DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) - APU wrote:JRTHOMPSON wrote:you have to use the eco tranny shifter bracket
my trans came with that bracket so I didn't have to swap it over. Of course thinking about it more carefully are you sure they aren't the same? it is the same transmission after all...
partially true both f23 but different versions hence y they are engine specific eco cable bracket has a different angle where the bolt goes into the bell housing... ill see if i can get a pic of the 2.4 bracket. eco one is on the car and i don't feel like pulling it off.
DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) - APU wrote:JRTHOMPSON wrote: cannot use 2.4 radiator does not flow coolant properly
first post wrote:-Ecotec radiator* * 2.4 swappers may not have to change these parts, however for 2200 OHV swappers it will be required
that was my mistake on reading it wrong but should say should not instead of may not.
DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) - APU wrote:[JRTHOMPSON wrote:make sure you stick with a ecm that is specific to the motor you have
first post wrote:-Ecotec engine with all accessories, wiring harness, and ECU
here is the current issue i am sitting at i picked up an ecu for the same motor i have and getting codes galore. one thing is my current ecu is for an auto. i have a manual. but its throwing codes for tranny and communication errors. see i don't know if i have a bad ecu or auto ecu don't work properly on manuals(besides tranny codes) this is what i was referring to also as well as the year of ecm.. if you have info to help me with this please pm me.
quote=DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) - APU]
Quote:
info on changing the evap vacum lines, fuel vacum lines, and the line coming out of the firewall(i still dont know what its for),
I could have swore I mentioned this in the original post, but apparently I didn't.
the hose coming out of the firewall is for the HVAC. without a vacuum source, the vents won't change position (defrost to front vents, front/feet mix, feet only, etc)
thats what i figured on those but was weird before i hooked it up everything operated properly but oh well.
im just try to help get it straightened out for the people piecing this together. please don't take my responses in the wrong way
the auto ecu will throw 6 or 7 codes when its used on a manual car. you'll also have a pretty low idle. if you can find one for a manual you'll be fine.
ditto on the responses i'm not trying to contradict you.. I want this post to be the definitive resource for people looking to do this swap. there's somethings in the first post I'd like to change the wording around to better explain and convey a clearer picture as to what needs to be done.
the feedback you've given is exactly what i'm looking for from anyone who's done the swap and found anything out or sees anything else missing. now all I need is for it to be stickied so I can add pictures and start making some edits
I can try to provide photos to if you need i have a flikr link in nightmares post to my photos
STICKY THIS ALREADY
STICKY THIS ALREADY
STICKY THIS ALREADY
also could someone with hpt be able to program the ecm as a manual ecm
for any one needing the the fuel return lines heres the part numbers
22694865 the little pipe
an
22663966 for the long one.
SATCH PROGRESS THREAD!!!
In Loving Memory of Phil Martin December 14 2005
Alexis: Dustin, you're ghey, lol. I am better. I have tits, and tits rule all.
This post is great so far the instructions are great installing the Eco in my car this saturday
I SATCHMOE YOU!!!! wrote:for any one needing the the fuel return lines heres the part numbers
22694865 the pipe
an
22663966 for the hose.
Fixed it for you Jeff... Thanks bro
Click Sig for Jersey GM's Official Website
pj also for got to add heater hoses and the plastic piece that seperates the engine and motor needs trimed. ill try to add others if i think of them.
JRTHOMPSON wrote:also could someone with hpt be able to program the ecm as a manual ecm
Yes it could be done with HPT. You can also turn off the auto codes and raise the idle.
Please DO NOT STICKY this. Put it in the library.
FU Tuning
John Higgins wrote:JRTHOMPSON wrote:also could someone with hpt be able to program the ecm as a manual ecm
Yes it could be done with HPT. You can also turn off the auto codes and raise the idle.
Please DO NOT STICKY this. Put it in the library.
thanks john thats answer ive been wanting to know. either way sticky or not it would be nice if pj could be able to edit and add pictures to make this a simple process with all the info in one post.
I just finished my ECOswap saturday. the only 2 things i notices were my 2.4 Throttle cable was WAY too long so i swapped to the Eco one from my parts car. my 2.4 cruise module was similar but the cable end was a little different so i swapped it out too.
Then the Shifter Cable mounts in the engine bay are different from the 2.4 getrag tranny to the eco getrag tranny.
other than that the swap went extremely well.
how come nobody has any pics of this?
hey i was looking at your profile... where in new york are you located?
Albany/wnantskill/saratoga. yes i am all over.
