I welded a second frame mount on top of the original with spacer- added 1 inch
took off an inch off the tank overflow mount to keep it in the same spot
i will look for my pics and post them
I actaully saw those pics yesterday, but I'm trying to do as little welding as possible, as I cannot weld myself. My lower dogbone mount will be made by a shop, and I'm going to have to get someone to come in and weld in a new mount for my Getrag Tranny.
The mount I used required very little welding. It is the mount off a 99+ Grand Am, or Malibu works too. Just grind the old mount out, drill two holes get a piece of flat stock and weld some bolts to the underside and slide it into the frame rail and put the bolts through the holes drilled in the frame rail. There is pictures in the sticky.
I kjnow about the pics in teh sticky, actually I'm trying to steer clear f as much welding as possible. There will be someone come in and weld a tranny mount in for me, and I'm having the lower dogbone custom made. Sorry about the spelling because it's christmas eve and I'm a little intoxicated....
Quiklilcav wrote:The plate Z24 Speed is talking about requires very little welding. It may be possible to do it without any welding if you look at it.
Merry Christmas all.
Drink lots of egg nog and liquor.
True story, all I welded was the nuts to the flat stock to keep them from falling out, but if you know some tricks you can get them in there with no welding, just be careful they dont fall into the frame rail if you ever have to take them out.
Cheers and merrry christmas all,
Pictures of the new gauge cluster to come when I get it done
SHOoff wrote:...This isnt 100% a How-To.
I'm working on one that will basicly encompass all of the different mixes we've discussed. Obviously there are a few things that still need to be tried, but I've collected so much data that I think I can organize it to address each type of swap. With any luck, I'll have it up by next month.
This was posted in March 07, I was just wondering how this How-to was coming along? I'd love to read through what's done so far...
joe malechowski wrote:I cut that firewall plug out, stripped it down and used it over under the dash. It made an excellent body to engine disconnect.
I couldnt find a diagram either, plus there wasnt much left in it when I was done.
This is exactly what I was thinking about doing. Sending painless Wiring Inc. A 1994 (3.1 5 Speed) Harness and ECM and the 2.2 Harness and ECM, and having them make me a harness thats plug and play. Not sure if this is possible or not, but I'm going to email them and find out...
It does it's job, and it's a great post. I just had the impression you were doing a detailed how-to on several different ways about the swap...
ive already contacted painless, they told me NO,
Thanks James, I just finished writing down the contact info from their website. Thanks alot.
maybe someone might have some insight to this issue...
cooling fan. I've gone around and around trying to get it going w/out installing additional parts.
I have the low side hooked up to the 2.2 relay box (high side is not connected). Used HPT to drop the fan turn on temp to 185 (both high and low just in case I got the wires crossed). Gets up to 205, no luck. CTS is hooked up as I can datalog that sensor. Run-on when key off works fine.
2 questions: 1) should I hook up the high side to the same wire (using diodes to prevent feedback to the either wire), basically making it a 2-1 setup, or 2) set the high fan to turn on at 256, off at 255 (thinking that there is a conflict)?
I would imagine that the PCM would not allow the fan to not engage if one or the other was not hooked up (example: bad relay)....
hmm. I'll have to dig around and see if I have some diodes and test it. Worst case is that it doesn't work.
Kardain
do you have the proper ground for your relay at the pcm?? power comes from fuse to relay to pcm
I only show the outputs to the relay. No return grounds to the PCM.
Does HPT show you when the computer is commanding the fan on? On my MS it will tell me when it's activated (in my case it lights up OUTPUT 1 because it doesn't know it's a cooling fan but that's no big deal). If i'm not mistaken, the PCM uses a switched ground. (it shorts the output to ground to activate the relay).
To check on it, do like I did, for safety sake. Set the fan turn-on really low. 100 degrees or something. Once the coolant is up to that temp it should activate the fan. At that point you can check the wire coming from the PCM for voltage. If it's not reading hot, then you know it's a ground. I'm not sure where you have it hooked up on the relay. But, i'm guessing why it's not a return ground to the PCM.
Once you get everything set up that way and working, go ahead and turn your fan-on temps to normal and I would definately set the 2nd cooling fan as high as you can get it so it won't be trying to turn that on too.
I think one problem I had with mine was that 2 of the power wires on the relay were in the wrong spot. So if the relay would flip, it just wouldn't be throwing power at the wire that needed it. Though, I don't the relay will close like that.
I dunno, it was confusing at first because I was looking at the diagram on the side of the relay. Then found out that the pins are in different spots if you look at the bottom of it.
HPT doesn't show when the fan is commanded on.... in either case, I purchased a SPAL FAN-PWM digital fan controller a few months ago as a just in case thing (8 wires and programmable, able to control 2 fans). I'm just going to piggy back that in and call it a day, then set the PCM fan controls to 256 on, 255 off.
Now if it will just stop being so darn windy for a little bit cause she goes to the dyno next weekend......