first and foremost : you shouldnt have your nitrous system armed while on civilian roads... be safe and take it to the track.

2. wot switch activates when the throttle is fullopen then the nitrous begins to spray. wether it be 1-2-3-4-5 gears or even at idle and you rev it wide open and your nitrous is armed it will spray causing detonation. now to help this problem they created a little something called a window switch (a rpm switch as i like to call it) what this does is you set the switch to run between lets say rpm range of 3300 to 6000, when your car reaches the beginning 3300 rpm's it will start spraying the nitrous and will stop spraying when you hit the 6,000 rpm's.

window switches are rpimarily for safety of the engine and a very good thing for nitrous noobs.

3. that kit you posted is ok i guess but i would not suggest it to you. i would go with a zex wet meaning your nitrous newb until you get use to the feel of the nitrous then get a nx kit. the reason i say this is, the zex wet are almost noobproof- meaning- that it monitors the system and if anything is wrong, it shuts off saving you from much money in rebuild after detonation.

one downside of the zex wet kit is that all the jets and things are controlled by a single box unit, reason this is a downside is if something goes wrong it can be hard to pin point.

im going to go with the zex wet this late summer im hoping and if not by then, deffinetly early next summer. im just been finishing the interior and am going to build the motor a bit to get ready for the nitrous.\

4. and ill restate this agian please dont use nitrous on the street... take it to the track, save your life and the life of one of my family members.

im not going to take advice from you if you dont have n2o already, sorry. nitrous is almost noob proof.its not that hard if you understand it, which im pretty sure i have the hang of it. does anyone else have an opinion on the kit i posted? and i can monitor my own system, as long as i have a fuel pressure guage, hell i could even buy the fuel monitor thing that shuts it off if it gets too low. right?

Yea, that kit would be perfect for what you're trying to do! The only way I'd rock a push button is if I had an auto and you do so go ahead. I will say the chance are extremely higher of you messing something up, just because of reflexes or something like that.

The WOT switch can ONLY be activated when the nitrous is armed. You can be mad in traffic and smash the gas and be ok as long as the nitrous and fuel solenoids weren't activated. Now if it were activated and you smashed the gas, you'll just spray through first.

Since you do have an auto, I'd highly recommend that RPM window switch as your engine/tranny isn't used to seeing the extra power and once you're spraying it'd probably hit the rev limiter a tad bit before shifting, thus, affecting your fuel supply, thus spraying only nitrous into your car causing a small or medium case of detonation. If you were ever racing on the road or highway (hopefully you don't, but it is your car and life) it would fullly detonate if you ever got it up to the 107-110 speed limiter.

A Fuel Pressure safety switch (fpss) is a great little option too!

Also to Drake, it's ok to spray on the roads, it's just entirely reckless to go crazy spraying on the roads, as in doing an excess of the speed limit just to see how fast it can go. I always use my nitrous to pass a faster car or to get past a car to get into position to get off an exit. haha, nothing reckless though!

And to JWagg, It seems that Drake has learned a good bit even though he doesn't own a kit. Everything he's told you is either the truth or his suggestion for you to be safe! No reason to dog on him!

Later!


N2O + Bolt-ons = 220Hp/250Tq

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Quote:

And to JWagg, It seems that Drake has learned a good bit even though he doesn't own a kit. Everything he's told you is either the truth or his suggestion for you to be safe! No reason to dog on him!

Later!

thanks bball....

just because someone doesnt own something doesnt mean they dont know anything about it... im just trying to help you out in the long run and avoid problems early....

oh btw - bball - i only posted about not using it on public roads because i know how some people are, and meaning he was calling it "NAWS" earlier i just assumed.

JWAGG- if you think that nitrous is the fix everything ,no worries miracle then heres 2 good reads:



Detonation

Nitrous Nate

both are knowledgeable in nitrous... so think again...

Lata

no, i know, and i have read a lil too, im getting better, i knew it wasnt called NOS, NOS has become a standard name, people call nitrous NOS.......same way people call nose tissues Kleenex, even if they arent the kleenex brand. If i didnt get the FPSS, and i just used a fuel pressure guage, would that be okay? also, what do you mean by reflexes?

The RPM window switch. im a little confused, sayi activate the nitrous, and im going along in first, and i have the RPM window switch set to come on at 3500 rpm-6000rpm, after it switches into second gear, if the RPMS drop below 3500 will it stop spraying?

Can you spray off the line?

yes it wil stop spraying after it drops below the 3500 rpms you have set. yes you can spray off the line. but id be very careful spraying in first, cause its a very short gear.

to tell you the truth i would either not hit the set rpm range on the rpm switch in first or not go fullthrottle in first,
hell id upgrade my clutch to spec 2 or 3 then just launch in 2nd and spray straight through wot..

if i dont get the window switch, i need to stop spraying when the car is shifting right?

sorry, i didnt mean to be a dick before, its jus tlike taking advice about how to win a fight from someone who has never fought before.....i guess

is your car automatic or manual...

if its a manual it should stock spraying when you let out on the gas pedal to shift...
the automatic im not to sure. i would play it safe on an automatic and get a rpm switch -window switch-

For the fuel pressure gauge, if you get a mechanical gauge it must be mounted under the hood. If you want to read it inside get the Electrical gauges.

