i always usee red for pos and black/blue/silver for neg. basically, anything other than red. i always make red pos
wysiwyg wrote:ground to the tranny??
and yea, i use the opposite, dunno why, i guess i've always been a "dark is ground, light is hot" kinda guy, lol.
The TRANNY is mated to the ENGINE, which the ALTERNATOR is grounded to. You can ground all you want to the CHASSIS, but in reality, your engine and tranny are sitting in rubber, or urethane mounts. This way the current transfers from the Tranny, to the Red top under the hood, and also another 0guage ground goes from the Red top to the Chassis. The bolt on the Tranny is DIRECTLY under my INTAKE, and VERY accessable, and a short distance to the Battery. About 15 inches of wire I think.
^^^^ This was the pic that I messed the link up on earlier.
And I use SILVER for ground, I use to have RED for POSITIVE, but I took it all out and switched to BLUE to better match my car. I have so much SCRAP ) guage layin around. I bought a 25ft roll of Blue, and SILVER. Plus all the RED I use to have in my car.
yes, the alternator grounds to the engine, which is in turn mounted TO the chassis. You can ignore that in this equation by grounding your wire directly to the chassis. which is what i did.
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for reference...here is the positive connection on the alternator. This is looking from underneath the car.
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wysiwyg wrote:yes, the alternator grounds to the engine, which is in turn mounted TO the chassis. You can ignore that in this equation by grounding your wire directly to the chassis. which is what i did.
The ENGINE sits in MOUNTS, which ARE NOT a direct connection, they are joints that move. Stock mounts have rubber in them, My mounts have Urethane in them, You still should UPGRADE the ENGINE/TRANNY ground to the CHASSIS w/ the same size wire you are using for your POWER WIRE. If not, thats on you.
Thanks for the pic Wysiwyg... Seems pretty straight forward except for the space issue..
''If life throws you a curve, pop the clutch and drift it!''
James (ROLN19S) (JuicyJ) wrote:wysiwyg wrote:yes, the alternator grounds to the engine, which is in turn mounted TO the chassis. You can ignore that in this equation by grounding your wire directly to the chassis. which is what i did.
The ENGINE sits in MOUNTS, which ARE NOT a direct connection, they are joints that move. Stock mounts have rubber in them, My mounts have Urethane in them, You still should UPGRADE the ENGINE/TRANNY ground to the CHASSIS w/ the same size wire you are using for your POWER WIRE. If not, thats on you.
yes i know this...that is why you don't do either...and ground the alternator directly to the chassis!! forget about the engine and tranny. ground your battery to the chassis, and the alt. to the chassis. my two grounds have about 20" in between them....the engine/tranny isn't involved!!!
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but your Wire is EXPOSED, maybe I'm more into the Show aspect than you, I wanted mine to be there, but also look CLEAN.
rapfiend03 wrote:Quote:
is there a physical (not electrical) diffrence between ground wire and power wire? i mean is there diffrenet strands in power and ground? also whats the best way to cut 0 gauge wire?
anyone?
just the color. 0 awg is 0awg. if it's from different companies, there may be slight deviations in say the strand count, but it's all wire none the less.
and the way i cut the big stuff is just cut it all the way around and yank the insulation off. use a knife or something.
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Why fuse the + to the alt?
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Fire Fighter wrote:Why fuse the + to the alt?
why not? i fuse all my positive wires, you never know what could happen. especially a wire with that much current flowing through it.
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If i'm not mistaken, there's a fusible link in the stock alt-to-battery wire.. IF you replace the stock wire, it'd make sense to protect the wire just like the stocker was..
More importantly, what amperage fuse should go there? Say for a 1/0 wiring.. With 275A of potential draw, not that it'd ever pull that much though..
"If life throws you a curve, pop the clutch and drift it!"
Star Quester wrote:If i'm not mistaken, there's a fusible link in the stock alt-to-battery wire.. IF you replace the stock wire, it'd make sense to protect the wire just like the stocker was..
More importantly, what amperage fuse should go there? Say for a 1/0 wiring.. With 275A of potential draw, not that it'd ever pull that much though..
i used a 300 amp fuse. same with the 1/0awg going to the rear battery in my trunk.
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oh, and if you don't think you'll ever pull that much current...short your wire out to direct ground and see if your fuse blows. lol.
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Already had that happen a few years ago.. Smoked my mtx 81000d and both VC's on my sub..LOL The fuse didn't blow
haha..
I think i'll just go with a 300amp ANL...
I wonder how the stock alt is gonna handle this.. We'll see.
"If life throws you a curve, pop the clutch and drift it!"
Star Quester wrote:Already had that happen a few years ago.. Smoked my mtx 81000d and both VC's on my sub..LOL The fuse didn't blow haha..
I think i'll just go with a 300amp ANL...
I wonder how the stock alt is gonna handle this.. We'll see.
i'm running 3,000 rms on mine...alternator seems to be ok.
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What size fuse should I run then with 4 awg wire?
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???
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125 amp
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Hey to everyone..im curious about the big three..i have upgraded them but i think i may have done it wrong. I got 0g from the battery to the batt tray and then to the block in the stock locations...do i need to go directly to the chassis. Also the one that screws me up the most is the alt. I got a 4g wire from my pos of the alt to the battery. Do i leave the stock wire on or not? do i need to ground the alt or is the upgraded chasis to block enough.....i get alot of light dimming and i am not running much power acually i get light dimming when i get real close to redline..whickh i know is messed..any help guys????..phil
this post helped out alot!! someone should sticky the BIG 3 setup
and thanks for the pics too.
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Brian D.
