Suspension FAQ (05/22/2005) - Page 4 - Suspension and Brake Forum

Forum Post / Reply
You must log in before you can post or reply to messages.
Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Tuesday, January 27, 2004 4:22 PM
alright, well it looks like ill be cancelling on my kyb guy and waiting for my GC to get back to me

thanks <br>



Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Monday, February 02, 2004 5:39 PM
Just i know this is probably a stupid questions Koni yellow with Eibach sport lines good set up or not? <br>








Thank you for viewing "The Slow and The Cautions," stay tuned for the sequel "2 Slow 2 Bad. "
Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Monday, February 02, 2004 5:48 PM
yes this is already stated on the first page on whats good or not <br>


Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Monday, February 09, 2004 3:15 PM
Just want to throw in yet another random question. What size front and rear swyabars give the most nuetral handling? Is the Eibach set the best choice to get?
<br>

What's a Z-24? It's like a Z-28, only 4 less.
Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Monday, February 09, 2004 3:41 PM
not really, but it depends on the suspension you have....

here is an excerpt from a post i just posted in...

Quote:

is there a better sway bar...depends.... you either want understeer or oversteer or neutral steer, which is the main point of sway bars, to tune the suspension. so better would solely depend on driving style... thats why i asked above.... it all depends on how much over, under, or nuetral steer, the driver prefers...

bigger front than rear offers understeer,

bigger rear than front offers oversteer

even, or actually slightly bigger rear usually gives nuetral steering, since the j-body NATURALLY has understeer.


http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=3&i=58984&t=58984

you can have nuetral setup with no bar really and a 19mm sway bar only in the rear....slight oversteer, but more neutral


then you can achieve the same with a stiffer rear strut, and a stock 18mm front bar with a 22mm rear bar

then you can also run a 22mm stock front bar, and a 25.4mm front bar....

its all about tuning... most will go through a bar or two till they get what they like....

even tire pressure front to rear makes a difference.... there isnt a perfect straight cut answer... <br>


Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Monday, February 09, 2004 11:07 PM
event, i'm starting to look into suspension work... and i used to frequent this forum occasionally

but this sticky is the BEST info i've ever seen

you ARE the man, and maybe someday i can shake your hand

lol, thanks
<br>


Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Tuesday, February 10, 2004 12:29 AM
i'm justa normal guy, just like anyone else here <br>


Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Monday, February 16, 2004 11:43 AM
Can some one briefly lay out the differences between air struts, air cylinders, and air bags? and further, which one would be better for an every day driver, which one is cheaper, etc. thanks
Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Monday, February 16, 2004 12:23 PM
as for which one is better, depends on the driver...

most people choose bags, i have seen alot happy with cylinders

air struts and air bags i believe are the same...they look like a normal strut, but where the spring normally is there is a bag setup...


air cylinders do not have bags. it basically looks like a shock, but the air controls the height...basically the inside is encapsulated. think of how a hydraulic arm looks like. same concept except air controlled.

price all depends on where and who you buy from....there is alot of cheap fly by night crap out there and there are alot of decent places as well.

you should also take it among yourself to start reading MANY of the past posts that involve the subjects you have asked about...

this one is cylinders.

http://www.j-body.org/forums/search.php?f=3&search=cylinders&globalsearch=0&match=1&date=0&fldsubject=1


this one is bags

http://www.j-body.org/forums/search.php?f=3&search=bags&globalsearch=0&match=1&date=0&fldsubject=1


any other subjects, dont be afraid to look up <br>


Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Tuesday, February 17, 2004 10:56 AM
Well I read the whole dealio on spring and shocks etc. Now I would just like to finalize a few details.

If I get Eibach Pro 1.4 drop springs and Koni reds (or even Yellows) What will I have to do with my upper strut mount/bearing(does the factory one fit the strut? I see lots of aftermarket ones like the KYB's) or need I worry about that at all? and at the knuckle>>>Surely they do just bolt in on the bottom (plus one alignment) I wanna be sure that I have all that I need the day I want to install them(I'm a do-it yourselfer/hack....hehe)

I was also wondering how is the red adjusted, physically, I know it has to be off the car from what I have read, but does it need disassembling from spring and bearing? I guess I really need to go see a pair huh?

I read about the uneven drop on 2.2, I have a 2.4, and I'm mostly concerned with front to rear level. Will the Eibachs keep the car flat or will the back appear to be sagging?
Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Tuesday, February 17, 2004 11:03 AM
That un even thing is B.S.
The 2.2 and 2.4 wiegh the exact same.

Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Tuesday, February 17, 2004 4:00 PM
with springs you keep EVERYTHING of the stock strut mount...

like 02potential said, its more BS than truth in the uneven deal...

as for the drop...

the car naturally has the rear end higher, since the springs drop the car evenly on all corners the rear will still be a bit higher... thats how the car is designed to be...

if you have any cosmetic worries, i would suggest you look at bags or coilovers, if you have to have things perfectly even... some people are too strict with this requirement, however, springs are not the choice if you are that picky with it...

to adjust the reds, push down on shock shaft, twist till it clicks...

the reds and yellows are inserts so you can use an old pair of struts... or the ones you have now on the car... either will do...

might be easier to just view someone close to you to explain it all... its really easy to do. <br>


Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Wednesday, February 18, 2004 6:28 PM
Well thats kinda what I thought too, that is that the backs are supposed to be higher. Now I have a small box in my trunk, but sitll even before that I thought that the back was a little saggy looking with 2 or 3 people in the car....know what I'm sayin?

And the slight variations in the corner heights, are they anymore than what the car may have already?......all the cavs I seen lowered I've never really noticed anything odd.

Sounds like Yellows are the way to go....or is the standard setting for the reds easy to set up? (like middle of the row ride)....I dont really wanna kidney buster ride, just wanna be in control over the bumps.
Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Monday, February 23, 2004 11:12 AM
ok i am planning on getting the skunk 2 coilovers from howell automotive and koni yellow shocks and struts from high rev motorsports. has anyone used this setup? is this setup worth buying or should i go with ground controls? Do i need to fabricate anything for the yellow shocks or are they direct replacements? What kind of fabricaqtion is required for the struts? do i need new strut mounts or are the stock ones ok? thank you event for this post it was awesome really helped me out with most of my questions. <br>

Bob Figueiredo
Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Tuesday, February 24, 2004 1:55 AM
Steve Richardson wrote:

Well thats kinda what I thought too, that is that the backs are supposed to be higher. Now I have a small box in my trunk, but sitll even before that I thought that the back was a little saggy looking with 2 or 3 people in the car....know what I'm sayin?

And the slight variations in the corner heights, are they anymore than what the car may have already?......all the cavs I seen lowered I've never really noticed anything odd.

Sounds like Yellows are the way to go....or is the standard setting for the reds easy to set up? (like middle of the row ride)....I dont really wanna kidney buster ride, just wanna be in control over the bumps.


as far as 2-3 people in the car, really i wouldnt let that matter. no car with weight in it is gonna be the same height or level.

people dont notice the height until they nitpick really. i mean someone looking at your car isnt really gonna be running around with a measuring tape and being picky about the car... if they do, back up, and leave...something is dearly wrong with them...

personally i have it a bit on my car after i checked a while back, then i made it "appear" level since i have coils... turns out i had to have the rear driver and front passenger coilovers different heights than the other two (accounted for weight and mysterious front passenger side difference)....

results... the car handled like it was on a teeter totter.

as of sunday night, i made everything back to level by placing the front and rear coils the same height, threadwise... and the handling is oh so much sweeter.. more consistent and the car is level.... from time to time you will have larger passengers who may make the car lower, or lighter who dont make the car as low. no car is perfectly perfect... trying to do so, will ultimately sacrifice elsewhere. same as both arms of a human, or both of your girls boobs, or both of your hands or legs are not the same exact height.... but people function properly and win races, and look good in bathing suits...

you dont have people nit picking on your girls boob size, no matter how much she complains.

people dont walk up to ya and say, hey, your arm is a 1/4 longer on the left... why... no one really cares

same for the car, people respect the car as a whole. you get the idea though.

yellows OR reds are a good way to go... both are easy to adjust. yellows just have the advantage of doing so on the car, but it depends on do you want the stiffer ride... reds have gotten the job done for years with no problems... so its basically choice.

g'luck on it <br>


Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Tuesday, February 24, 2004 2:18 AM
Bob Figueiredo wrote:

ok i am planning on getting the skunk 2 coilovers from howell automotive and koni yellow shocks and struts from high rev motorsports. has anyone used this setup? is this setup worth buying or should i go with ground controls? Do i need to fabricate anything for the yellow shocks or are they direct replacements? What kind of fabricaqtion is required for the struts? do i need new strut mounts or are the stock ones ok? thank you event for this post it was awesome really helped me out with most of my questions.


