damn. new rotors and hats will be almost 500 bucks....might aswell just buy a whole new kit....lol
Why would you need new hats, though? Can't you just unbolt and replace the rotor / friction area?
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
SweetnessGT wrote:Why would you need new hats, though? Can't you just unbolt and replace the rotor / friction area?
-Chris-
yes...lol and i will...i was jsut saying if anyone ever needed it...ill just paint my current ones. black. they are 7-8 years old, and faded pretty bad.
cant wait till i get mine
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
Alright, so talk to me about these things. Do you need to have the knuckle machined at all?
I like my Baers, but the Wilwoods have a lot of advantages and truthfully wouldn't be bad to buy if I sold my Baers.
(I'm running J knuckles on the Beretta, machined for the Baer 13" swap. If these Wilwoods do not need the knuckle to be machined I'd love to go back to a stock Lbody steering knuckle.)
the knuckle has to be machined...i think its the exact same machining as the baers requires.
EvoFire (Wilwoods on all 4) wrote:the knuckle has to be machined...i think its the exact same machining as the baers requires.
Lol by machining he means the ears that hold on the stock calipers need to be cut off. I just used a grinder when I did my big brake setup.
Zs Z wrote:EvoFire (Wilwoods on all 4) wrote:the knuckle has to be machined...i think its the exact same machining as the baers requires.
Lol by machining he means the ears that hold on the stock calipers need to be cut off. I just used a grinder when I did my big brake setup.
Me too, took all of about 2 minutes with a grinder to get rid of the ears.
bah... i wish you could do the n-body knuckle swap, kurt. (how are you using j-body knuckles? second gen?) i dont know if the wilwood kit will bolt to them (yet, give me a few weeks to see, my n-body to j-body knuckle conversion is almost complete) but it wouldnt be hard to get them to work i wouldnt think...
they are aluminum and save about 6 pounds EACH versus the stock cast iron units.
but they require basically the same things the baer kit does as far as modification goes.
Come join us over on the Olds Quad 4 and Twin Cam Facebook group!
I'm using the machined Baer knuckles for a 3rd gen that I got from you, Brad. They're very similar to a 2nd Gen J / L-body knuckle. The 3rd gens use smaller strut to knuckle bolts, and I cut the steering arm off of the 3rd gen knuckle since the Beretta uses strut steering.
Plenty of Beretta guys have done the N-body brakes, I'm not big on the N-body knuckles because of the need to mod the axles. I've got some OEM units that were recently rebuilt by an axle shop and are damn near unbreakable. Though I would like larger front wheel bearings that the Nbody swap requires.
Depending what happens with this career switch I'm looking at, I may sell the Baer stuff and put that money towards some Wilwood goodies.
hehe... then you'll love this... i had an adapter plate made that allows you to use the j-body wheel bearing on the n-body knuckle.
you got knuckles from me? @!#$ i dont remember that LOL shows how much i remember from that night (hehe i wonder why
)
so walk me through this modding you did... i dont quite understand how ur steering arm hooks to the j-body knuckle?
Come join us over on the Olds Quad 4 and Twin Cam Facebook group!
The steering arms for a Beretta are on the strut body. On the J they are on the knuckle, so I simply cut the arm off of the J knuckle, and used 3rd gen j strut to knuckle bolts which are 1 size smaller than an L body's bolts. Boom, Baer kit on a Beretta,
If all I have to do to 3rd gen J body steering knuckles is cut the stock caliper ears off to bolt the Wilwood bracket up - then that's all I'll have to do to a Beretta knuckle as well since the 2 knuckles use the same caliper, rotor, ball joint and wheel bearing.
Most interesting indeed.
