Yep guys...you heard it. It lasted through 1 shot at 950lbs of nitrous!!! I ran about 8 times last Saturday with the juice with about 700lbs in it perfect. Today, i got the bottle filled and went out to play. Hit it in first and it backfired through the intake. I was like OH CRAP. So I drove normal for a min...everything seemed fine. So, i hit it again...same thing happened. So I went out...hit it in 2nd...to 3rd to 4th (100) and it was friggen flying..then BOOM!!!! Its dead...#3(3rd one from the left) Cylinder spark plug is smashed. It WILL run but makes some funky noises!!!! So yeah, its time to get serious.
Basically im gonna need alot of part numbers for the 95-97 internals.
Im need tips (adler, some help?) on pistons etc...
This is gonna be fun!! <br>
Ouch. Good luck with that. <br>
O noes!
950lbs? what size jets? thats just as important as bottle pressure <br>
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It's cheaper to blow them up than build them up
sounds like the ur #3 piston is wrecked could be the ring or the whole thing i wouldnt run it again if i where u shits probley scrapin the cylinder walls and probley gonna coase more damage
look like its time to take it apart and see what happend but its good that it still turns other wise u would definately be screwed
Nitro = bad remeber that <br>
Yep...i guess it detonated. Looks like part of the plug was gone. And one of my other ones was kinda gone to. Obviously, they melted cuz I was running lean and finally, it detonated. Did it about 4 times But i wasnt done yet!! I wanted to go fast from 1st-4th
So yeah, i ran it for about 15 seconds earlier..took out the plug and it was kinda making some clickity clank but would run. Im gonna go ahead and just pull the whole motor out i guess. I could have it out in less than 8hrs so. Once its out, ill tear her down...see what the damage is, and then if the block is okay. Get to building. Thats all I can think of now. My income is 332 a week so yeah, its gonna be hard. Hopefully i can get a loan cuz my car IS payed off. Ill just give em my TITLE and get a loan for around 2k or so. I dont really know how much its gonna cost. Anyone know?
Forged pistons
rods
bearings
new push rods(stockers)
valves
headwork,1.6 roller rockers
maybe a cam?
cryo crank maybe?
Guys, I want a strong 2.2 I want to run nitrous regulary and safely! HelP!! <br>
u wanna be faster just swap in a 2.4 while ur at it cost u maybe 500 and then just open it up and put some forged interals, secret cams, port and polished head and u should be set runn u around 1700-2000 with all that
who needs a 2.2 lol i used to have one there not very strong and there pretty weak on the power out put comparibly to the 2.4 <br>
no...2.2
not swapping in a 2.4 ...I have all this stuff for a 2.2, why waste all my money on all those parts and start over? No
Keppin the 2.2....I need help..compression etc. HELP! <br>
Sounds like a glow plug(grounding strap is so hot it glows and will ignite the air/fuel mixture w/out any spark at all) caused some bad detonation there. Colder range spark plugs are a MUST. Even if you severely retard timing(I noticed you have a MSD), a glow plug could ignite the air.fuel mix just as soon as it enters the combustion chamber if it's bad enough(hence why you backfired). Since you're replacing internals now anyways, you have a good excuse to bore it out
. Don't cheap out on the internals. You may want to raise compression for more power while you're at it. But you you'll be buying only premium gas if you do(which is never a bad idea with any form of forced induction), and maybe unleaded Turbo Blue for the track if you throw on a big shot. Also make sure you're cooling system is up to the challenge. And I'd recommend you change over to a Full Synthetic oil, like Mobile 1 or Royal Purple(what I'd recommend
).
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I've never heard of this "part throttle" before. Does it just bolt on?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
oops I forgot 1 thing - make sure that you have enough FUEL to go with the N20. N20 has a greater concentration of Oxygen than does air, so you're A/F ratio will be too lean(and too HOT) if you don't take the appropriate measures.
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I've never heard of this "part throttle" before. Does it just bolt on?
