i guess ill start the guessing now, ~240ish whp/ ~260ish wtq
im pretty sure wade made 217 whp with m45 iirc
so only gain 23 whp from m62 with and extra 6-7 psi?
23whp is a good gain
Wade, i would dyno with your exhaust on first, then with it off, to see if you lose any power with it off
Wade Jarvis wrote:
I plan on dynoing the car as it sits with it's completly stock save for the header exhaust and then with the cat lopped off so the only exhaust is the header and downpipe. I am really curious what kind of power I can gain by changing the exhaust.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
No iat sensor placement. You payed how many thousand$ for this set up?
You have everything else modded but dont want to relocate the battery? come on, that looks like $hit hanging off there like that. All that extra work that went into that little elbow (good welding b.t.w).
phenolic spacer. Brian when he was exploited came up with this way back when (after i was showing him stuff about Hondas). So all that work and you are going to rip it off just to put that on? Chances are it is going to leak. Why not hook up the meth injection( 99% of it is there) .
You space that S/C off the head 3/8th- 1/2 inch more with that phenolic spacer and your t/b contraption is going to hit the battery. Might have enough clearence by the raditor support and not sure how much flex the i/c pipes have.
I dont think it will break 250whp.
Have you dont a boost leak test on the set up? (should have been done when it left the shop).
No iat sensor placement. You payed how many thousand$ for this set up?
You have everything else modded but dont want to relocate the battery? come on, that looks like $hit hanging off there like that. All that extra work that went into that little elbow (good welding b.t.w).
phenolic spacer. Brian when he was exploited came up with this way back when (after i was showing him stuff about Hondas). So all that work and you are going to rip it off just to put that on? Chances are it is going to leak. Why not hook up the meth injection( 99% of it is there) .
You space that S/C off the head 3/8th- 1/2 inch more with that phenolic spacer and your t/b contraption is going to hit the battery. Might have enough clearence by the raditor support and not sure how much flex the i/c pipes have.
I dont think it will break 250whp.
Have you dont a boost leak test on the set up? (should have been done when it left the shop).
good luck and keep us updated!
I apreciate you telling me exactly how you feel about it.
I payed $1,500 to Brian. No doubt it should have had a place for the IAT sensor. All kits from here on out will have it.
Mounting the battery in the trunk would have been a better idea. Hindsight is 20/20.
As for the phenolic spacer I let it be known from the git go that it was important to me that there be one between the head and manifold. With the design of this manifold there is not room for it between the manifold and head. I have to rip it all off anyway to replace the wire that goes from the starter to the alt. Go ahead and ask Chris and Tom about that. So I will be taking it apart to fix that not to install a spacer in that location.
If I do get a spacer it will likely go between the manifold and supercharger. I do plan on hooking up the meth injection although the port injects it after the supercharger so is does nothing for keeping the supercharger cool.
I have no doubt it will break 250whp. I guess time will prove one of us right and one of us wrong.
A boost leak test was done by Brian before I picked the car up...not sure what made you think there were any issues related to boost leaks. I have also gone at it with a can of brake cleaner to check for vaccum leaks.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
.045 is way too big of a gap, gap them to .030 like jake suggests. i gapped mine to .030 from .045 and i stopped getting upper RPM misfires like you have.
there are 3 conditions that will warrant a blinking CEL. Rodimus and I found this out doing a lot of research years ago, before installing my msd
1. Obviously a misfire up top, most people would notice
2. Something to do with the amount of voltage your icm is seeing, like under hard wot your car obviously gains timing, well theres a certainamount of voltage required to do so, if you're using that much more voltage then required it will blink... (im pretty sure thats how it's explained, I couldn't find the link)
3. I cannot remember condition 3 but its extremely rare and and if it happens you'd know
but anyway sounds gorgeous, and I'd put money itd at 250whp+
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, October 22, 2009 3:30 AM
I will gap the plugs at .030. I just had not got around to it yet. They are the regular NGK TR6 or TR7 whichever one it is that is one step colder than stock. Or in other words the same heat range as what comes with the M45 kit form GM.
Misfire is most likely the plug gap and the other code is because I used HP Tuners to set the enable coolant temp for closed loop operation to 255 degrees which it will never hit.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, October 22, 2009 7:18 AM
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
I will gap the plugs at .030. I just had not got around to it yet. They are the regular NGK TR6 or TR7 whichever one it is that is one step colder than stock. Or in other words the same heat range as what comes with the M45 kit form GM.
Misfire is most likely the plug gap and the other code is because I used HP Tuners to set the enable coolant temp for closed loop operation to 255 degrees which it will never hit.
You must be using the NGK stock number 4177's. They are same heat range that comes with GM charger.
