Well I decided to remove the upper core support and fab in a 2X2 1/4 inch thick square stock tube and use a Montana upper mid-engine mount with several other mods to make it work. I'll take some pics when I get to it.
I've already made the upper mount and attached the cast iron piece to the engine from the Montana. I just need to remove the rad. and the upper core support and weld the new steel in. I will also add gussets going from the new upper core support and the frame. this will also facilitate any performance mods made later that will increase the engines HP.

Ok here are some pics




the car seems to be hooking up much better!





I'll have some video tomorrow

Here's some info on it.

Hmm, I should look at my trans mounts since I tore the @!#$ out of my last upper mount.





i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick

I know you guys are running a different setup, how ever I'm using the stock upper j mount on mine. With poly filled tranny mounts and wishbone, where I haven't busted anything. Beat on it every day and went to the track today. Went with a buddy that has a srt4 where I got 3 runs in before he snapped a axle clear off so had to fix it instead. Best was a 2.223 60ft, 14.506 at 95.79 on street tires. I was hooking ok but wheel hopped bad on the 14.5 where I guess I took another axle out as it thumps on the left side and pulls to the left. How ever my mounts are fine and moves some due to upper mount being untouched but not much.

Which upper mount are you using? The Grand Am mount, or the J-body with the adapter?





i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick

I believe I said it above as in the jbody but no adaptor. I made the upper bracket and lower wishbone one. Tranny side and bottom of motor doesn't move really but as I said the upper mount is stock. So when I launch u can feel the upper right corner of the motor twist and spring forward when I change a gear. When I get time I will either fill it or do the insert.

Oh, missed that part.

The stock N-body upper can't take the flex. I broke 2 of them, at a pretty close interval too. And they broke badly. Anyone running the N-body upper need additional engine torque restraints like pictured above, or a different mount. The J-body upper is made to take some flex.





i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick

Yeah take a look!
when mine let go I was in the middle of a burnout then bang bang bang WTF pulled out and took a look. The mount let go so bad the alternator was hitting the firewall and dented it in a bit and well,
you know the rest.

That "flexing" seems to allow and even encourage wheel hop which lowers our times on the quarter. No more of that for me. Hopefully! lol

What's next I wonder?

Yea I remember when you were breaking them, though I meaning wouldn't it be better to just go back with the jbody mount? Though now that I think about it the ones running the n-mount cut the bracket off that the jbody mount set on don't you? Pretty sure there is a piece under it off my head any way.

I used the j-body body mount with the 94-95 n body motor mount bolted in it, I had no issues, and I used to brake torque the hell out of it on launches.


- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs

Lol I've went through two sets of front tires in around 8k so far and been fine as well.

I went with the other mount because it was a lighter set up. My bad! live and learn.

Oh yeah, It took a while for me to break my first one with the 14" wheels on it, then I put 16" wheels on it and then the mounts started breaking one after the other.

2fast4u88 wrote:Yea I remember when you were breaking them, though I meaning wouldn't it be better to just go back with the jbody mount? Though now that I think about it the ones running the n-mount cut the bracket off that the jbody mount set on don't you? Pretty sure there is a piece under it off my head any way.

Not necessarily. I bought the solid N-body upper from WOT-tech before it got discontinued. Expensive piece, but there's no more twist. Otherwise, you could just add to the upper rad. support and put the other restraints on like Bill did ITT. Though, for an all-stock look on the j-body, the upper mount adapter is the way to go.





i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick

I was thinking about a v6 swap except I was going to use the 3100 from my 97 Monte Carlo with the 3400 top swap and 3500 uim and TB and 3800 SC injectors and a custom grind cam and custom made headers.

mike woods wrote:I was thinking about a v6 swap except I was going to use the 3100 from my 97 Monte Carlo with the 3400 top swap and 3500 uim and TB and 3800 SC injectors and a custom grind cam and custom made headers.

If you haven't checked out 60degreeV6.com yet, check it out. Lots of information on building a 3x00 engine over there, and the WOT-Tech store there has tons of cam options. If you're interested, I have the custom mount for that year 3100 engine available with the Y-bracket that goes on the timing cover (didn't come on the Monte Carlo, IIRC).

mike woods wrote:I was thinking about a v6 swap except I was going to use the 3100 from my 97 Monte Carlo with the 3400 top swap and 3500 uim and TB and 3800 SC injectors and a custom grind cam and custom made headers.