well unless you autox, or race primarily, stiffer coils in the skunk two setup will be a tough call... make sure the kit comes with bearings... some have said they got em, the ones i have dealt with didnt carry em... ground controls are a safer bet in my thoughts. skunk 2's have a good name and following for imports, but basically all they have done is taken an import kit and grafted it to fit a cavalier... and the kit i had experience with, did not come with all parts.... not really to big on skunk to be honest.

yellows will need the same construction as the reds... the rears are fulls the fronts are inserts... easy job to do to be honest.

stock ones should be fine...

glad we all could help. this post is def a conglomerate of everyone i have learned from on this board as well as those who have submitted info... def not a full effort on my part, but is TOTALLY a full effort of everyone on here who helps out the whole community. EVERYONE. <br>


Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Tuesday, February 24, 2004 4:11 PM
well thank you event,
i just saw the skunk 2 for $259 at howell and i dont know if i can afford more than that. especially after buying the koni yellow shocks and struts and gettin all my motor work done. I know they are usually a good company and for the price of them its the cheapest i have seen on the web for this product. ground controls will run me almost another $100 so i am just not sure yet. but thanks for the advice. <br>

Bob Figueiredo
Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Tuesday, February 24, 2004 4:56 PM
well thing is with skunk, they are only a good company cause they specialize in IMPORTS (skunk 2 that is)...

howell is great, but no sense in buying a product that will not mount without spring seats and lack of bearings... that means you may spend more time fabricating than installing.100$ more is worth the difference in usability.

plus like wild weasles post, you are also garunteed the ability of differnt springs in different heights and spring rates. <br>


Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Thursday, February 26, 2004 6:32 AM
I went to the local Chevy Parts Department today, and got a list of parts I'll need to install an FE2 bar on my FE0 Cavalier ... Here's the list he gave me:

2 Clamps 22660396
2 Insulators 22619843
4 Bolts 11516328
2 Links 22657718

I've got a big list from the parts number thread, but it's a little ambiguous, and there are a couple of parts listed twice (like the clamps) with different part numbers. Just checking here to see if that's everything I'll need, besides the bar (I already got that). Thanks. <br>

<br>
-- Josh
Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Thursday, February 26, 2004 7:49 AM
pretty much, thats it... you might not need one bolt that holds the clamps down cause there will be an existing one that holds a power steering line or something down, but get it anyway...

thats basically about it....

2 clamps,
2 bushings
2endlink bolts
endlink bushings - i suggest aftermarket poly urethane

and thats it really.

of course the nuts for the endlink bolts. <br>


Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Thursday, February 26, 2004 8:03 AM
Awesome. Thanks. Looks like it'll cost about 50 bucks to get everything from gmpartsdirect, but that's still about 30 bucks cheaper than going through the dealership. Plus, I got the bar itself for 20 bucks... ^_^ <br>

<br>
-- Josh

Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Thursday, February 26, 2004 8:14 AM
Here's another question, a friend of mine says that Energy Suspension makes universal endlinks - do you think it's a good idea to try those instead of the GM ones? I haven't looked to see if they make the size I would need, but they would be cheaper than buying the OEM endlinks... <br>

<br>
-- Josh
Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Thursday, February 26, 2004 11:53 PM
Josh wrote:

Awesome. Thanks. Looks like it'll cost about 50 bucks to get everything from gmpartsdirect, but that's still about 30 bucks cheaper than going through the dealership. Plus, I got the bar itself for 20 bucks... ^_^

yoooooooo!!!!

nah dont do that...

the clamps and bolts should be like 5$ from the dealer.... bushings, the D bushings can be gotten from pep boys as well as end links and end link bushings...

now reading your second post... yes, thats what i was talkin about... all you need really are the clamps and bolts...the rest i would get at the store and it should be under or around 20$ <br>


Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Friday, February 27, 2004 12:35 PM
What about the "insulators" the GM parts guy said I needed? Is that just referring to the bushings? Also, about what length endlink am I gonna need? I'm not sure what the measurement on that is... <br>

<br>
-- Josh
Re: HOW TO LOWER A CAR-THE RIGHT WAY (FAQ)
Friday, February 27, 2004 1:05 PM
not sure of the measurement, but the insulator is prob the bushing. <br>


Forum Post / Reply
You must log in before you can post or reply to messages.

 

Start New Topic Advanced Search