Jordan wrote:Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:How exactly are we re-drilling them? I'm trying to model it up so I can CNC it but ahh I remembered you cant re-drill a 4x100 with a 5x100 unless its ok to have a hole over lap.
I believe (from what I saw in the first post pictures) you have one of the 5 holes in line with one of the original 4 if you can follow that.. then the other 4 new holes miss the old 4, one is very close to overlapping but the others have a fair distance between them I think. what CNC program are you using? I wish I had access to a CNC mill big enough for that but sadly not. I will be using vertical mill by measurments..
Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:Jordan wrote:Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:How exactly are we re-drilling them? I'm trying to model it up so I can CNC it but ahh I remembered you cant re-drill a 4x100 with a 5x100 unless its ok to have a hole over lap.
I believe (from what I saw in the first post pictures) you have one of the 5 holes in line with one of the original 4 if you can follow that.. then the other 4 new holes miss the old 4, one is very close to overlapping but the others have a fair distance between them I think. what CNC program are you using? I wish I had access to a CNC mill big enough for that but sadly not. I will be using vertical mill by measurments..
I'll be using Esprit, yeah I know, complete over kill for something that's not for a production run. But its what we have at school that I know how to use. I modeled just the hat in SW. I'll have to make just a bit of a notch in one of the holes. The bitch then will be aligning it in the machine right. I was going to bolt it to the table through the current holes and probe the part based off the inside bore to make sure the holes are centered on the hub, I might probe off the outside of the hat though. I still haven't decided what is more important to be centered about, I think I'm going to go with the hub bore though. The pain is going to be making sure I align the one hole that is getting notched correctly. Shouldn't be too hard.
Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:Honestly if I didnt have cnc acess I would just take the stock drums/any rotors, clamp them to the new rotor with the center bores lined up and drill em with a drill press. Using a vertical as a glorified drill press is a pain in the ass.
Slowzee wrote:Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:Honestly if I didnt have cnc acess I would just take the stock drums/any rotors, clamp them to the new rotor with the center bores lined up and drill em with a drill press. Using a vertical as a glorified drill press is a pain in the ass.
this is exactly what I did
Jordan wrote:Just saying.. Rock Auto has way better pricing on the exact same loaded caliper from R1...
Michael Dougherty wrote:So I have to replace my drums before next inspection.
Honestly I have never been a fan of drums and if I can convert to disk without it being a hardcore machining project then I would certainly be interested.
So what Jeffe is making here will allow us a way to do this? If so I am interested.
scott (section8cav) wrote:...or order them from r1concepts
EVILution (KGM Godfather) wrote:scott (section8cav) wrote:...or order them from r1concepts
Any idea on their pricing? I've emailed them twice and haven't gotten a response.
Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:The 1/2 is wider, pushes the tires out more. The 3/8 doesn't push the tires out as much but may be better for handling because of the narrower rear track.
Michael Dougherty wrote:Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:The 1/2 is wider, pushes the tires out more. The 3/8 doesn't push the tires out as much but may be better for handling because of the narrower rear track.
Thanks that pretty much sums it up. I would guess that the 3/8 would keep the look stock while the 1/2 would put the tire out more for a better stance?