if you can find or make a big enough puller.. (aka pully puller) i would give that a try. . or use a giant C-clamp, put one tip behind the rotor, and one on studs.
try to put a socket on the stud to spread out the force of the clamp.
Put a c-clamp on the stud? Yeah, plan on either ruining your stud or pushing it out. Not a good idea.
1983 Camaro Z28
well they can be replaced anyways. and banging on them one way or another weakins them. and if they do get pushed out its simple to just put them back on. and it probably wouldnt hurt to replace the studs anyways.
Yup cheap safety measure, replace the studs anyway. but darren, use PB blaster, trust me on that one. let it soak for a little while too. dont just spray it, hit it, and not have it work. just let it soak, spray it, soak, spray it, then hit it. and like i siad, for safe measure, replace the wheel studs.
2.2&2.4(azncav) wrote:well they can be replaced anyways. and banging on them one way or another weakins them. and if they do get pushed out its simple to just put them back on. and it probably wouldnt hurt to replace the studs anyways.
Well, that's why you don't bang on the studs maybe?
I've never had to replace studs from trying to get a stubborn rotor off. And, why risk having to replace a stud when you don't need to? Sure, it's not hard but why make yourself do extra un-necessary work?
1983 Camaro Z28
well from the looks of the picture .. it seems like he plans on replacing them. anyhow .. notice the hub? well either way i hope you get off soon bro. im glad we dont have that problem here. no salt on the roads.
time to get a bigger hammer, and don't be afraid....beat the bloody christ out of it!
Darren....hit it hard enough you HEAR IT
howe0822 wrote:time to get a bigger hammer, and don't be afraid....beat the bloody christ out of it!
Just remember it's a j-body, it likes it rough and hard. lol
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4 Cams...32 Valves...5 Liters...This Could Get Fun!
put the front end on jackstands re assemble the old brakes and attach the rotors with the lugs (only finger tight)
start it put it in drive rev up and slam the brakes repeat process in reverse.
P.S. do it on a flat surface and use the e brake to keep the car still also block the wheels for good measure
I just cant drive 55
you can rent large pullers, they are big enough to remove a rotor.
yea rent a bigger puller .. it will definitly come off then ..
is this thing still not off?
spray the pb or which ever your using from the back side , spraying the front is useless
also a rack is very helpfull when using a BFH , and a baseball stance
Phewes wrote:
It looks like you torched the @!#$ out of that rotor. I'm glad to see it's out.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, November 09, 2007 7:01 PM
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For future reference (as you as likely to do this again), take a propane torch, heat it all around, right above the hub but below the studs. Take a RUBBER mallet (very important - I learned the hard way, I used a metal ballpeen hammer and now am stuck replacing the rear hub lesss then a month later), and smack the crap out of the backside - being very careful to allow room for your arm so if the jackstand or the suspension let's go, you have room to keep your limbs attached.
The point of heat isn't really expansion beyond the hub here. The purpose, for use propane-only users, is to expand and contract it repeatedly, making the rust itself act as a "sandpaper", and dusting itself into oblivion, thereby allowing the rotor to be removed freely.
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
worlds longest brake job FTW
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
5-spd