As far as fuel lines, I had to use small hose clamps and cut the line down to rubber to get it to work. GM dealers don't stock these parts and it takes days to get them. I'll replace it when I get a chance but it hasn't leaked for 6 months now.
Very important to re-mention that you HAVE to get the shift cable bracket for the top of the Ecotec trans. The 2.2L and the 2.4L have been confirmed to not work even with modifications.
Other than that, it's been a great effort PJ. I'll be glad to see you get the credit you deserve from getting it as a STICKY.
When I busted my LN2, I would've NEVER attempted (or even thought it would work) the L61 swap without having these posts and walk thrus from you. Great job and keep breaking new ground. I love it when even your own Jbody brothers say it can't be done (or it's not worth it) and you show them otherwise.
My favorite is when you first hit 14 flat with basic bolt ons while others where still making mid 14 second passes on boost. Priceless!
I have the 2.4 shifter cable mount point and i modified it to work with with the eco trans we drilled a hole through it and mounted it to the same bolt hole been driving the car for 3 weeks and it works great. i will take some pics when i get my camera back.
bumping this back where it belongs
hey there.
i have a 2001 z24, 5 speed. just swapped a 03 ecotec into it. used the walk through posted. made so much eaiser. but, some things i ran into.
the engine mounts for the z24 are too tall, had to use the ecotec ones for upper and tranny.
the z24 throttle cable was perfect length... but the end was a cylinder, compared to the ecotecs ball end. no big deal.
all the rad hoses worked except the upper. cant seem to find one anywhere. the ecotec one that the dealer ordered for me was waaaaay too short. any ideas?
of course the shifter cable bracket is not compatable. as i read in recent posts. thanks
thats all i noticed so far. aside from my z24 being a full load with abs, ac, cruise etc. and the ecotec i swaped was barebones... i dont like abs or ac anyway lol.
here is the only big issue im having, and really hoping someone may haev some insight.
it wont start. everything is hooked up right. at least myself and the 2 mechanics that helped me think it is. it will turn over but not fire. did the passlock and the fuel prime. the little valve on the fule lines splurts lots of fuel when pressed. oil level is fine, all the fuses are fine crank sensor fuse is good. etc. please help with any ideas. ask me questions, im not a mechanic, but i can tell you what we did etc if you direct a question at it.
one thing is, we tested the wires going into the coil pack. only the pink one shows hot when car is off, or ignition is turned. the other 5 show nothing in either state.... could this be the issue.
the engine worked fine, as we drove the donor car onto the lift before we dropped the engine out.
hopefully tomorrow taking the car to a guy that has a high end scan tool, that will read codes even if engine does dont turn.
Thanks very much.
pull the coil pack out and sit it on top of the motor with boots and plugs hooked up and see if you get spark. if not follow the harness down and make sure it has a good ground. also after your ignition is on does the theft light go out. if not then let it sit till it flashes (approx 10 min), turn car off then try to start. just a couple things to try before taking it to a mechanic. could also end up being the ecm. lots of stuff you need to check and go through. gl.
Ben Bain,
i used the Ecotec Rad Ecotec Rad hoses.........the 2.4 Rad is a Pain in the ASS to get to work with the Ecotec.
for the starting issue i had that when i tried to change BCM in the car
unplug your battery for a couple hours plug it back in and try and do the passlock again it should work.
thanks for the responses. left the battery out all weekend, on a charge. tried again today and no go. im workign side by side with a good mechanic on this project. and he is very familiar with the cavy/sunfire product. he fixes lots of smashed cars in the run of a year. so he did all the passlock stuff. we didnt have time to try the coil pack thing. and even i know that you should look to see if there is fire from the plugs... will keep you posted. thank you much.
when you swapped stuff did you change the BCM in the drivers side kick panel???
whenever i try to switch out my BCM to the one that belongs with my motor i cannot get my car to do the re-learn
but when i put the original 00 BCM back in it relearns and starts fine..........
I dont know what a bcm is.... but ill ask my buddy helping me.
went to the chev dealership today and they told me that the air bag modual under the passenger seat has a relay to the ignition...and to unplug that... still didnt work. also tried fuel straight into the throttle body nothing.
just to verify , these are the ecotec parts i am using. engine, and all the stuff attached to it, wire harness, tranny, and ECU. i followed the walk through that is posted here.
is there anything else i should have ?
im am getting so many varying instructions. some say i have to replace the wireing harness all the way back to the tail lights. others say i need to change the key/ignition modual to match the ecotec. or i need the dash cluster out of the ecotec, or since mine is digital , it should work.
anyway, any suggestions again would be great. im sorry that im so sporratic, but im learning about all this as doign it. thank you.
