with a 5/16 drill bit on the front of the brace, then drilled straight through the steel body. i then removed the braces.
at this point if you don't have the hole in the body i have 0 idea how you would make this work. i picked 2 long enough bolts and 2 good washers and stuck them through the holes i made in the body through the opening from the inside. slide the braces back on over the bolts in the body, put a washer and lock washer and nut on each bolt sticking through and hit it with my 3/8 impact gun. got em as tight as that could, then installed the bolts in the door hinges. blasted them back in and tightened up the nuts.
next is re-install of the fender. its pretty much the same as removal, only you have to do a bit of modifying to the inner fender bracket.
you have to trim a good amount of material off of the bracket to get it to fit over the brace. it took a lot of back and forth test fitting and grinding. i had to elongate the top bolt hole where the bracket bolts to the body, and very slightly bend the bracket to get it to fit 100%. it worked out pretty well though.
(for a before pic of the bracket, look at the pic of the hole)
the way i saw it, theres almost no way to use the fender insulators without some heavy cutting. so i left them out. they're just plastic, and sit behind the splash shields, so i see no use for em.
the rest of the install is the same as removal.
overall its not a super hard install. everything that i did with a grinder can be done with a hacksaw, or file, it would just take much longer that way. and again, it your car has the box on the body, i'm clueless as to how the front hardware is supposed to mount up.
i also had a bit of time to take the car on a little drive through some of my favorite twisties. my initial feelings about this are very good. seems like more of a positive feel in cornering. theres one very tight hairpin uphill corner in the route i take, and i was able to noticeably take it faster than i usually am. i can definitely tell theres less flex in the front, and that the suspension is being forced to do its job more. it seems to have smoothed out the ride a bit as a bi-product of that. so far i'm very happy with it.