So worse case scenerio is if you use Jbody knuckle use Jbody ball joint and Nbody use Nbody ball joint.
I can live with that
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I understand what you are saying and can see the measurements. BUT with the stud being longer it should effect the taper, it is a linear taper though so it is still the same angle. All it is doing is making the knuckle sit at a higher spot with the taller stud. Your not accounting for the differences in the knuckles themselves or where the balljoint bolts to the arm steel vs aluminum. Im not debating that the aluminum arm one is slightly different, what I am saying is with a j knuckle run the j balljoint on the aluminum arm and its fine. Thats my setup and havent fully looked into other combinations of parts. Working on that....
Well then..... our disagreement is rendered moot then.
I was under the impression that you were saying that you can use the J-body ball joints with the aluminum spindles and vice-versa. I know that switching the ball joints between each arm is just fine, like you said grease zerk placement is the main difference. So we aren't even arguing the same point.
Just mix/matching the aluminum spindles with steel ball joints, ect, is a bad idea. I checked this out when I had the Grand Am spindles by physically matching the two together, before I decided to postpone the NWF swap. Aluminum ball joint with the iron spindle will have it sit higher on the stud and the boot won't seal. Steel ball joint with aluminum spindle is a big no-no. It most definitely sits too low, and it could bottom out.
Oh well, at least we got some measurements and clarification on both ends, so not all was lost.
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Jason- iirc that bearing turned out to be a110 and 115 not 115 and 100....I'lll have to double check.
ok. like i said i just happen to run across that. and again curious to why not redrill the hub and rotor? you would only have to get one rotor redrilled to 100 then use it to redrill the bearings and other rotors. like a template.
My reason for starting this thread was to find a 100% bolt on setup that would keep the 5x100 pattern so I wouldnt need different wheels, still go to 11in brakes and cut the unsprung weight for the handling benefits. If I planned on getting different rims I'd never have started this thread to get idea's going. I want to keep my nippon wheels and bogart drag wheels.
^^^ yup, same here. all of my wheels are 5X100. screw spending thousands on new wheels when you could spend a couple hundo, get larger brakes, lighter components, and still keep same wheels.
Ok so why don't some one come up with redrilled wheel bearing and rotors unless you found a 5x100 rotor that measures the same specs as the n body rotor. To me that would be bolt on and go. One person setup with a machinist to do this instead of a bracket adapter.
Zyaaaa - you think whoever is able to make your adapters could just redrill the bearings and repress in the studs?
From what I looked into, we could possibly use a toyota celica gt rotor, specs are almost identical in every aspect. I want to say the overall diameter was slightly smaller. If I remember correctly I posted that info up already here. Also why would you want to mod the wheel bearings? What if you need a replacement and don't have time to wait for the machinist to mod new bearings......
To me redrilling a wheel bearing might be the answer to your problem of finding the correct wheel bearing with the correct bolt pattern. I understand the problem of not directly off the shelf bolt in. But with a wheel bearing being one of the less common wear items I would follow that route. If your worried about machine turnaround time have 3 of them done at once so you have that spare. To me that is a small issue for having a custom brake setup. And also most likely cheaper than buy just one willowood or bear rotor and having to wait on the issues. Trust me I understand custom issues. I just hope I don't have any strut issues with me irs swap with air ride. Lol just trying to help on making it less complex than it already is.
I saw your irs with air ride thread. I did find a 5x100 pattern wheel bearing with the same 3 bolt knuckle pattern btw from looking at specs online. I've just not looked at them in person yet as I still neeed the knuckles. The wheel bearing I found is off a 96 chrysler concord lx 3.3 v6 I just dont know the hub diameter yet and You'd loose abs...
Chrysler Concordes have a 5x114.3 pattern from 93-04. Where did you find the specs? I suspect it is simply an error on the page you were looking at.
The other thing that you'd need to check is the diameter and number of splines on the axle.
Spline nubber mached up to jbodys with the chrysler but I never got a chance to kill time at the parts counter and see if they fit, I checked on rock auto and autozone's pages
Thanks for the link, I'll have to kill some time later when I'm free on that site.
Anybody been working on this?
I'm working on it, and progress has been made
lol you suck man, if you beat me to this im going to kill you.
LOL. Brad, I told you over a year ago I could do this for you. What happened that you started trying to research a way to do it?
Don't even need 5 people.
lol me research? ahaha i saw that james cahill did it and drooled and said get r dun!
exciting stuff! Onward gentlemen. Any plans for 5x100 on the n body rear swap?
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Looking good....I really want in on this one haha