Yeah, like when you first got them did the hard 60-10 stops then drove for a bit without using the brakes while they cooled.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

Leafy wrote:Yeah, like when you first got them did the hard 60-10 stops then drove for a bit without using the brakes while they cooled.

Never did that, didn't say to anywhere that i'm aware of. the rotors came in two plain boxes that said EBC, and the pads were in their little box, didn't think to check for instructions, I usually just put them on and go, go easy on them the first 50-75 miles or so, always done it, never had a problem.

EBC's instructions are to go very easy on them for 500 miles and they do what I said. Which is why I said I disagree with EBC's method.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

Rick wrote:

MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:

Rick wrote:

MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:You have warped rotors. They need removed taken and have them turned. I've seen many rotors not stored properly and cause this.

From the FAQ above....

#5 Why do rotors "warp"

They don't. The vibration you feel in the pedal that everyone explains to you is a "warped" rotor is actually a thickness variation in the rotor. If a rotor was warped, it would simply wobble slightly side to side and the caliper (which SHOULD slide freely) will follow it back and forth and no problem will ever be noticed. Most brake vibration problems are caused by rust or dirt build up or a slight runout in the hub. The outside diameter of the hub is maybe 2 or 2.5 inches from the centerline whereas the outside diameter of the rotor is between 5 and 7 inches from the centerline, depending on the car, and possibly more or less, depending on the brake system. This means that .001" or .002" of runout at the hub will translate into .006" or more of runout at the OD of the rotor. This indicates a slight rotor friction surface "wobble". As the rotor wobbles, it will touch the pads slightly at one point on the inboard surface and at another point on the outboard surface. The pads will eventually wear the rotor slightly at these two points causing a thickness variation in the rotor. Instead of floating the caliper back and forth, a thickness variation will force the piston back into the caliper and then let it back out slightly, multiple times throughout one revolution of the rotor. As the piston moves into and out of its bore in the caliper, it moves the fluid into and out of the master cylinder, which is mechanically connected to the brake pedal. This is why a vibration is felt in the pedal. There is also another reason for the cause of brake vibrations...but for this one, I will have to give credit to the rocket scientist STEVE RUIZ of STOPTECH, our sister company for his exemplery explanation..check out this page

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm



I still think if they are a cheap noname rotors, they are made of cheap materials, the slots/cross drill holes were drilled after the rotors were made, brandname ones have a mold when they are made.

OP- do you remember what you paid for them?

listen here stupid @!#$. warp is a variation in a flat surface. a variation in the thickness is just that a WARP. now don't quote me and try to prove me wrong. he needs to have the rotors turned or swapped out for another set of rotors. price has nothing to do with quality. now if you have something important to say, do so. if not GTFO.

Holy @!#$ PMS...
whatever... If you have to turn BRAND NEW rotors, they are pieces of @!#$,
and yes I do know good parts are made in china, some of them also have a better QA system, Our work buys many good chinese parts, but at the same time, we bought tridon gear clamps from one of out vendors(made in usa) and they switched to pro core (made in china) and we have nothing but problems with them, same as the problems people have with chinese turbos on ebay, etc.....

Now I'll GTFO cause I guess we are suppose to turn brand new rotor and I am stupid and never knew that, I better run out and get mine turned...... Good luck with the brakes

i have had it before the bud where brand new rotors are not true has nothing to do with cheap or not. work in a factory and you will understand 100% break time comes rotors are turned the next guy comes along and thinks there done and boxes them up or friday afternoon get them off the line. if you don't know what your talkin about then don't post the fact is his rotors need to be turned doesn't matter if they cost 10 bucks or a 100 it still can happen. not everytime does this happen but it can



JBO since July 30, 2001

NOTa2_4 wrote:

Rick wrote:

MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:

Rick wrote:

MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:You have warped rotors. They need removed taken and have them turned. I've seen many rotors not stored properly and cause this.

From the FAQ above....

#5 Why do rotors "warp"

They don't. The vibration you feel in the pedal that everyone explains to you is a "warped" rotor is actually a thickness variation in the rotor. If a rotor was warped, it would simply wobble slightly side to side and the caliper (which SHOULD slide freely) will follow it back and forth and no problem will ever be noticed. Most brake vibration problems are caused by rust or dirt build up or a slight runout in the hub. The outside diameter of the hub is maybe 2 or 2.5 inches from the centerline whereas the outside diameter of the rotor is between 5 and 7 inches from the centerline, depending on the car, and possibly more or less, depending on the brake system. This means that .001" or .002" of runout at the hub will translate into .006" or more of runout at the OD of the rotor. This indicates a slight rotor friction surface "wobble". As the rotor wobbles, it will touch the pads slightly at one point on the inboard surface and at another point on the outboard surface. The pads will eventually wear the rotor slightly at these two points causing a thickness variation in the rotor. Instead of floating the caliper back and forth, a thickness variation will force the piston back into the caliper and then let it back out slightly, multiple times throughout one revolution of the rotor. As the piston moves into and out of its bore in the caliper, it moves the fluid into and out of the master cylinder, which is mechanically connected to the brake pedal. This is why a vibration is felt in the pedal. There is also another reason for the cause of brake vibrations...but for this one, I will have to give credit to the rocket scientist STEVE RUIZ of STOPTECH, our sister company for his exemplery explanation..check out this page

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm



I still think if they are a cheap noname rotors, they are made of cheap materials, the slots/cross drill holes were drilled after the rotors were made, brandname ones have a mold when they are made.