A guage won't prevent your engine from detonation, so I'd get the safety switch instead. A Fuel pressure gauge is more important to have on a boosted set-up more than a nitrous set-up. It's good to know where your fuel pressure is at, but like I said, it won't instantly prevent something from happening like the switch would.

Also, by reflexes, I mean like. lets say you're racing someone on the track or somewhere similar! After a few runs with the nitrous you'll notice the times drop but through common sense you'll know they can be better if you spray through first. If you launch and try an manually spray in first you have a good chance of screwing somethign up because of natural bad reflexes.

If you had a WOT switch coupled with a RPM window switch (highly recommended set-up for auto entry level n2o set-ups), you could TQ brake your car, smash the gas and wouldn't have to worry about anything happening until that first set RPM limit, you'd spray through first, and it'd cut at your other set RPM limit right before shifting into 2nd, and so on and so forth.

I promise you, the WOT switch is god sent for people spraying nitrous on a budget. The big boys use high dollar controllers to engage their nitrous because it's one less thing you have to worry about when running down the track/street, whichever you run.


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bball i know this isnt nitrous related but my engine has alot of miles on it 145,000. like you know i want to go nitrous... i plan on doing some headwork pnp, valves lifters the works. just wondering if theres anything else i should do prior to the nitrous....

off the top of your head, do you know how much each of those switches are? the more i think about it, when your running a window switch, its almost like your boosted with a turbo, cause it kicks in at a certain rpm..right? kinda

[quote=DrÃkÉ]bball i know this isnt nitrous related but my engine has alot of miles on it 145,000. like you know i want to go nitrous... i plan on doing some headwork pnp, valves lifters the works. just wondering if theres anything else i should do prior to the nitrous....

Seems like you have a good plan there!

Only thing I can think of is to get a compression check and check your fuel pressure. Also, get a tune up or oil change, deffinately seafoam the car, and do the whole colder plug and premium fuel thing and you should be straight.

When you spray on the motor the first time, there will be a nice puff of black smoke coming out because of all the carbon build up inside.

Hmm can't think of anything else!

jWagg wrote:off the top of your head, do you know how much each of those switches are? the more i think about it, when your running a window switch, its almost like your boosted with a turbo, cause it kicks in at a certain rpm..right? kinda

I know the MSD usually goes for around $89-100 depending on where you shop! What you need is this though, both built into one! (by the way I love Dynotune products)
____________________________________________________

DynoTune Two Stage RPM Window/TPS Switch (711)

This 2 channel RPM activated window switch (RPMWS) also has an integrated throttle-position activation switch (TPAS)! The unit accepts most tach signals, including low-voltage and irregular signals.

Our Price: $129.00

____________________________________________________

2 in 1 is kicka**! And when you actually pay attention their ELECTRONIC TPS switch costs about $50 less than the 2 in 1 offered above. So you're getting a great deal if you ask me. I actually may eventually swap out to that set-up sice I just found that new product haha.

Their site is
Dynotune (if you're ever getting nitrous or accesories, save this url)

and the switch is located under Electrical Parts! They also have the best deals on bottle warmers. $70 for a manually controlled warmer!


N2O + Bolt-ons = 220Hp/250Tq

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okay, so that two in one switch will spray in a certain window when i have the gas smashed to the floor. I have been reading up on nitrous, i even went to barnes and nobel tonight and read about it for an hour or two..... my question is, im an automatic 2200, which you know, if i have it set up to spray 3500-redline, what happens when it shifts?? Does it keep spraying? is that good for it to spray through gears?

BTW< do you have a quick HOW to on how to hook up that setup? what about the separate setups? Im def thinking about getting a fuel pressure sensor too....any word about them? thanks for all your help.

I also read tonight, when installing a air fuel guage, you should drill a separate hole in your exhaust and buy another sensor for a more accurate reading. Will that keep it from bouncing all around from lean to rich??? cause i keep hearing invest in a air fuel guage, but everytime i see them, they just bounce back and forth......

That's what the switch is for........

you set it at, lets say 3200rpm, spray spray spray, then about 500rpm BEFORE redline you set your other RPM limit on the switch, thus it kills the nitrous both times. Once it shifts, if the revs are above your 3200 RPM switch it will engage again, if not it will stay off until it reaches that limit again.

