So i have a 1996 Cavalier Z24 2.4 and the fan ran normal (what i assume is normal)for a little while after resetting computer. Then the check engine light will come on and the fan will run constantly when the car is running. I havent checked the code yet and i know that will help big time obviously but im just curious if anyone has any ideas as to what the issue could be. If i reset the computer again, the fan comes on when the temp gets alittle over the halfway mark (195 is half way on my gauge cluster) but after 15 or so minutes of driving it the check engine light comes back on and the fan just always runs while the car is running. I checked all the troubleshooting tips i can find in AllData that i could do without knowing what code its throwing but ill find out tomorrow morning. my scan tool wont pick up the car for some reason. works on my 2001 Chrysler and my friends 2007 mazda but not the cavalier. weird. so i gotta bring it up to advanced and have them use their scanner (which works). Any help in the meantime would be appreciated. Thanks.
Its a fail safe, If your Check Engine light pops on, the fan will stay on. You need to find out what the code is, and fix that problem and that will stop the C/E light from coming on, thus stopping the fan from being on all the time. Other then that, there is nothing anyone can do for u here. Sorry man.
Thats all the info i needed. thanks alot . i read that regardless of what the check engine light is on for that it can cause that in Cavaliers. Thanks for the info.
Quote:
my scan tool wont pick up the car for some reason.
Blown cigarette lighter fuse.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
If the MAP sensor is not reading correctly the fan will be on 100% of the time also.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
similar problem, my car keeps throwing the TPS sensor code, causeing the same thing, but EVEN when I changed out the sensor (light stayed off for a week) the fan would continue even with no code being thrown. then the code came back, but, any ideas on why mine kept going after the reset?
JBO Stickers are back!!!! Click Me!!
SHOoff wrote:Quote:
my scan tool wont pick up the car for some reason.
Blown cigarette lighter fuse.
Yup. cigarette lighter fuse was blown. lol. thats funny.
-MD- Enforcer wrote:If the MAP sensor is not reading correctly the fan will be on 100% of the time also.
my girlfriend had to drive it to work so i didnt get a chance to change the fuse out and check it but im going to do that within the next hour or two. Very curious as to whats going on. Car runs great. just running alittle Rich in my opinion.
Patch up those holes, because the code means
Catalyst efficiency low- bank 1 So it can be from that or the following reasons:
1. Catalytic converter defective (failure possibly due to #2, 3 or 4)
2. Engine misfire or poor running condition
3. Large vacuum leak
4. Engine oil leakage into exhaust- valve guide seals, piston rings
Mike Z A.K.A SNEEZY wrote:Patch up those holes, because the code means Catalyst efficiency low- bank 1 So it can be from that or the following reasons:
1. Catalytic converter defective (failure possibly due to #2, 3 or 4)
2. Engine misfire or poor running condition
3. Large vacuum leak
4. Engine oil leakage into exhaust- valve guide seals, piston rings
I just ran through that monster. only paid 800 bucks for it from a buddy. so its not in the nest condition in the world. No running problems, and when i changed the plug didnt see any oil anywhere on anything so hopefully not a leak. changed plugs, wires, fuel filter, Sea Foamed the F***ing balls out of it. Cleaned out the K&N. has a 160k on it. tranny was replaced at 55k. It runs really really good. i can move the cata by hand if i go under the car. it slides up and down the pipe. the clamps are completely rusted out. so i hope patching it up fixes the issue i really dont want any engine work to do. but seeing a check engine light on makes me twitch. i hate it.
Quote:
it slides up and down the pipe.
Look under there again and see if there's even a sensor behind the cat at all? The fact that you can slide it says to me that the cat has been replaced at some point, for whatever reason. The stock cat shouldn't even have clamps on it. Most cat's out there (universals anyways) don't have a spot for an O2 sensor.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
SHOoff wrote:Quote:
it slides up and down the pipe.
Look under there again and see if there's even a sensor behind the cat at all? The fact that you can slide it says to me that the cat has been replaced at some point, for whatever reason. The stock cat shouldn't even have clamps on it. Most cat's out there (universals anyways) don't have a spot for an O2 sensor.
Yup. there is an O2 sensor right on top of it pretty much. but like i said. there is a clamp on each side of it but they are rusted out. im assuming the welds rusted out and someone half-assed it and tried to fix it with the clamps. The cata is sagging. if i push it up the pipes come closer together like they should be. i plan on getting the whole exhaust redone at some point. could i get away with jacking the cata up so its where it should be. installing new clamps on each side. and sealing the ends up with JB Weld?
Probably best to just use a welder for that.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
