itys true the car grabs very good.
Soo anyone ever get any pics of these in stalled?
I didnt realize there were this many people running these with no problems or any other supporting parts. I did poly bushings in my stock arms not long ago cause didnt wana have to find someone to weld up the n-body arms, but now thinking about running unmodded aluminum arms and having mark put in spherical bushings. I have tein basics with solid rear mounts and getting in on the gp for marks camber front mounts so can fix any camber issues if so...thoughts?
Brad and/or Paul:
One thing on my mind is how much camber was added that you had to make up for?
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
Tinkles(now with Boost Face) wrote:Brad and/or Paul:
One thing on my mind is how much camber was added that you had to make up for?
My feelings the same.
If you were to not mod the arms does that even give you the capability to give the front some negative camber if you're going to be autocrossing or going to track days?
Somebody want to chime in on this with some answers?
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
I havent actually measured but mine wasnt noticeably cambered. I ran it very hard all summer and other than making bald tires, theres no extra inner wear or feathering. I dont understand why everyone is so afraid of running these when most are TRYING to add camber anyway.
I want the camber but want to bring mine into stock specs.
Misnblu wrote:Tinkles(now with Boost Face) wrote:Brad and/or Paul:
One thing on my mind is how much camber was added that you had to make up for?
My feelings the same.
If you were to not mod the arms does that even give you the capability to give the front some negative camber if you're going to be autocrossing or going to track days?
Somebody want to chime in on this with some answers?
james... it should allow some negative camber by nature. you'd be pushing the bottom part of the strut/knuckle outward thus creating negative camber. i believe they were talking about maxing out the camber plates towards the positive side to get the car back into "proper" alignment.
the issue I see is trying to run these with an aggressive offset and/or big brakes where the wheels are already pushed out in the wheel well. in my case, I think i'd be munching fender without modding them.
Got it. Thanks Spence.
RedCavalac, have you got any pictures of your setup for others to see how it looks?
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
So I am going to be running this set up. Unmodded N-Body control arms, knuckle, 5x115 hub with either Tein SS or STD R-5s. I just got the control arms, knuckle and spindle for $180 it will be a couple of month before I get everything together but I will get pics of the install and alignment read out.
Semi-Unrelated question, I just got my alignment done because when I did my clutch it threw everything out of wack. Now I am showing LR .018 toe RR -0.19 toe. I think that this is from dropping the suspension up front but the shop told me that there is no way to fix it. Do I need to adjust my steering rack to get it strait? Or am I missing something on how to fix this?
When I finish upgrading the suspension I don't want a 0.19 thrust angle, I want my car to track strait!
I can scan and upload the read out if that would help.
-I drive my car to work-
