roofy-es-ness wrote:IIRC, you will have to modify the hub centers and lug pattern on the rotors if you use the factory j-body hubs and want to upgrade the brakes.
-z yaaaa- wrote:here's what i have in mind for me F-body 11.75" wilwood DRAG setup for my n/a car. this setup should be WAY lighter than stock and be WAY bigger. will it last 100,000 miles and take abuse for daily driving? well who knows but i dont care, im in it for the weight savings, PERIOD. im hoping i can just order a j-body kit hat so no redilling will be necessary.
here's hoping wilwood doesnt change their hat design and utilize basically the same design for most of their setups.
and LOL why do so many keep assuming we are incompetent and just slapped it all together with absolutely no regard for stock spacing etc?
obviously we took the material out of the knuckle to make up for the adapter thickness, if we didnt how would the brakes even bolt on?
Hey Brad, I hope you remembered to account for the fact that the J-body hub is taller than the N-body one? In other words, you need to machine the spindle down further than the thickness of the adapter flange.
Quote:
and LOL why do so many keep assuming we are incompetent and just slapped it all together with absolutely no regard for stock spacing etc?
I never said anyone was incompetent. Im just curious as to all of the modifications and necessary additions
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Brad Whats the weight of the aluminum knuckle with the stainless spacer? I'm curious how much it weighs all done ready for the wheel bearing.
JUCNBST wrote:Brad Whats the weight of the aluminum knuckle with the stainless spacer? I'm curious how much it weighs all done ready for the wheel bearing.
X2. You are stating a 6 pound reduction, but that wasn't with the adapter and added hardware.
-Z Yaaa- wrote:look at around $400-$420 for this whole setup.
Brad, this project has gotten to be close to as expensive as the option I gave you a year ago that would have given you a
net reduction of a little over six pounds per side. You know what I'm talking about.
I'm not at all knocking the leg work you did, but this got expensive real quick for what, IMO, was the lower option for making this happen.
Mr. Quick-what did you suggest a year ago, I'm curious as to what your method would have been. More choices the better.
JUCNBST wrote:Mr. Quick-what did you suggest a year ago, I'm curious as to what your method would have been. More choices the better.
I am not sure who suggested it, but I remember someone wanting to design an alum Jbody spindle
Jason
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Oh yeah that was mcmoney who was going to make aluminum spindles.
Dam that would've been sweet.
I had talked to Brad over a year ago about setting him up with aluminum spindles to maintain the 5x100 and his big brakes, and I gave him 3 options:
1) doing an adapter plate similar to this
2) actually modifying the spindle by welding an insert into the knuckle, then doing the appropriate machine work to accept the hub
3) making new purpose-built billet spindles.
I had quoted him prices, and #1 and #2 both came in significantly less than $400, while doing the billet spindles came out not a hell of a lot more.
interesting
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Mr. Quick wrote:I had talked to Brad over a year ago about setting him up with aluminum spindles to maintain the 5x100 and his big brakes, and I gave him 3 options:
1) doing an adapter plate similar to this
2) actually modifying the spindle by welding an insert into the knuckle, then doing the appropriate machine work to accept the hub
3) making new purpose-built billet spindles.
I had quoted him prices, and #1 and #2 both came in significantly less than $400, while doing the billet spindles came out not a hell of a lot more.
You never want to weld on a spindle. Especially an Aluminum one.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
That completely untrue as a blanket statement.
Not really. Take a class in metallurgy. Let me guess your an engineer?
Welding on a knuckle/Spindle significantly weakens that point in which you weld. Unless you take the part after its done welding and have it retreated your in for a scare.
Mark
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
OEM is right. After you weld on structural aluminum it needs to be solution heat treated out it could crack just sitting on the shelf. Ideally you would make billet uprights and they will take at least 4 re fixtures and cost at least a grand to get made 1 off.
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OEM wrote:Not really. Take a class in metallurgy. Let me guess your an engineer?
Hey, there you go, start being a smart@ss. If you want to start a p!ssing contest, go right ahead. We'll just compare how many people have complaints about parts breaking or not fitting. Sound like a plan? Go ahead and start a thread about it. Don't trash this one with your insecurities.
Yes, I'm aware of the effects of welding, where you can't weld, and where it will cause weakening. I also have the resources to get things done properly, and I've already priced these out, as I said. Leafy, I'll say the same thing about the billet spindles: I've already priced them out. The quote included heat treatment.
OEM wrote:Not really. Take a class in metallurgy. Let me guess your an engineer?
I keep hearing of your douchyness, but I just don't see it. Bunch of haters up in here huh?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, October 27, 2011 2:27 PM
Mike wrote: The secret ingredient is purple..it brings out your natural porch inhabiting, people watching tendancies
^^^LOL Troy. Im just here for the cocaine and hookers.
Oh ya nice knuckles Brad.
Carry on.
OEM wrote:Mr. Quick wrote:I had talked to Brad over a year ago about setting him up with aluminum spindles to maintain the 5x100 and his big brakes, and I gave him 3 options:
1) doing an adapter plate similar to this
2) actually modifying the spindle by welding an insert into the knuckle, then doing the appropriate machine work to accept the hub
3) making new purpose-built billet spindles.
I had quoted him prices, and #1 and #2 both came in significantly less than $400, while doing the billet spindles came out not a hell of a lot more.
You never want to weld on a spindle. Especially an Aluminum one.
Not trying to start anything but do have a curiosity....if what you say is correct how can we/you weld the grand am control arms up and not have issues with them without re heat treating them??
Please keep any possible future fights and ego issues in PM's as I would hate for this thread to be cluttered bs.
Could a company make special wheel bearings with grand am mount and j-body hub? I'm sure there would be a huge gp if something like that could be made.
Spook 427 wrote:Could a company make special wheel bearings with grand am mount and j-body hub? I'm sure there would be a huge gp if something like that could be made.
I wouldnt go that route. Though if I was going to be in the group buy I would make sure that I ordered at least 4 bearings maybe 6 or 8. because you'll never get the group buy together again and if you actually drive this car like this kind of mod would suggest you do you will used a set or two of wheel bearings a year.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
I've not spent much time on this lately as I've been focused on other projects and side work for my turbo build. Sorry
