ok so i have the full zex dry kit i got from a guy for 150 bucks and im wanting to run it as a wet kit i know i have to get a solenoid and an fpr plus the right jets and a new nozzle the only thing i was wondering about was since i have a dry kit box (the purple thing) do i have to get a wet kit box or can i just connect the fuel and nitrous solenoids to an arming switch plus a w.o.t. switch and just run it like that or am i going to have to buy the box???
you don't NEED a FPR. Just the solenoid, the jets, lines, wet nozzle. You can skip the box like you were saying and just use the arming and WOT switches. My dry kit went thru every stage possible. dry ---> wet ---> direct port ---> plate
You want to make sure that you get the same series solenoid. You may want to just buy two new ones just to be safe. 150 sounds kinda cheap to have reliable solenoids. Also, clean the fittings and know that AN fittings should not have any plumber's tape in them. You do not have to over torque them either. You can use your old nitrous solenoid for purge instead.
You should also invest in colder plugs,
ignition switch to start the spray at 3K, never less, and end it before rev limiter, (for the life of me I cannot remember what its called right now). Mine is a DIS-RAS from MSD.
If you spray over a 75 shot on a stock motor and its your only car, I would suggest retarding timing at least 2 degrees.
Fuel pressure cut off switch is a good idea as well.
there are tons of posts on what you should do if you are going to spray on this site. Look around and you will find them (I know that wasn't what you asked but its good to know).
have fun! soon the cost of filling the bottle will get annoying. Spraying below 700psi isn't worth it, save it and go refill, it will be cheaper. The higher the shot the faster you have to refill.
jonathon walker, quick question for you since you have experience with the dry kit. does that "nmu" for the dry kit also increase the fuel delivered when spraying? does it tap into the o2 sensor or anything, because im trying to understand how the dry kits get the proper fuel for the amount sprayed; since it was suggested i go with a dry setup for my supercharged application instead of wet because the mix of gas and nitrous may damage the rotors of the supercharger.
anyone else have the info, that would be cool too
12.33 @ 111.67 mph [Oct 2009]
Dyno'd on 08/02/09 - Mustang Dyno:
327.6 WHP 333.6 WTQ [10.1 AFR]
a vacuum line going to the fpr raises fuel pressure while spraying.