Hmm well I got everything to work besides the tach. The car had a problem with the abs system as well where the brake and abs light had been lit for the past 4 years or so. It also liked to divert all the brake pressure to the rear brakes where they would lock up instant at the press of the pedal. Was told years ago that it was the abs module on the side of the master cylinder. Where I switched it when doing the swap to where it seems to be fixed now. Need to plug the wheel sensor back up but the lights go all off when I had them plugged up.
I still have to hook the evap wires up and ac wires though. But coolant temp works using a 3 prong ls1 temp sensor, battery light works using I believe the grey wire put into the empty prong on the 3.4 harness. Speedo works as well, never thought I would see the speedo past 115 pegged in the bottom of the cluster in 5th
How ever I see you guys mentioning the v6 computer won't run with the icm wires hooked up. I tapped into everyone but the 12volt and ground where it ran fine, just the tach never flinched one bit. I've drove it a bit and pulls pretty hard for it to only be reving to I would guess 4-4500 due to the park rev limit. Also in the vids it was whistling pretty good, where that was due to intake cracking around 3 of the bolts. Lesson learned don't have your cousin move the plug wire brackets
I also had the mode relay, the 5 pin for the fans hooked up wrong, so when ground was applied to the relay that it would cycle the relay causing the low speed and high speed to not work at all. How ever got was pretty easy to switch the pins around, getting them working fully.
I do have one issue where the theft system light has came on from something on the cluster. I was pretty positive that it was off at first, but I guess because I was messing with it with the j pcm disconnected that it set it. So any ideas on how to get the stupid thing off? I wasn't sure if a tech 2 or the fancy snap on scan tool I have access to will be able to mess with it due to the j pcm not detecting the rpm signal.
Then the other thing that I am curious about is anyone know the wires to hook together for the tranny switch to get it to rev to the actual drive rev limit? Then back on the tach, is there any way to use a tach adapter to feed the j pcm the right signal it needs? I would prefer to not use a big ricey tach.
There is no way to use a tach adapter. I looked into this years ago. The adapters only put out a typical pulse signal for aftermarket tachs, nothing for a factory signal. The ECMs use a completely different signal than aftermarket. The tach output on the ICM puts out an aftermarket compatible signal.
As for the rev limit switch, that's a nuetral/park switch. If you don't have it hooked up, the circuit is open, and the ECM engages the rev limiter.
just wire the dash ass 00+ and all headaches go away
JBO since July 30, 2001
NOTa2_4 wrote:just wire the dash ass 00+ and all headaches go away
dash ass?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, May 08, 2012 8:38 AM
Lol nice one, as for the tach adapter I seen it mentioned a few times. How ever I don't recall one person saying it didn't work. So thought I would ask, but guess I will put something in it. Just not sure what to do yet. Any ideas on a way to get the theft system light off on the 97 z24 pcm I'm using though? If not I will probably just yank the bulb for it.
As for the park/neutral switch I never hooked any of that up. I assume it is only reving to 3500 or so as it starts to pull then hits the limiter. No tach to confirm it and I haven't hooked it to the scanner yet to confirm. How ever with the 02 getrag limiter in 1st is around 28-30mph then 2nd it is 55mph. I did look at the diagrams and I assume you are speaking of the tranny switch. Where I hooked those up the day before yesterday. Where from what I can tell it doesn't rev one bit higher. I hooked the grey and yellow to ground. Followed by the dark blue for the drive pressure switch. I also hooked up the speed sensor wires to the grand am pcm. Where it decided it wanted to idle pretty high, then I unhooked the speed wires where it settled back down low. Then yesterday it decided it wanted to idle at probably 2 to 3k. Where I couldn't figure out what was going on with it till today. Where I hooked the 3 tranny wires I grounded, where the idle has been fine since.
So right now the tranny wires I ground nor does the grand am pcm pick up the speed sensor. So if someone could point out from the below diagram what I need to hook up or if it is even the right stuff would be nice. I plan to get the pcm reflashed, but wanted to put some miles on it before doing so.
Quote:
How ever with the 02 getrag limiter in 1st is around 28-30mph then 2nd it is 55mph
If that's where you're hitting the rev limiter at, then that's over 6000rpm.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
As for the rev limit I still haven't hooked the scan tool to it to see if it is actually reving to what it should. How ever I got the a/c hooked up and working along with the dual fans on the right relays. How ever I haven't seen it mentioned once, but if you decide to use any 3400 pcm as far as I have looked at pinouts. If you want ac you need the body control module hooked up and tapped into one of the green wires behind the a/c heater controls or tap into where it tee's together. The only way around the body control module I believe so far is to use a 3100 pcm flashed to a 3400.
How ever last night I finally put the amp back in for my subs. Where when running it kept going into protect mode for to high of voltage. Which it is the digtal kicker sx650.1. So I dug out the volt meter to find it charging at 15-17 volts. Where I am at a lost as to why it is charging so high. The charging circuit is hooked to the grandam pcm where the red wire off the plug goes to the grand am pcm. Then the orange wire is hooked to a 12volt fuse in the underhood fuse box. Then I added the grey wire to the plug and ran it to the jbody pcm to turn the battery light off.
Looking at the diagrams for the grandam I see the gauge cluster and body control module in the diagram, but nothing stands out as to why it would be charging all the time. So anyone have any ideas?
Ok I got some debugging done on the charging issue. Where in the above diagram which is the grandam one, you see the red control and a orange 12volt fused wire. The only thing I have added to that diagram is the grey wire for the battery light on the cluster. In my debugging I decided to pull the 12volt gen fuse which is what I hooked to the orange wire in the diagram. When I pulled it I decided to start the car where the voltage dropped right away to 14.7. With the fuse in it jumps to 16-17 volts so any ideas what the wire is actually doing? I drove it around for a about 30 mins with the headlights on and system turned up, should be around 1000rms draw with both the amps. Where it holds a steady 14.7.
What's happening is when you're adding that wire for your battery light, you're adding resistance so the regulator is seeing a lower system voltage. It's trying to compensate so that it sees 14 volts.
If I were you, I'd leave all that out, and ditch the battery light. Get a volt meter if you really need to know how much battery you have.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
I don't really need to know the voltage, but that doesn't make much sense if any to me. As the grey wire is still there and has been there to be honest. I don't get how the regulator would be seeing lower voltage either when everything in the car is running at 16volts with the gen fuse in. From that battery that is in the trunk, to the amps in the back, to the headlights and all that jaz. Even the pcm was seeing 16volts while the car is running.
I may not be getting what your saying or maybe you didn't read my post. But the grey wire is on the same prong as the jbody alternator, it runs to the jbody pcm. Then the orange wire is ran to the under the hood fuse box in the spot labeled gen fuse. With the red trigger wire hooked to the grand am pcm.
When I pull the fuse off the orange wire removing the voltage from it. The voltage drops to 14.7 and holds steady, when I put the fuse back in applying the voltage on the orange wire the alternator starts overcharging at 16-17 volts again.
Maybe the regulator is messed up, you could take it in and let the parts store test the thing.
What is the voltage on the red wire coming from the starter solenoid when it's running? And what is it when you pull the fuse from the orange wire?
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
