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F the L67, they weigh as much as a small block. No J-body will ever handle very well with that much weight in there.
I dont think the intention of putting that motor into a J is to make it handle great in the twisties.
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I'm actually working on a 3x00 how to for the 95, and I'll research the ODB II swap and perhaps incorporate it. Seriously, this swap is the most compatible for the 95's.
Whatever works on the 95, should work on the newer cars. I believe you can swap back to a 95 ECU and harness. So it should be the same.
now when i do this swap what guages can I use like from a grand am gt or use autometer guages? and if I can swap grand am gt guages how hard would it be to switch it over?
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Kustom 96 Sunfire GT wrote:now when i do this swap what guages can I use like from a grand am gt or use autometer guages? and if I can swap grand am gt guages how hard would it be to switch it over?
Quicklilcav is right. It really depends on the setup, what kind of work you want to get into, and most of all how much money you want to spend. One thing that I will tell you is that J-body gauge clusters are a different size than what you'll find in other cars. So you will run into a fitment issue there. An aftermarket cluster will be pricey, to say the least.
As I mentioned above. I plan on starting over on my wiring and running the factory ECM and engine harness. Solely for the purpose of keeping the factory electronics set up the way they were from the factory (mostly). This in turn should allow proper operation of stuff like my DRL's, speedometer, and hopefully in my case, the factory tach should also read even though I have a 6 instead of 4 cyl.
I was going to give it a shot first. The Factory 2.2 ECM is made to see a 7x crank sensor. On the 2.2 it's programmed to 'skip' 2 of the notches. The V6 also uses a 7x sensor but doesnt skip any of them.
If it doesnt work, the shift light should come on way early. Which i'd know then it's reading too high. I blew up the cluster that I had with the tach anyways
Besides.... look at my sig pic.
I like the grand am gt gauges for some odd reason
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something i thought of.... wont you be getting better gas mileage the the car it came stock in????? due to the difference in weight? being that there is less weight for the engine to move in your car compared the the stock car?
that'll be pretty sweet!!
Quiklilcav wrote:SHOoff wrote:I was going to give it a shot first. The Factory 2.2 ECM is made to see a 7x crank sensor. On the 2.2 it's programmed to 'skip' 2 of the notches. The V6 also uses a 7x sensor but doesnt skip any of them.
The 7x is the cam sensor. The crank sensor on the V6 is 24x high res and 3x low res. The tach signal is off of the ignition module, not the crank or cam sensors.
Incorrect. The crank sensor inside the pulley is 24x. The Crank sensor inside actually on the crank, is 7x. I've seen 3x on wiring diagrams, and never understood why, because it is a 7x. I dont even know what the 24x is for exactly. I know on my ECU setup it isnt used. And I thought the Cam sensor is there for the SFI.
ok which one is better to use for boost and still can save on gas? SFI or MPFI?
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Quiklilcav wrote:Yes, the cam sensor is for the SFI.
The 3x sensor is partly responsible for correct ignition firing. It's actually wired directly to the ignition module. Every diagram I have says that the crank sensor in the block is 3x.
I have the manuals for both the Camaro 3.4 and the 3400. Both of them show 24x and 3x everywhere I have read. Also, from talking to Mr. Goodwrench when he was planing to use an F-Body wiring harness, he had found that the 24x signal is used when the engine is 1200RPMs or lower, and the 3x is for over 1200RPMs.
See, I cant really understand why exactly that is. Cuz if you actually look at a 660 crankshaft, there's 7 notches in the reluctor wheel. There's probably some silly reason they say 3x. I'm sure GM is ultimately behind it all
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ok which one is better to use for boost and still can save on gas? SFI or MPFI?
SFI will get you better MPG over other kinds of port injection. But, it's only really effective under 3000rpm. After that point I've been told that it goes to MPFI anyways. At the higher engine speeds stuff is moving fast enough that it ends up spraying fuel on the back of the valve like MPFI does. But when cruisin down the highway at low engine speeds, SFI is the way to go, for the MPG.
lol, in all honesty, if you've swapped a 3.4L into a cavy, trust me you'll have @!#$ty mileage for the first while, kuz you'll be balls to the walls at each light... i know i would be
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
5-spd
Yeah you're right about that. In my case, I've only seen it go to lean cruis mode one time. I dont know what the issuse with my setup is. Something's different about it now that's making it go to PE mode any time the throttle is pressed at all. Not 80% like it should be, we're talking more like 5%. It's really weird. So i'm gonna run a MS-II instead of what I have. That should take care of the problem.
the setup im going by is using the grand am BCM and PCM because im going to use the DHP powertunr on my setup
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Annnnnnnnnnnnnyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy progress!? Im interested!
P0234- Only Code worth ever coming up on ur Scanner
www.sounddomain.com/id/935speedrs
any updated pics?
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now can i use the stock 2000 sunfire cluster and then rewire it to the grand am BCM and PCM
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SHUUUAAAWEEEEEEEEEEEEETTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT I was pondering the concepts of going full OBDII but, No FWD GMs are Stick and the computer gets mega pissed off. As I found out when I did a 3400/5 speed swap on my cousins beretta. Due to all the wiring you had to do, why not just use a 2nd gen Z24 setup then? You had to adapt to your cluster anyway. Just a thought....... Goooood work!
P0234- Only Code worth ever coming up on ur Scanner
www.sounddomain.com/id/935speedrs
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Due to all the wiring you had to do, why not just use a 2nd gen Z24 setup
There's some different problems you run into on that. I have not perfected them either.
You must have 93-94 ECU or the $A1 code for such. Or modify the stock code that's in there. Otherwise your Speed Limiter kicks on at 20mph (still 1st gear on the 5spd). You can unhook the VSS, but then after you've been cruising at 60mph and the ECU doesnt know that you're moving, it sets the Idle there. To prevent this you'll need to unhook the IAC. If you unhook the IAC the car will be rather difficult to keep running when cold.
The 2nd Gen ECM will not run the factory Gauge cluster. Which is one thing that I think is possible with Quicklilcav's setup.
The 2nd Gen ECM requires the use of the knock sensor for the 3.1. The 3.1 knock sensor is not correct for the 3x00 motor. This creates issues on mine with KR at high RPM. With the 3x00 KS in there, the ECU isnt compatible. So you'll have a problem with MASSIVE KR at all times. You'll even hear the exhaust sound funny at idle.
Fueling - The 3x00 makes more power than the 3.1. The 3.1 therefore has smaller injectors. Thus, you create 2 problems. You're supposed to use the 3.1 injectors in the 3x00, but then you max them out and run a bit lean on the high end. At the same time, if you run the 3x00 injectors, the ECU doesnt know that they're too big. It attempts to compensate, but it maxes itself out as there's only so far it can adjust. And still runs too rich. So you need to once again, burn a chip with code that is correct for the injectors.
However, I have sent an email to Intense racing (who does a lot for GTP's, and also has PCM's for the LA1) and asked if it's possible for them to do custom programming to remove the auto tranny controls. Hopefully they can, cuz IIRC a custom PCM from intense is only 179 bucks.
hey jason when you talked to Intense racing they told me they can do it but they use HP tuners software to tune it
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