Also, the DynoTune switch would work just as the MSD would, it just has the added on bonus of having a WOT switch incorporated to it. In this case though the WOT is replaced with a TPS sensor, which reads your throttle position instead of waiting for the TB lever to hit a switch set-up (like I have now). A TPS is more reliable since it's one less moving part and is controlled through the electrical part of the car. All you make sure you do is wire it up correctly and make sure the wire ends are secured and covered so they don't touch any other metal and short out (causing it to screw up).

Also with a write up on install, I haven't messed with that product yet, but I'm sure there's

-a ground wire going to bare metal or (-) side of the batt
-12-volt source wire
- TPS source wire (going to a wire located near your TB (will have to check up on this connections location)
-a wire going to a RPM source, which should be in your fuse box, behind the speedo gauge, or near the PCM
- and two other wires either going to each solenoid or rather one going to the nitrous kit's relay to de-activate it

And that's about it.

The FPSS goes in with your fuel line that you're running the fuel solenoid off of and the wire for that goes into the relay where I mentioned it on the first install summary.

Concerning the a/f guage. They're basially useless unless you get a Wideband o2 gauge, sensor, and bung. Which can run you quite a bit. To resolve the high price of all that, I figure I can buy the $650 PRO version of the HPtuners kit with the other readable ouputs on it and only have to buy the en-expensive bung and sensor. The Pro version of HPT's kit has inputs to where you can have 2-4 different sensors hooked up and it'll read and record it. And if you know anything about the HPT kit (read the FAQ in the performance forum) you can fully tune your car with it. The HPT kit tottaly eleviates the need for an MSD DISII, as it can retard the timing for you, allows you to run bigger injectors and also allows you to control the flow of those injectors. So to anyone with big plans with nitrous or boost, this software kicks A** with a capital A. Totally worth the $650 especially when a good o2 sensor kit and programmable DIS-II together can run into the $800-1000 price range, and also, don't waste your time on the $499 version when the extra $150 can save you so much more money. And for the record, the HPT plugs right into that little port under the steering wheel, easy as that. I won't even get into how difficult wiring a MSD is compared to a plug and tune device. And in the end, the HPT can do WAYYYYY more even after saving you a good thousand or so.

Ok, I can't post anymore...............3 more posts left, if you have anymore questions just PM me! Later


N2O + Bolt-ons = 220Hp/250Tq

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go premium! haah, you will have PM's

Quote:

yes you can spray off the line

thats a good way to snap an axle



Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!

i dont plan on it. i was just wondering. i have another question..... I keep hearing that when i am running nitrous, i need to make my setup more rich (as in lean and rich not cash wise) i thought i just had to make sure it wasnt leaning out......how do i make it richer if i have to?

how does the fuel pressure switch work?

Quote:

how do i make it richer if i have to?

you dont really have to unless you run a big shot. like 100. then all you have to do is put in a bigger feul jet. J's run rich from the factory. and i think NX setup is on the rich side as well

Quote:

how does the fuel pressure switch work?

makes the nitrous system shut off if the feul pressure goes below a certain point. i think its 35, maybe 40



Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!

okay, i cant figure this out. does this kit come with sileniods? i dont know how the hell the kit would work if it didnt.............

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NEX%2DML2000&view=1&N=0

the description doesnt give to much info.....


i cant tell what this kit comes with......it seems like their also one hose short in the hose department. looks like their missing one hose.... they have the tank to sileniod to Y fitting, but it seems like they have the fuel T to the sileniod, but not the fuel sileniod to the Y, if that makes sense.

i just got off the phone with summit.. they said those square things are sileniods........i guess ill believe them. anyone have any input?

here is a pic of my sileniods



the one toward my STB is my nitrous. the one toward my intake is the feul



and they both meet here

id get this kit
then this
the accessory kit is nice to have. purge kit, bottle heater, feul PSI safty switch



Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!

99redz24 wrote:here is a pic of my sileniods



the one toward my STB is my nitrous. the one toward my intake is the feul



and they both meet here

id get this kit
then this
the accessory kit is nice to have. purge kit, bottle heater, feul PSI safty switch

That's wasting alot of money buying those kits fully together.......

If anything I'd just buy a NX Stg 1 and piece together my own accesories........all that's really beneficial in a Gen X2 is the bottle warmer and FPSS...and you can get these items cheaper elsewhere....You can also argue about the about the purge kit, but I like to save my nitrous and you can piece together a purge kit for cheaper.

Also, spraying off the line will not break an axle........

Wheel hop will break an axle.......




N2O + Bolt-ons = 220Hp/250Tq

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i think im gonna put the N2o on hold for now, i have ordered parts for it, and i have them sitting here, so im gonna complete the set up within this month (graduation money ) but i have gotta get rid of this dam dropzone coilover setup.

Quote:

Also, spraying off the line will not break an axle........

Wheel hop will break an axle.......

tell that to the honda civic that was at my local drag track, that sprayed off the line and broke an axle



Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!