N2O questions - Nitrous Oxide Forum

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N2O questions
Tuesday, March 17, 2009 10:12 AM
ok well first off I am a newb to the bottle..second I dont know much about nitrous..I was contemplating a supercharger and my friend seth made it very clear to me that I can get the same or better results from nitrous for 1/3 of the price..so now i ask I intend to run a 50shot on my grand am..I have pacesetter full 2 1/2" exhaust including header..msd coil packs..underdrive pulley..intake..cams..and i bought a tb spacer (mainly cuz i heard alot of ppl tap their nitrous in them)..i found a used nitrous kit for what i think is a really good deal it is a zex dry n2o kit with everything except the bottle and brackets for $200...1 is it a good deal? 2 what controls how much nitrous you run meaning how big of a shot?...sry if im an idiot, plz dont just harass me if i screwed stuff up, i admit im a newb...thanks in advance

Re: N2O questions
Tuesday, March 17, 2009 10:32 AM
I wouldn't pay $200 w/out the bottle.I got an Edelbrock kit(Ebay) with everything including bottle and bottle heater(no thermostat) for $300
The "jets" or in your case with a dry shot ,jet,controls the amount of nitrous and (or) fuel delivered.



15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
Re: N2O questions
Tuesday, March 17, 2009 10:58 AM
does a bottle heater typically come with a kit or is that just an option...thanks for the quick reply...
Re: N2O questions
Tuesday, March 17, 2009 11:14 AM
and another question- iver been reading that a wot switch is recommended, but wouldnt this be a bad thing if i would miss a shift? how do ppl remedy this do they use the rpm window switch? plz help..thanks
Re: N2O questions
Tuesday, March 17, 2009 11:30 PM
well either of the switches would work. One just simply sprays when you hit a certain rpm and the system is engaged and the other only does it when it feels WOT and the system is engaged. My recommendation is to use one of the two, but you must pick one. A bottle heater is almost imperative to a correctly put together kit because nitrous has to be at a certain pressure to be able to spray correctly, which is 900-1000 psi. Also i would recommend getting rid of the tb spacer and tapping a hole 6-8 inches from the throttle body because that is where the jet is recommended to be placed. I do have a nitrous dry kit for sale is your interested. It has the bottle brackets, bottle, solenoid line, bottle line, solenoid, a couple jets, and nozzle for 200. All you would need is the bottle heater and either a wot switch or rpm switch. hope this helps.





Re: N2O questions
Wednesday, March 18, 2009 1:24 PM
Luis Marroquin wrote:

well either of the switches would work. One just simply sprays when you hit a certain rpm and the system is engaged and the other only does it when it feels WOT and the system is engaged. My recommendation is to use one of the two, but you must pick one.


I run both the WOT switch and rpm window switch on my system, so picking only one isn't really necessary. It's more of a safety thing. I only get spray when the system is engaged, I'm running wot AND when I'm between 2900 and 5800 rpms (or something around there). Having both keeps you from spraying in that really low rpm range, even if you are wot. Just my opinion.




Now With More Carbon Fiber!
Re: N2O questions
Thursday, March 19, 2009 11:36 PM
ok well i would hit you up on ur kit, but i already ordered one so thanks but no thanks..where is the cheapest place to pick up a bottle heater, an a rpm switch, how easy ar they to install?
Re: N2O questions
Friday, March 20, 2009 5:07 PM
Just go with a WOT switch and the rest you can get on Ebay for cheap



15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
Re: N2O questions
Friday, March 20, 2009 5:09 PM
Forgot to add that an arming switch is incorporated into the system with your WOT switch,arm it,hit wot then it sprays,simple enough



15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
Re: N2O questions
Saturday, March 21, 2009 4:08 AM
the nice thing about a nitrous kit is that it is indeed a kit. Kits are never the end all, they can be added upon or removed. My dry kit turned wet before it landed in my cav. Then when I added the supercharger I also changed it to a direct port setup. After I decided to put it in my camaro, I ended up making it a plate setup under the carb.

a few things, on used kits

always make sure everything werks. Used solenoids can be the death of your motor. If the fuel solenoid doesn't werk, or the nitrous solenoid sticks. etc etc etc

Make sure the braided lines aren't frayed. Going from the bottle to the solenoid, or the solenoids to the jets.

Make sure the fittings aren't cracked. They are only aluminum afterall.

Be shure to check that the AN fittings do not have ANY plumbers tape on them. They do not require it and it can hinder their ability to seal.

AN fittings also do NOT have to be torqued to all high hell!

Be shure that any plumbers tape used is not covering a any orifices. This could hinder performance and cause a clog and death! lol


With that being said, you should never spray under 2000RPMs IIRC maybe 3K, so your 1500 cut off is pushing it. Your 6700 is pushing it cause that is exactly when you get fuel cut from the ECU, isn't it?

What kind of fuel pressure do you have? You might want to know that as well. Depending on your fuel pressure will depend on how well the fuel sprays thru the fuel jet in compensation to the nitrous jet.

Spraying below 700PSI is just a waste of time.

bottle heaters are your friend! they can keep the pressure up in your tank for longer periods of time.

You should get colder plugs, TR-6 plugs from NGK usually sold that issue.

when mounting the bottle, the tube within the bottle is closer to the side that the nozzle is on, so you will want to mount with the nozzle facing down. Or if you are mounting it sideways, you might wanna throw a bit of an angle at it, rotating it about 30*.

There is more that I have probably forgotten but this will get you started.

Oh, and as for fuel pressure, they do have cut offs, so if your fuel pressure lowers to a particular point it will cut power to the nitrous system.

Have fun, don't puss out on just a 50 shot. The car can probably handle a 75 if properly handled and the engine isn't already beat to hell. Anything over and you will want to look into retarding the timing, tho I know there have been a select few who have run a 100 shot without it, but its not highly recommendable, especially if its your daily driver.


AND FOR GOD SAKES MAN, SEARCH!



Re: N2O questions
Sunday, March 22, 2009 9:37 PM
hey thanks a lot for all the info man..i rly appreciate it...and i planned on a 75 shot but the kit that i found had a 50 shot jet and a 125 shot jet, so this is why i was only planning on running 50 for now just until i get the hang of it...i stopped at advanced and ordered 2 step colder plugs (and i believe i read somewhere that its recommended to run copper plugs; correct) and if im reading correctly you said i should put the nozzle side of the bottle at a lower point than the opposite end correct?

Re: N2O questions
Wednesday, March 25, 2009 8:57 PM
ok so i picked up 2 step colder plugs as i am getting ready for spray..the plugs are motorcraft..any goods or bad with these..they are copper plugs as well
Re: N2O questions
Tuesday, March 31, 2009 1:45 PM
someone plz help...installing this weekend
Re: N2O questions
Tuesday, March 31, 2009 1:55 PM
NGK TR6 plugs are what I used.



Re: N2O questions
Tuesday, March 31, 2009 4:55 PM
I used Autolite 103 copper plugs,NGK's are the best from what I hear but any 2 step colder copper plugs should suffice



15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
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