thanks! now that i have the donor car its a lot more clear what i should keep and toss. my cavi's motor is ready to come out, only held in by 3 bell housing mounts, when i pulled it apart last weekend i was planning on just replacing my 2.4 with another 2.4, but yesterday this 2.2 eco showed up on CL so i jumped on it. last night after fighting to get the sunfire with 2 dead front tires on and off a tow dolly i got the majority of the parts pulled off the engine and should be ready to pull this thing out. everything looks to be in good shape except i need a RAD and the passenger side motor mount bracket, (the cast aluminum one mounted to the engine) sheared off where the post enters into the rubber part of the mount. it looks like i will have to go to the junk yard for this part? when it comes to the radiator would it be worthwhile for me to buy the premium $260 one or go with the $160. i won't be boosting this for a while, only mods will be header and CAI. will the cheap one last just fine?

I've been working on a eco swap and ran into some problems. I'm not sure if its bad wiring or what so ill explain and get your guys opinion.
Donor Car:
04 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2 ecotech auto.
Took out engine, axles, engine bay harness, ECM, radiator was bad cuz car was wrecked.

The Car its going into:
02 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 2200 5 speed manual.

Basically from what i understood reading this thread was that there shouldnt be any difference between the internal harness so i should just be able to change under the brake booster correct? i did this and when i turn the key on i dont even get a check engine light but when i turn the key it clicks at the crank relay on fuse box. The wires were cut on this harness by the fuse box i soldered them back together and im having this problem now, i noticed while doing this there are 2 pink wires and 2 green/white wires and also 2 bigger red wires (assuming they are just hots so shouldnt matter which one its hooked to as long as its pushing power). Does anyone have wiring diagrams to this harness (04 sunfire).

As far as mounts going manual to auto all i had to change was on the driver side tranny mount, i had to cut away the bracket off the frame and the frame already had the holes to mount in the ecotech mount just had to bolt it in.

Throttle Cable works fine, its pretty long but i just pushed the extra off to the side for now i still get full throttle when i push the pedal.

when you key-on, the cluster should light up and go through a bulb test.

check the neutral-safety switch wiring since you're using an auto pcm in a manual car.


you said the starter relay is clicking... so if that's the case, there has to be no power getting to the starter.


hook the starter up to a multi, have someone turn the key and see if the voltage hits the starter. (BE CAREFUL NOT TO HAVE THE CAR IN GEAR)

if voltage gets there, starter has to be bad.
if voltage isn't getting there, trace your wires up to the under-hood relay box.

Ill check the nuetral saftey switch, never thougth of that. Good idea. If i jump the starter it rolls over and everything fine. Im pretty sure its the fuel pump relay thats clicking may be the crank relay. I really have no concerns of the fuel pump working atm i just want it to roll over when i turn the key. Today i tried changing the green/white wires and pink wires in different combonations to see if it matters but still just clicked at the same relay. Ill follow up later tonight or tomorrow about the nuetral switch.

Well i figured it out today. Turns out one of my grounds got sheared off and i didnt notice it. Bought a used harness from a local junk yard and she is turning over and pump is running but still wont start. Im thinking its just cause i dont have everything on the car yet.

keep in mind, passlock won't allow the car to start until you do the relearn procedure.

I did the passlock relearn and the theft light went out and everything... is there a way i can do it again just to make sure? i tried just leaving the key on for like 15 min but there is no way to tell if it went through again cuz the light was already out. I tried dumping a little gas into it and rolling it over and it still didnt fire up so thats telling me no spark... im gonna check for spark the right way to be sure, fuel pressure is good and everything... there are a couple clips on the harness that i cant find where they go. Like the one down from where the plug in is for the injectors, its purple and has like 3 o's in a triangle... cant find a place for it lol and another one by the starter thats just 2 prongs i think white. Hopefully its just something dumb like the coil pack since the donor car was wrecked... I also heard rumor that if you tilt them forward or backwards you can damage the coil and i know i had that thing tilt every which way possible so... after tonights tests if they all come out how i think they are going to im thinking thats my next part.

Also checking the injectors with a noid light tonight... if no injectors have pulse then i guess i lean towards passlock relearn again

Quote:

I also heard rumor that if you tilt them forward or backwards you can damage the coil and i know i had that thing tilt every which way possible so...

tilt what forwards or backwards? I'm not sure what this means...

if there's a white two-prong plug by the starter that isn't plugged in that's probably the crankshaft position sensor. you need that plugged in or the engine will never run.

if it's a weirdo shape and only has one wire, that's the oil pressure switch... not really important, but still a good idea to have plugged in.

the whole cassette for the coil and plug wires.... like when u pull it off if you flip it or tilt it forward... just something i read but i doubt thats the problem... considering it would be tilting going up and down hills so idk...

the white 2 prong cable im not sure if its single or not, ill look when i go up the garage later i do believe it has 2 wires running to it though.

any ideas on what the purple one could be... its 3 prongs shaped like a triangle right before the a/c connector?

another thing i did notice was i didnt have any pulse at my injectors with the noid lights... so something is telling me it may be a computer issue?

the purple connector by the AC line is probably the pressure sensor for the AC

the cassette is not that fragile. it's on a vibrating engine....


you need to post a picture of the 2 prong cable. if there are two wires, and the wires are yellow and purple, that's the crank sensor and it needs to be hooked up or the engine won't run.

the 2 prong connector was the cam position sensor... plugged it in and it runs now... dont know how i missed that... anywho now i got a bunch of codes i need to fix...

P0753 Shift Solenoid A- Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B- Electrical
P0201 Injector Circuit Open- Cylinder 1

would i get the shift solenoid codes for it not being full of tranny fluid yet?

Thanks for all your help so far, I really appreciate it.

I think i just have a bad connection at the harness for the tranny solenoids...
but the injector circuit open what could that be besides a bad injector?

Sean Tucker wrote:I think i just have a bad connection at the harness for the tranny solenoids...
but the injector circuit open what could that be besides a bad injector?

you mean the crank position sensor... crankshaft! the cams are little, the crank is big.

glad you got it running finally tho!


now the automatic CELs... you're getting into territory I know nothing about.

the injector circuit open.. try moving the injectors around and see if the code follows the suspect injector.
if it does, then it's the injector.
if it doesn't, then I'd start looking at the connector and the wiring for the #1 injector.

Hey guys,

ive got a couple questions.

i got a 2004(can)2.2 eco l61 out of a grand am, and i swapped it into my 2001(us) cavalier with 2200 ln2.
first off is the egr line wont come off on my car, will the egr line work on the 2004 eco?
i read some wears egr line can be negative or positive pressure. can i just do a egr delete?

A lot of great info on here. And I am hoping to revive this thread for some answers or redirected to the right spot to ask. Im want to do a swap but opposite directions. I currently have a 98 z24 2.4 dohc 5 speed with a lot of deer damage and rust but still runs and drives great. I can get a 03 with a 2.2 auto for nothing that has a bad head and shifting problems but a perfect body. I'd like to put my 2.4 and 5 speed in it. I'm also thinking I'd like to switch it to my 98s head lights and front clip( just bumper and hood I believe). To get rid of the crappy fogged over plastic head lights and eliminate my electrical issues there.

Questions:
1 will I have to change the intieror wiring? (I think yes from what I've read)
2 will I have to change gas tank and fuel lines?
3 will i have to mod tranny mounts? ( I can handle that)
4 what other issues might there be? Power steering?

I'm hoping to park them side by side to check most of this and get a better understanding on my own. Thanks for any input.