so the other nipple on the can would go.........
Sunfires... eh (Tom) wrote:
Predator wrote:so the other nipple on the can would go.........
to the intake.
What does the intake see?
Come on in kids, gather around...... its learning time.......
While I dont have my air/oil seperator hooked up on my engine, I will learn you on how they work, and why......
Vacuum is applied to the block to scavange blow-bye gasses. These gasses can dirty the oil faster, and also cause resistance in the block, slowing the downward motion of the pistons, potentanatly robbing HP.
The air/oil seperator (found on 2.3 and 2.4s stock), or in this case oil catch cans, catch the oil vapors that are in the crank case gasses. To help scavange these gasses, a tube is ran into the intake track, which is under Vacuum during WOT (and even under partial throttle). The oil vapors fall out ofsuspention in the cans, and the air is drawn into the intake track to be burned by the engne. On must cans, there is a site glass to see how full the cans are, and a drain to empty the oil when needed.
Under Boost, there is a positive pressure that builds up in the block, which will force its way out, BUT its still a good idea to have the second catch can line ran to the intake track, to help scavange, and to burn the gasses.
Just some info I have learned along the way (thanks Skilz
).
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
SpeedRacerZ wrote:Come on in kids, gather around...... its learning time.......
While I dont have my air/oil seperator hooked up on my engine, I will learn you on how they work, and why......
Vacuum is applied to the block to scavange blow-bye gasses. These gasses can dirty the oil faster, and also cause resistance in the block, slowing the downward motion of the pistons, potentanatly robbing HP.
The air/oil seperator (found on 2.3 and 2.4s stock), or in this case oil catch cans, catch the oil vapors that are in the crank case gasses. To help scavange these gasses, a tube is ran into the intake track, which is under Vacuum during WOT (and even under partial throttle). The oil vapors fall out ofsuspention in the cans, and the air is drawn into the intake track to be burned by the engne. On must cans, there is a site glass to see how full the cans are, and a drain to empty the oil when needed.
Under Boost, there is a positive pressure that builds up in the block, which will force its way out, BUT its still a good idea to have the second catch can line ran to the intake track, to help scavange, and to burn the gasses.
Just some info I have learned along the way (thanks Skilz ).
Good info. Now I was going to make one of these out of a old AC condsensor. We were going to allow it to drain back into the stock oil sperator so there you do not have to empty it every so often, and you keep the oil in the motor.
FU Tuning
sure thats what mine does... if you have the catch can in the oil goes there and the air escapes
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
Had the same idea John..... how wierd.....
WOT = wide open throttle......... foot to the floor....... mashing the gas........
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
welp you guys answered all the questions for me
. I did it cuz im not in the mood to clean oil off my damn motor if I dont have to. Its a fact that if you just run a line from the PVC to the intake you will get false MAP readings cuz it will be covered in oil! Who the fark want a bunch of oil in your throttle body, in the intake, and all over your valves.
Filter = nasty oil blowout
vacume line = nasty oil blowout back in your engine
catch can = no nasty oil in anything other than the can
no brainer for this guy.
-ruen- wrote:Thats a great idea!
This will defenatly solve my problem with that damn @!#$ty breather filter, that likes to spray oil all over on the underside of my hood.
I have a question though, after looking on the BWoody site, how do you dump it out?
It must just come out of those two nipples?
Aaron, did you just simply bend the lip, or did it come bent?
Yea i just bent the tab up for my mounting reasons
What about this one:
Looks nice, easy to install, oil-indicator and a magnetic drain plug that catches "metal-dirt" if there are any, shouldn`t be tough..
The best of all, costs only about 100$
Looks ok, I dont like how big and bulky it is though.
there is 3 reasons it is connected to the intake track
1 is to breathe filtered air , so you dont get any dirt in it
2 so the motor will injest the vapor under wide open
3 the epa wants the vapor contained
nice install. can i get a pic of your whole engine compartment now i want to see how it looks over all with the new can
thanks
John Higgins wrote:SpeedRacerZ wrote:Had the same idea John..... how wierd.....
WOT = wide open throttle......... foot to the floor....... mashing the gas........
Great minds think a like!!!! 
I gave chris this idea, and he did it on the GTZ..... works awsome!!! He drilled and tapped the bottom, and put a pet cock in it.... easy to drain.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Yep!
lots of watter and weard oil like @!#$ comes out........ but that motors old....
damn Quad-4 HO's!
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
i like the whole idea of the catch can but the way my cv line is ran into my w.a.i it(the blow-by) runs right down to my air filter,somewhat,i have to clean the filter more often but the oil doesn't get into the t.b. but the catch can seems the best way to go
15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:It's funny how everyone thinks the PCV needs vacuum. If you notice, the only time oil comes out is under boost when there is POSITIVE pressure, not negative pressure or vacuum. Take a hose, stick it on the nipple, stick the other on a catch can and your done. No vacuum needed people.
Your trying to catch the oil being pushed out, not suck it out. Commen sense.
Do you ever know what PCV means??? Positive Crankcase Ventilation means to use a vacuum source to help vent the crankcase. Without the aid of vacuum it would just a called "CV" instead of "PCV".
SpeedRacerZ wrote:Come on in kids, gather around...... its learning time.......
While I dont have my air/oil seperator hooked up on my engine, I will learn you on how they work, and why......
Vacuum is applied to the block to scavange blow-bye gasses. These gasses can dirty the oil faster, and also cause resistance in the block, slowing the downward motion of the pistons, potentanatly robbing HP.
The air/oil seperator (found on 2.3 and 2.4s stock), or in this case oil catch cans, catch the oil vapors that are in the crank case gasses. To help scavange these gasses, a tube is ran into the intake track, which is under Vacuum during WOT (and even under partial throttle). The oil vapors fall out ofsuspention in the cans, and the air is drawn into the intake track to be burned by the engne. On must cans, there is a site glass to see how full the cans are, and a drain to empty the oil when needed.
Under Boost, there is a positive pressure that builds up in the block, which will force its way out, BUT its still a good idea to have the second catch can line ran to the intake track, to help scavange, and to burn the gasses.
Just some info I have learned along the way (thanks Skilz ).
Word!
It will also help keep moisture and other contaminants out of your oil.
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.
Oh look I was right all along
And these would have a positive effect on any motor? well rather, even N/A? Or would there be little to no effect on an N/A motor?
boost or n/a doesnt matter , the air intake will suck anything it can inside
better to keep the oil out of the intake system as best as you can
Ok, so with the ones shown, You would only need a tube going from OCC to the intake and one going from OCC to the PCV nipple on the vavle cover for an eco, correct?
