oh and for those maybe wondering... they are stainless.
cool, whats pricing looking like?
that i dont know yet... i know the material wasnt cheap.
My only question is since the factory bearings will be used, will the stock axles be able to compensate for the extra length since the bearings will be out further???
And if so, would it work with stock aluminum control arms or will they have to be modified to shorten the length???
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
the bearings will not be stuck out... you are supposed to machine the difference out of the knuckles. like cahill did on his h-body knuckles...
Ok. So are people using modified or stock length control arms with these, or is it all still prototyping?
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
lol its ALL in the mock up stage. ive got stock unmodded i plan on running with n-body 5 spd axles on tein ss's and modded i plan on running these adapters with so...
I plan on modding mine once I get around to it....and if Brad gets more made up I'll prob save lots of time searching for a wheel bearing option that works.
looks like around $200 bucks for a set. (stainless) then its up to YOU to get ur knuckles machined or if you're a failure and cant seem to locate someone close to do it you can send to me and i can get them done.
will be done on a core set-up...
slowzee- (wtf is ur name, god i fail) he said he could do mild steel but doesnt want to hear about it when they rust
knuckles got machined tonight, smooth sailing. thinking about maybe making the adapters beefier for the inside of the bore though....
Nice work Brad. My control arms are already modified and painted. Oh well, I have camber plates, LOL.
Jason
99 Z24
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
Id be happy with mild steel...screw shiny stuff Ill never look at haha
It could be hard coated or powder coated to prevent rust. I've been thinking about picking up a set and playing around with it.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
not gonna be made from aluminum. we want the strength of steel.
Gotcha.....prolly be in for a set once I see it all done
So this is an adapter that is going to go into the n-body knuckle in to adapt from the n-body hub to j-body hub? What is preventing you from just modifying the n-body knuckle for the j-body hub?
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Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:So this is an adapter that is going to go into the n-body knuckle in to adapt from the n-body hub to j-body hub? What is preventing you from just modifying the n-body knuckle for the j-body hub?
There is no where to put the 3 holes in it. The bolt pattern diameter of the bearing to spindle bolts is just bigger than the big hole in the spindle. That's what the raised portion on the backside of the adapter is for, to add material to put a hole in. You can see how the inner bolt circle isn't fully in the spindle in this pic-
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weighed each knuckle... stock is 10.6 pounds, modded n-body is exactly 4 pounds. so, a weight savings of around 6 pounds per wheel. thats pretty damn good.. right about the difference of forged vs cast wheels.
and FINALLY... after all my ideas, thoughts and wanting this done for so long.. its REAL!!! muahahaahahhahha
the knuckles took a lot of machining.. this will not be cheap. be planning on at least $100 a knuckle plus shipping if you send them to me.
i totally forgot you can use f-body calipers on these things. so, what does that mean? oh yes... f-body brake kits available lol and the sky is the limit.
look at around $400-$420 for this whole setup. spendy i know and for just a mere 12 pound weight savings BUT... think about that extra money you popped for forged wheels trying to save weight. think about how for every 100 pounds of UNSPRUNG weight you ditch its worth A LOT in a 1/4 mile. think about having a professional setup with more brake options than we could ever need. think about the option for a 6 piston, yes i said a 6 PISTON setup if ur heart so desires. this can make it happen WHILE keeping weight down.
here's what i have in mind for me
F-body 11.75" wilwood DRAG setup for my n/a car. this setup should be WAY lighter than stock and be WAY bigger. will it last 100,000 miles and take abuse for daily driving? well who knows but i dont care, im in it for the weight savings, PERIOD. im hoping i can just order a j-body kit hat so no redilling will be necessary.
thoughts?
(brandon fetter, where the hell are you?!!?!?!?! this setup is right up ur alley!!!!)
IIRC, you will have to modify the hub centers and lug pattern on the rotors if you use the factory j-body hubs and want to upgrade the brakes.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Roofy wrote:IIRC, you will have to modify the hub centers and lug pattern on the rotors if you use the factory j-body hubs and want to upgrade the brakes.
Have to do that no matter what with this setup
From what I was looking into the front rotors off a 2000 celica gts have the 5x100 pattern with almost spot on specs for hat depth for correct mounting, but are like 2 mm shorter in diameter....otherwise the match the n body specs for an 11 in rotor
That looks great, but have you considered that you changed the offset now?
What brakes are you considering to run.
The oem rotors and calipers might not work even if redrilled, because the caliper offset will not match up with the centeline of the rotor.
Bobby Higgins wrote:That looks great, but have you considered that you changed the offset now?
What brakes are you considering to run.
The oem rotors and calipers might not work even if redrilled, because the caliper offset will not match up with the centeline of the rotor.
I am under the impression that the face of the N-body knuckle was machined down to offset the thickness of the added spacer.
Jason
99 Z24
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren