Is there a how-to on swapping the front stock struts for some Munroe Sensa-Tracs? Just wondering if I should do this myself of buck up and have some moreon at a shop do it. Do the springs need to be compressed, etc.? Thanks!!!
If you've got a set of jack stands, a socket set and a torque wrench, you should be doing this one yourself. Pick up a Haynes or Chiltons manual for step-by-step instructions and all the proper torque specs.
When you're done, you still have to take it to a shop for an alignment though.
I figured it was a "torque the hell outta em all" kinda install. I know these shops around here don't use torque wrenches ever, but I do have access to several so that's not a problem. Any instructions are greatly appreciated. Alignment huh? I didn't think of that. I just figured it was like replacing a shock.
Jackal wrote:I figured it was a "torque the hell outta em all" kinda install. I know these shops around here don't use torque wrenches ever, but I do have access to several so that's not a problem. Any instructions are greatly appreciated. Alignment huh? I didn't think of that. I just figured it was like replacing a shock.
Hell no!!!
Nothing should ever be "torque the hell outta em all". In this case you'll strip the top nuts on your first crack at the wrench.
As for the alignment... there's no need in the back but in the front you're removing a major suspension component and can easily throw the alignment off. You definitely need an alignment after this.
Wild Weasel wrote:Jackal wrote:I figured it was a "torque the hell outta em all" kinda install. I know these shops around here don't use torque wrenches ever, but I do have access to several so that's not a problem. Any instructions are greatly appreciated. Alignment huh? I didn't think of that. I just figured it was like replacing a shock.
Hell no!!!
Nothing should ever be "torque the hell outta em all". In this case you'll strip the top nuts on your first crack at the wrench.
As for the alignment... there's no need in the back but in the front you're removing a major suspension component and can easily throw the alignment off. You definitely need an alignment after this.
You should have the alignment checked. But changing suspension components on a J will not always move the alignment. The stock suspension is non-adjustable (cept for toe). So in order to change the camber, you need to buy a camber kit. Which is most likely 4 bolts that are smaller than stock. this allows for movement. Now you can change the camber. I say the only way camber will be off is if your springs are sagging a little.
^^Home made sig^^ ghetto, I know.
http://members.cardomain.com/blackoutfire
http://www.bradiscool.com
This link will help you out
ALOT. I used it to change the rear shocks and mounts on a 97 Sunfire SE coupe.
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i change strut all day I don't use a torque wrench. 3/8 impact on the top three, 3/8 or 1/2 impact on the bottom two depends on if my 3/8 will break them free. Throw it in the compressor remove strut nut with 3/8 impact, use slow taps on the trigger you do not want to piston and ruin the seal. Put back in car start with mounts, start treads with fingers keep loose. install on knuckle with impact. lower car tighten mount nuts with 3/8 impact.
However when you use the impact to tighten the bolts you need to listen to your tool, whne she sings she is tight right! So i've had a beer or six but this is seriously how I do it.
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Thanks guys, I'm going to tackle this on Sat. WIll let you know the results. Prob. is I don't know now if I'll be able to use an impact...may have to use good ol hand tools and elbow grease. Approx. how much torque do the upper and lower nuts require? Thanks!!!
