Someone tried to steal my '01 Cavalier LS by breaking off the outside of the ignition lock cylinder on the steering column and then jimmying the key slot with a screwdriver. That didn't work for them, but it did disable the car.
I could insert the key, though it was somewhat rough, but could not turn it.
Since I couldn't turn the key to the Run position, I drilled out the cylinder lock button, pulled the lock cylinder, and replaced it with a used cylinder from eBay.
Question #1: I borrowed a copy of the factory service manual, and it says to rotate the key 5 degrees counter-clockwise while inserting the replacement ignition lock cylinder. That made no sense to me, so perhaps someone can explain it.
My starting position was that the ignition actuator was still in the Off position because that's where the no-key procedure leaves it when you pull out the drilled cylinder. But to insert the new cylinder, you have to turn the new key to the Run position to get the lock button to drop. Therefore the actuator has to be rotated into the Run position so the cylinder can slide all the way in. This I did, but the 5-degrees thing is still a mystery. Maybe it's important and I don't know why.
Question #2: I expected to have to do the 10-minute relearn procedure, or maybe the 30-minute relearn procedure, both of which I think can be done without a factory scan tool. But I have done at least 6 cycles of the 10-minute process. The car will crank and occasionally fire for a 1-2 seconds before stalling.
From what I have read, this seems to indicate that the BCM is not receiving a Passlock signal voltage that it likes. So maybe the relearn procedure didn't work, or something more is broken, or the replacement lock cylinder is defective, or .....??
I borrowed an OTC OBD II scanner from Autozone ($150 deposit), which reported no DTC's. I had hoped that it might report some parameters like Passlock Data Voltage and a couple other Passlock parameters, but no success with that.
I can also borrow a Actron CP9190 scanner from them for $500+ in the hope that it might give me better data. Anyone know if it might? (I suppose that's Q #3.)
If your TheftPass light stays on after you turn on the ignition it is more difficult to reset the system , then if it is just blinking.
Probably a dumb question to ask, but there is a wire that has to be hooked up to the ignition lock that works with that TheftPass feature. Is it hooked up?
I simply replaced the entire steering column on the '02 I have - with another from the salvage yard (using the "new" lock barrel from the salvage car) successfully. If you can't get your stock lock barrel to work you can go that route and it will work. Just make sure you go with a column out of the 2nd phase 3rd gen that uses the TheftPass also.
The Theft light blinks for 10 minutes and then goes off.
Yes, the 3-wire pigtail is connected to the lock cylinder.
I saw your other thread where you replaced the whole steering column to solve your problem. I thought about replacing the whole column initially, but the car was in a parking lot some miles from home, and that seemed like a hard option.
After I installed the used lock cylinder, even though I couldn't get it to start, I was able to release the steering and shift locks and pull it back home with a tow strap and a helper. Now I have more options, including replacing the steering column, but since I already bought the lock cylinder I thought I would try to make that work first.
It seems that a programming scan tool is required for the relearn procedure.
What I did instead: I salvaged the outer cylinder lock case from the butchered original. That contained the original Hall Effect sensor. After a little grinding/sanding to clean up the case, I slid in the new cylinder core and started the car!
Great job John! Really happy for you!!
As long as you can get around , you'll have time to get another lock or column when you have the money and time.
I bet GM didn't invision your solution when they were engineering their anti-theft protection! Great idea!