BTW...I was running R42LTSM plugs. Theyre 2 degree cooler than stock. BUT, I guess it was running SO lean they melted. It sucks...but it doesnt.
So, if i was to bump up compression, whats the positive that comes from it? Also, can anyone give me a quesstimate on how much this is gonna cost (parts)?
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what kind of gas were you running in her? and anyone else running those plugs? <br>
<img src="http://www.importhookups.com/Accessories/Carbon_Fiber_Honda_Emblem_Set.jpg">
Was this a 50 shot or what?
yes...a 50 shot.
Also, I was running 93 octane with octane booster...it was plenty high.
Also..the R42LTSM plugs are AC Delco Rapidfire #8 I believe. 2 Degree cooler plugs gapped a .045. The gap was probably to big. Why they melted, i will never know! <br>
Is this a wet nitrous kit, or dry? Meaning, does it add more fuel, or rely on the stock fuel system?
Well, in my registry it says I have a ZEX kit. I have yet to see a ZEX WET kit...even though they "make em".
so yeah...dry 50 shot. Works off vaccum...makes injectors push more fuel. So its kinda like a WET kit but it doesnt have a seperate solenoid for the fuel. Anyways....its dry and I ran lean. I believe if I had a WET KIT this could have all been prevented (if my plugs didnt melt!!!) <br>
ive had my 2.2 last one bottle of zex at a 50 shot so far. im running the tr6's, which i first gapped to .038, but that made my engine run rich, so theyre at .04 now. Soon as I find a deal on a wet kit, Im definitely springing for one <br>
<img src="http://www.importhookups.com/Accessories/Carbon_Fiber_Honda_Emblem_Set.jpg">
Well this post makes me very happy i paid the money for the NX Wet kit for my car, Ive heard alot of horror stories witht he Zex kits, which i dont think work very well with the 2.2/2200 because the stock injectors are barly big enough to supply fuel at the stock 115/120 horse level(Cavy/S-10).
Im sorry for your bad luck, and will be following your rebuild as i may start building a new motor for future use when my stock engine decides to give up the ghost.
<br>
Mike
1992 GMC Sonoma GT #492, lots of mods in the works, currently on jack stands getting a make over, soon to be running 10.80's or better with a V6 and Spray.
1999 Cavalier Coupe, daily driver, 2200/5 speed. Has a custom CAI, 2.3HO TB Swap, NX Wet Kit-75 shot, MSD DIS-2, MSD Coils and coil interface modules, MSD 8.5 Wires, NGK TR6 plugs #4177, OBX Stainless Tri-Y Header, Dynomax Ultraflow, Custom Short Throw Shifter, RKSport AFPR, RKSport FSTB, Vibrant RSTB, relocated IAT, RKSport upper and lower poly engine mounts, ASP underdrive crank pulley, Brembo cross drilled rotors and PF pads, painted stock calipers(red) with stainless hoses.
Best time B4 TB mod, w/WAI and no juice was a 16.80@78 w/a crappy 2.44 60'
Best 1/8 mile w/TB, B4 Exhaust & Ignition mods and no juice 10.67@64 w/a 2.34 60'
Why the h3ll did u try to use nitrous after it already backfired 1 or 2 times??? Have some patience and find out what is wrong instead of forcing more down the poor motors throat... Also, I read all of your previous threads and it seems like you abused the hippy crack a lil too much for a high mileage motor.. Hitting the switch 8-10 times in one night is just not a good thing too do.. Losing a race or two is alot better than blowin a motor... Excess is not always a good thing...
I also agree with steve... Swap a 2.4 and be done with it... It was the best thing I ever did. My 2.4 with a few mods (minus N2O) is alot quicker than my 2.2 with a 50 shot.... Take a break... research... and settle down.... then take another stab at it.... <br>
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/sinistercav/personal_pic.jpg">
>I NEED SPONSORED!!!!!!!<
Swapped 2.2 to 2.4...
www.conceptionalrealities.com
www.jcarsofindiana.com
And get a WET kit!!! Dry is some scary shiznit... <br>
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/sinistercav/personal_pic.jpg">
>I NEED SPONSORED!!!!!!!<
Swapped 2.2 to 2.4...
www.conceptionalrealities.com
www.jcarsofindiana.com
You can't just SWAP in a 2.4 motor. You will need the 2.4 motor, transmission, starter, wiring harness, PCM, etc... It will be easier and cheaper to build a 2.2 for J.R. than doing a built 2.4.
Are you going to use your current 2.2 longblock or are you wanting to get a spare motor. I know of a local place (Dallas) that sells short blocks for $100, and about $70 for the cly head.
Are you wanting to go with a built motor or a stock rebuild? <br>
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
red96sunfire1022 wrote:LoL, I meant 950psi
lol, duh! Once again I wasnt asking how much pressure... I asked what jets you were using! It was now answered since you said you were running a 50 shot. <br>
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It's cheaper to blow them up than build them up
Its bad to spray 6 times in one night? WTF....
It was perfect that night!! I hung with a Z28 (no BS), i almost took a Mustang GT and beat a GTX (SLP edition GTP). It was fun while it lasted.
When it backfired the first time...I should have went home, pulled the plugs, and I would have known that was the problem. You think i care? NO!!! Im gonna build this thing!!!
I didnt wanna pull the motor if it was still running good...now thats its running just a tad ruff (hehe), time to build!
BTW Adler....e-mail me man (jrbyers96@hotmail.com)
If you have some extra time I would really appreciate it if you could give me some help. Basically, where you got your pistons, how much...rods etc.
and about that short block for a 100 and head for a 70? Is that reman or just used? <br>
Hey,
The main reason why my motor only cost around $175 to fix was because the cylinder wall was fine even though the piston broke. I didnt have to pull out the motor, and then get the block bored. I paid around $75 for 1 new piston, 1 piston ring set, and 1 set of rod bearings.
Federal Mogule sells the stock cast pistons for your 95-97 2.2 for REAL cheap!!!!! Arlington Automotive, in Arlngton, sells them for around $20 per piston. Their phone # is (817)261-9022.
If your connecting rod is not bent or damanged in any other way, I do not see why you cant use it. If you need another connecthing rod, I have a few laying around here.
Bishop Core Supply, I think that is their name, sells 2.2 long blocks for about $100 and a head for around $60-70. This is a core yard, so the engines are used and NEED to be rebuild before putting them in your car. I bought one 2.2 engine short block from them, and the only thing that I could see wrong is that the timing chain in both motors were broken. If anything on the motor is damaged beyond repair, you could exchange it with not cost to you. I didnt really care if anything else was wrong with the motor because just about everything internally was being replaced and/or machined with forged parts.
If you need anything else, let me know.
Oh yea, I don't think it is bad spraying alot in one night. Hell, I used to go through a entire 10 lbs in one night at the track!!! <br>
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
Well, Looks like i might be buying either a BRAND NEW car or a nice used one. That way i can have a nice car or truck to drive and dump all money into the sunfire. I believe im turning it into a race car or something. Something that can handle a 75 wet shot of nitrous all the time. All I want to do is run high 8's
Possible? YES!! Is it gonna happen? Better believe it.
I really need to learn somemore though. Im confused with all this piston stuff. I have no clue what I need. And i dont know nothing about compression.
Adler...basically im a internal newb. How much is this gonna cost me(parts) for basically, venolia pistions, rods,oil pump, bearings, valves, valve guides, pushrods(stockers?), lifters(stockers?), 1.6 roller rockers, headwork, ported IM and TB and well...thats about it. I can have it all put together CHEAP, thats not a problem. Also I can have it installed for CHEAP, thats not a problem. All machine work...will be cheap.
SO basically could I get a quick list of what im gonna need and a quesstimate of prices? THANKS DUDE!!
This is gonna be fun.... <br>
