Well guys finally got the rear Wilwoods on... here is a brief how to , pm me if you need more detailed instructions or need help.
What you need and cost
1. Rear brake brackets ( contact for cost )
2. Wilwood rear brake kit 140-7006D ( $950.00 ) I opted for the drilled rotors to match my fronts
3. Wilwood parking brake calipers ($250.00)
4. Wilwood braided brake line kit 220-8422 ($90.00)
5. Rear bearing assembiles ( $150.00) May not need these
Brackets, which need to be stitch welded and tapped to 3/8ths-24... also may require surface cutting on mounting step to ensure flat mounting surface
Step #1 is to remove the rear wheels and take off the rear drum set up, backing plate, brake lines and ebrake cables. Use caution I had to cut the backing plates off as my hubs, hardware and everything was rusted badly ( car is a 1995). When removing the backing plates use care as the parking brake cables go through the backing plate and are hard to remove. Use caution as they will be reused.
There are 4 bolts holding each rear wheel bearing on, this was by far the hardest part of the install as I had to cut 6 out of the 8 total bolts off. The front head is T-55 and the bolts in the rear of the hub are 15mm.
After the hubs are removed you will have to tuck the parking brake cable behind the rear axle. I purchased two new bearing assemblies as I heated them up past the point of feeling comfortable of reusing them.
Put the brake bracket behind the hub assembly and use 4 3/8ths X 24 bolts and nuts grade 8 or higher suggested. Torque tightly and use lock washers.
After the bracket is torqued against the hub assembly you can see above the parking brake cable below. Use fabbed bracket to secure the ebrake cable to the rear trailing arm. There are 2 holes below the hub assembly ( see below ) use care to measure the stock hole or collar on the ebrake cable ( 10.5mm ) and bore bracket hole to (10.5mm). Bolt bracket to the rear trailing arm first with 2 3/8-24 bolts. The bolts can be put on where the rear of the hub assembly bolts are. After bracket is bolted down, use string to line up the center hole of the bracket to the arm of the wilwood parking brake caliper arm. You will have to mock up the parking brake caliper to check this measurement. The stock 95 ebrake cable is only 2.5-3.5 inches away from the wilwood caliper. Only put the ebrake collar in the bracket hole once it is lined up with the arm on the Wilwood caliper. You can bend the caliper with a small hammer to get the angle correct. It is critical that the arm or cable that you use is level, if it isn't it will knock the inner pad out of the ebrake caliper against the rotor.
The wilwood ebrake caliper is tough to work with, as you can see below the outter pad is held on with 3m weather strip adhesive, I opted to use adhesive on the inner pad as well as there is nothing to hold the pads in like traditional brake calipers from Wilwood. There is also a set screw to set pad depth and this should not be adjusted in until final assembly. you can use a cable to attach the cable to the caliper arm, I made a thick section of aluminum with adjustments on it.
My set up did not require much spacing, only 2 washers on the ebrake caliper bridges... however you may have to backspace calipers, pads etc... each set up will be different due to clearances etc...
After you get the parking brake set up completed you will need to remove the brake line from above the rear axle. The part number 220-8422 from the front Wilwood kit fits here and will bolt right to the caliper...
After the brake line is completed bolt on the remaining components with 2 lug nuts..
Spin the rotor with the lug nuts and it may be out of round... mine was the center hole of the bracket was off 8 thousandths side to side.. enough to see it spinning out of round by eye. I used shim stock all the way around and it was spot on, when the wheel is bolted on this should not be able to move... 4 thou per side of the center bore is barely visable and this is due to machining differences in the hub assemblies and totally unpredictable.
Bleed the brakes and your finished...
PM me with any questions or to get brackets.... I do not claim any responsibility for incorrectly mounted or installed parts or claim any liability as this is a aftermarket brake kit.
Thanks for sharing the instructions
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
So nice, I need these but i have Baer fronts.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
Thanks Jay for writing up the how to...
It would be nice to see a few more kits installed before the platform dies out completely.
History on how it all started.... it started with a question, and developed with determination.
Jay, Happy to see you take the risk and try it, so we could have more on the road.
FYI to all,
This prototype was developed in 2013, and I have been running it for now 2 years without issues.
A risk on my car? yes. Worth it? Absolutely.
Only thing to add to this: you may need to install a proportional valve, to tweek the front and rear brake pressure.
My car is fairly heavy with all the audio and fiberglass. Anyone running this set up in a lighter car may feel a difference.
Wilwood's all around, how can you not want it? lol
Enjoy everyone and thanks again Jay for the write up.
Absolutely! I find that the addition of having the rears as well as the fronts it night and day.... for sure.
Finished picture added for reference
forgot to post a picture with the parking brake caliper
Looks good...but im wondering about those 2 ecotec heads you got under there lol
Philly.. I have a bunch of new lsj heads and l61 heads.. Those are 2 of 6 new lsj heads..
I was browsing Wilwood's site and see they have a new mechanical caliper
Wilwood MC4 caliper...
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
Nice find. I can tell you where this caliper goes it looks bulky and much larger with all the extras on the rear. Also the mounting holes of the caliper are slightly larger pattern (4.50 inches ) vs 2.5 inches for the one I used...