Ok so I just purchased a practically new air ride kit, used lol and it's in good shape but I have a few questions.
First of all the cup at the top on one of the front struts is loose and pivots all around an the other one isn't, is it suppoed to be stuff and flat or is it supposed to pivot? Can I just torque the nut on the top to tighten it down?
Also I have a body kit and I would like to be able to set it all on the ground. Is this possible with 18"s? In the front I could see the plastic wheel well gettin in the way of the front tires.
you will most likely damage the body kit, but i need pics of the struts mounts.
why would i damage it? crushing it under my car? i was thinking i would mount a few trailer ball hitches under my car to stop my car from crushing the kit and to throw some sparks lol. This way my car will rest on the hitches when i lower and park my car and i was thinking 2 in the front somewhere near the engine, cause thats where the most weight is and i would mount them flush or just behind the wheels. One in the back because theirs less weight and my kit is higher in that area. they would also be easy to adjust height with a few washers and replace. Great idea whoever came up with that
anyways ill send you some pics of the mounts after work.
Spencer, I was looking at your cardomain page and i was impressed by your build! I noticed you rubbed the front is this how you guys solve the problem with the plastic wheel tubs? Do you have any pictures of the inside of the wheel well?
That's Spencer's old build.....weak compared to his new build!
Omg I would love to see it then! Also has anyone mounted their tanks underneath their cars? I realized that I might be able to fit it behind the rear passanger wheel if I cut off about 6 or 8 inches off the bumper. And I have a body kit so the height is not an issue. I am going to take some more measurement when I get the chance
Removing the plastic liners wont allow you to go lower, they dont do much besides try to keep muck out of the fenders.
my tank is mounted under car . I cut out 1/2 of spare tire compartment.Also my car is body kitted on 18's and it lays out and rides like that.
ok so iv been crazy busy and haven't been able to find the time to upload so pics of my bags, but here they are finally, hopefully some of you could help me solve my issues.
Here is a picture of the top mount on my front strut.
As you can see it does not sit flat, it is loose and swivels all around. My other one stays flat. My question is it supposed to sit flat or move? I thought it was just supposed to spin.
Im thinking if i tighten this nut up here it will sit it down flat. correct?
Can i remove this nut to remove the top of the strut mount so i can clean them up a bit?
Question number 2
How do i adjust these rear lower ball things that screw in and out and how did this guy F**k this up?!
Its some kind of threaded brass bushing shoved the the hole.
The ball doesn't want to glide around easily as the other one which is fine(no brass bushing)
Im hoping i wont have too much of a problem getting it out
Question number 3
What should i do about the rear bag top mounts? They are both fabricated by the previous owner i bought them from (im guessing) and the one hole does not match up.
He obviously did a crappy job of measuring his @!#$ out and because of the it looks like im gonna have to fab my own rear upper mounts. See where the hole is blocked? well it is like this on both rear mounts.
Will this dinkey washer even enough ?
Anyone know where i could buy rear upper mounts?
and what about that lower rear pivot ball where can i buy that and how do i adjust it?
grr none of my pictures uploaded!!! ill repost it with links inserted because i dont know how to do the pictures
Never even thought about that, so the hole is supposed to be slightly offset/covered? I can just put a bolt through it and weld it on from the bottom.
well the stock upper mount on the rears are suppose to be a plate with isolator bushing/washers on it. That fabbed thing is a close representation of it but not quite right. the other pic looks like someone tried to use a stock strut mount on it. As far as the heim joints on the bottom, im not sure what that brass thing is for but i would just replace the whole heim joint. www.racingrodends.com i deal with these guys locally and theyre great. the solid rear plate is a good idea, had it been measured properly.
and yes that car domain page is very old , 2009 ish.
this is a stock easystreet upper plate. its the only pic o have of it so ignore the fact that the center is bored and fitted to a full size chevy truck shock.
and no trailer balls! use steel drag block, I perfer Titanium myself.
and i still retained my wheel liners they are trimmed however. mostly the lower half. And the wheel tubs allow you to drive low, and not rub. And my rear axle is extended to clear the rear fenders and to help with centering of the wheel when low.
Ok so your saying this rear upper mout will or won't work? I'm all up for replacing it with stock if I knew where I could find them. Could the be fabricated easily? I don't really understand what the stock rear mount is supposed to look like. Is it supposed to pivot from front to back to allow the axel to move? Anyone know where I could scource these?
And the bottom heim joint can be found at that website?
i wouldnt use a stock mount on them they are always fubar in the end. You may call airlift direct and see if you can still get the upper plates and the lower heim joints. If all else fails Mark at overkill engineering could probably make some for you.
Why shouldn't I use trailer balls? And I found this thread. Is this what the isolator bushing/washers look like? Fist pic in the thread. And why does this front strut look like my rear strut? Can anyone tell me how to know how much to adjust the low heim joints in/ out? Thanks for all the great info ! I just emailed Airlift company.com
trailer balls can come loose and fly off, i wouldn't be to happy driving down the road and a trailer ball come through my windshield
True that but I could alway give the a couple tacs with the mig lol drag blocks just seam pretty pricy to me for a piece of steel aha. But I'm not real concerned with dragging sparks but more with crushing my body kit. Iv been debating weather to put stoppers on my front control arms and rear axel or just underneath my car to rest on the ground. Obviously the second option is the easiest and It also enables me to throw some sparks lol
drag blocks are not expensive, theyre like $40, the Ti are around $90. Just have spacers made for your strut mounts if your concerned about it. there was a local cavy guy here that did that a few years.
When your my age 40$ is enough, all my of my builds are as low budget as possible ahah im just tryin to cut some corners wherever i can but im goin to take your guys advice and invest in some drag blocks.
Today i went to take off the front strut mounts and one came off easily enough. The other one, the nut is seized onto the threaded rod that is coming out. The rod would rather turn before the nut does. Im just wondering if i can screw this rod out so i can get the nut off? its hard to explaine but the rod in this pic here is the one in talking about with the bolt on it.
I am also wondering if these strut mounts have berrings in them? just because i know the front struts are supposed to turn and i have replaced strut mount bearings before. are they the same as stock?
when that happens i usually take channel locks or vice grips wrapped in electical tape to hold the strut shaft. and yes there are bearings, theyre rings that are filled with BB like ball bearings.
i would if could but since its the front strut mount i can only fit a socket down in the hole and it covers up the shaft the nut is on and i nothing to hold on to. I could turn the nut for 10 minuets and either direction and it wont get any tighter or looser, only the shaft the nut is threaded on turns and goes no where. is this normal? and can i replace the berrings with OEM strut bearings or do i have to get ones from airlift?