OP- do you remember what you paid for them?

listen here stupid @!#$. warp is a variation in a flat surface. a variation in the thickness is just that a WARP. now don't quote me and try to prove me wrong. he needs to have the rotors turned or swapped out for another set of rotors. price has nothing to do with quality. now if you have something important to say, do so. if not GTFO.

Holy @!#$ PMS...
whatever... If you have to turn BRAND NEW rotors, they are pieces of @!#$,
and yes I do know good parts are made in china, some of them also have a better QA system, Our work buys many good chinese parts, but at the same time, we bought tridon gear clamps from one of out vendors(made in usa) and they switched to pro core (made in china) and we have nothing but problems with them, same as the problems people have with chinese turbos on ebay, etc.....

Now I'll GTFO cause I guess we are suppose to turn brand new rotor and I am stupid and never knew that, I better run out and get mine turned...... Good luck with the brakes

i have had it before the bud where brand new rotors are not true has nothing to do with cheap or not. work in a factory and you will understand 100% break time comes rotors are turned the next guy comes along and thinks there done and boxes them up or friday afternoon get them off the line. if you don't know what your talkin about then don't post the fact is his rotors need to be turned doesn't matter if they cost 10 bucks or a 100 it still can happen. not everytime does this happen but it can

That is true, yes but even if powerslot or whoever brand name company did that, then someone wasn't doing there job, whether its the factory worker or the QC dept. The OP still never did say which brand of stuff he did buy. If it was brand name stuff, it would most likey be rare that would happen and if it did, I am sure powerslot, etc would replace them no questions asked. but if its some cheap noname company, that half ass builds rotors, drills the holes or puts the slots in instead of actually having it in a mold, has no QC or lack of. then that is what you get for buying crap.


2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires - **SOLD**
2014 Kia Forte Koup SX 6spd - 1.6L Turbo - My new car
2015 Kia Sorento EX V6 AWD - Wifes Car

Rick wrote:

MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:

Rick wrote:

MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:You have warped rotors. They need removed taken and have them turned. I've seen many rotors not stored properly and cause this.

From the FAQ above....

#5 Why do rotors "warp"

They don't. The vibration you feel in the pedal that everyone explains to you is a "warped" rotor is actually a thickness variation in the rotor. If a rotor was warped, it would simply wobble slightly side to side and the caliper (which SHOULD slide freely) will follow it back and forth and no problem will ever be noticed. Most brake vibration problems are caused by rust or dirt build up or a slight runout in the hub. The outside diameter of the hub is maybe 2 or 2.5 inches from the centerline whereas the outside diameter of the rotor is between 5 and 7 inches from the centerline, depending on the car, and possibly more or less, depending on the brake system. This means that .001" or .002" of runout at the hub will translate into .006" or more of runout at the OD of the rotor. This indicates a slight rotor friction surface "wobble". As the rotor wobbles, it will touch the pads slightly at one point on the inboard surface and at another point on the outboard surface. The pads will eventually wear the rotor slightly at these two points causing a thickness variation in the rotor. Instead of floating the caliper back and forth, a thickness variation will force the piston back into the caliper and then let it back out slightly, multiple times throughout one revolution of the rotor. As the piston moves into and out of its bore in the caliper, it moves the fluid into and out of the master cylinder, which is mechanically connected to the brake pedal. This is why a vibration is felt in the pedal. There is also another reason for the cause of brake vibrations...but for this one, I will have to give credit to the rocket scientist STEVE RUIZ of STOPTECH, our sister company for his exemplery explanation..check out this page

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm



I still think if they are a cheap noname rotors, they are made of cheap materials, the slots/cross drill holes were drilled after the rotors were made, brandname ones have a mold when they are made.

OP- do you remember what you paid for them?

listen here stupid @!#$. warp is a variation in a flat surface. a variation in the thickness is just that a WARP. now don't quote me and try to prove me wrong. he needs to have the rotors turned or swapped out for another set of rotors. price has nothing to do with quality. now if you have something important to say, do so. if not GTFO.

Holy @!#$ PMS...
whatever... If you have to turn BRAND NEW rotors, they are pieces of @!#$,
and yes I do know good parts are made in china, some of them also have a better QA system, Our work buys many good chinese parts, but at the same time, we bought tridon gear clamps from one of out vendors(made in usa) and they switched to pro core (made in china) and we have nothing but problems with them, same as the problems people have with chinese turbos on ebay, etc.....

Now I'll GTFO cause I guess we are suppose to turn brand new rotor and I am stupid and never knew that, I better run out and get mine turned...... Good luck with the brakes

I work at a chevy dealership, I've had bad Gm rotors go on cars. It's all about how they are stored. If stored leaning up against a wall, or something like that, even the best rotors will warp.