If you're not porting, the 3400 UIM has more flow than the 3500's does. Why not use Trailblazer injectors? L67 injectors are only 33lbs (36lbs if you run them at 50psi) and are good for about 300whp. You could get Trailblazer injectors which are 40lbs (though in a TB they run at higher psi so they flow more as well). Figure if you're putting bigger injectors once and looking for a certain power level, swap to something appropriate for that power so you don't have to swap injectors again later.





i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick

OK guys new problem,
lately the car falls flat on it's face when going from 2nd to 3rd during a power shift "as one would do in a drag race" 1st gear tires spin easy to 6K RPMs 2nd tires still spin to 6K and third depending on surface tires spin more or less and then the car just no longer increases RPMs and after maybe 2-3 seconds of a floored pedal the car begins to increase RPMs and speed.
when the car did this the first time I thought it was the clutch slipping but my RPMs do not spike or rise they just stay steady with a slight increase but it's was slight! and like I said the tires are spinning at first but when they seem to stop spinning the car does not accelerate like it used too. as if i backed off the throttle a bit to maintain that speed or RPM.
it all most feels as if something binding or some how causing the engine to come under a massive load that takes a couple of seconds to overcome.
If I'm not in it from the start then it seems normal and spunky as if it's OK. even if I just do a third gear pull on it does just fine, it's only when I'm on it from the start does it have this problem. this started happening out of the blue and I haven't been able to make a hard 1,2,3 shift since.

oils at 40 psi
temps around 160*

I suppose it could be the clutch but I would like a second opinion. I don't smell anything. don't get me wrong I drive it like I stole it all the time but dang so soon after I installed the new clutch? I have heard of this happening to these cars after a swap. also could the fly wheel be "glazing up" I did have the flywheel turned before I installed it.

if it's the clutch what would be a good replacement?
the clutch that's in it now came from, dare I say, Auto zone and it's probably the cheapest one anyone can get.

It is cold out side 30* +/- 5*
high octane gas "like 93 or what ever they sell at the pump"

well let's hear it.

yep it's the clutch.

I can still drive it though, and will, just not hard.
weather permitting I'll install drilled and slotted rotors and pads and wheel bearings next month.

I'll pull the motor this spring.
now to find a clutch that will hold up to 280hp and hopefully the tranny hangs in there.

really no a fan of that upper mount looks like a dogs breakfast i hop its temporary



JBO since July 30, 2001

yeah well it looks like crap but it works. that is, until this morning. It will likely be totaled tomorrow when the insurance guy comes out to look at it.
yes I was in an accident I'm fine, as if anyone cares LOL but the car did not fare so well. the drivers door, fender, bumper, grill, head light, turn signal, rim, hood, steering and suspension and possibly the sub frame took a hard hit.

So my question to all you out there.
Since it was not my fault what are the chances of me to get a little extra out of the insurance company because it is somewhat of a custom car?

If the additions were not known by the insurance company before the accident....no extra at all.

My insurance guy has a copy of my mod list, and is insured accordingly.





PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

well, that 's kind of what I am talking about. it's not my insurance co. paying for the damages.
as it is, if were to cause an accident my insurance would not cover any damages to my car. but if someone else hits me and I'm not a fault, which is the case, then shouldn't I get my car back the way it was before the accident complete with mods and if the car is totaled then shouldn't I get proper compensation?

thanks for your input MD-Enforcer. what you have said is true for our personal insurance.

but I'm hoping to break even on this car including my man hours.

I mean, if that guy were to hit a corvette the insurance company would be out no less than 12K. so I'm thinking if I could squeeze 3500.00 out of them I would be happy. but I would even take less and still be happy. Now, I know when you build a car like one of these you'll never recoup all your money when you sell them but it was in an accident and I believe, or hope, that the insurance company will make it right by giving me the compensation that is do.

If nothing is on file at your insurance, I do not think there insurance will pay any extra. That is the way it was explained to me.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO